We have had two of these units. The first one went bad after about a year. It was the switch on the front that was bad on that unit. The second unit is less than six months old and is only brewing a portion of the water that is put in the unit. THESE UNITS ARE JUNK SO WITH ALL THE NEGATIVE USER REVIEWS ON THIS UNIT WE WILL NOT BUY ANOTHER CUSINART EVER OF NONE OF THEIR MODELS. Sometimes Cheaper May Just Be Better!!
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Re: Have had two, both have gone bad!!
These units definitely seem to have more problems than any of the other Cuisinart coffeemakers. With your most recent problem, I would go ahead and brew half a caraffe worth of vinegar through the machine, just like it was coffee. Then run plain water through the unit to clear out the water. These models need to be cleaned with vinegar/water about once a month.
You might have a deeper problem. A hose could have came loose/leaked inside the machine, spilling water over the electronics. If this happened, then it is just a matter of time before it fails again.
If this second machine fails, ask Cuisinart if you can get one of their other coffeemakers instead of this one. I would reccomend a DGB-550BK, DCC-1200BCH, or several others. Unfortunately, they don't have another caraffe-less unit like this one.
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The only possibilities I see here are either the Plug Holder with Fuse Block which sometimes goes bad and periodically will shut down the unit. The other possibility is that the Electronic Card has gone bad. It over-heats and shuts down power.
You have a short in the switch. These units have a 3 year warranty. Call cuisinart 1-800-726-0190 they will replace unit for a $10 shipping charge. Very easy to deal with. If your unit is older that 3 years, try taking switch apart and cleaning and stretching spring.
After replacing the filter in the tank, keep the button pressed; when the indicator light is flashing, then release the button. Also at times, the gears in the brew drive assembly will not complete the cycle to the proper start position for different reasons. Some of the reasons are:
Brew group jammed or blocked. Note: A jammed or blocked brew group can happen when the brew group starts the cycle but doesn’t finish it.
Either one of the micro-switches in the brew drive has gone bad.
Brew drive motor failure.
Broken teeth on either of the brew drive gears.
Dirty brew group, covered by coffee grinds.
Brew group or gears not lubricated.
Connections to the board from brew drive assy., or motor have gone bad
This coffee maker has a hot water reservoir that heats and stores hot water so it can brew coffee faster. Once you fill the reservoir by pouring a potful of cold water into the top, you can turn on the switch at the side of the unit and in about 10 minutes the water in the reservoir will be hot. I usually leave this switch turned on to keep the water in the reservoir hot. The front switch turns on the pot warmer at the front of the unit, so it should be turned off unless you are making coffee or keeping a pot warm. To make a fresh pot, put a filter and ground coffee in the removable filter basket, slide the basket into the unit, place an empty carafe on the warming burner and using a separate container pour fresh water into the filler at the top of the unit. The fresh water displaces the hot water in the reservoir and voila, the coffee carafe starts to fill. The amount of fresh water you added is the amount of coffee you will end up with, less a little bit that might have evaporated if you only make coffee every morning or less often. Most units have a plunger under the filler lid that keeps the fresh water from going in to the hot water reservoir until you close the lid, so close it after pouring in the water. Also, turn off the front switch if the carafe is getting low or empty, as it can get hot enough to crack the carafe. If you're not going to be using the coffee maker for several days, turn off the side switch or unplug the unit to save energy and reduce evaporation from the reservoir. I love mine. It makes great coffee and is much quicker than the drip type.
I went back and deleted all of my information.
I don't know how you got my email.
I got my issue fixed online chat group.
Friendly people that are genuinely interested.
I did not like that I went through entering all my information
AND THEN you say it will cost $$$$.
I might have signed up if you were 'up front'.
Being 'up front' is also a saying we use here a lot, it means honest.
this could be a couple of different problems. 1. the heating element has gone bad (seldom). 2. the drive electronics on the control board have died, which means you need a new control board. (fairly common). 3. the wires connecting the heating element have come loose (was someone inside your device?). 4. the thermastat on the heating element has gone bad (open) and needs replacing. (measure with an ohm meter after disconnecting the connector to the control board). If you decide you want to trash this unit, I'd pay for shipping to have the parts. I am keeping my old (12+ years) machine alive. already replaced 2 control boards. (email firstname.lastname@example.org, i'm located in CA, USA). Hope this helps, stephen
Best suggestion at this time is to have an Authorized SAECO Service Center check your machine. Contact Saeco USA Inc. to located a Service Center near you at 800-933-7876 (toll-free), ask for customer support, or contact SAECO via e-mail at : email@example.com