Question about Splendide 2100XC
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
We had the same problem with our splendide 2100 top loader. If you remove the top cover, you will find 2 circular like black discs (the size of a dime) on the right hand side about 6 inches from the front. You need to push those down (with a very small blunt object) to reset them. Please make sure that you unplug your washer/dryer before you attempt this. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
Remove the top - two screws in the back then slide forward
In the front right top you will see the air box and the terminals for the heater coil along with other wires and sensors. Start the washer on a dry cycle and check the voltage to the heater terminals. You will be looking for 120 AC. If voltage there but no heat the heating element is bad. If no voltage there follow the wires to the overheat switches and check the voltage on the other side of these switches (round devices with two terminals on top). If there is voltage there then the switch has tripped. Unplug the machine. Look for a spot of paint on this switch, scratch it away and you will see a small hole. Insert a strightened paper clip into this hole and push to reset the switch. Re-power and test the results.
No power to these switches probably means a bad circuit board $$$.
Posted on Dec 21, 2009
Symptom: Electric Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block.
The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC.
The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms.
This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord.
Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer.
Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason.
You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation.
If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing.
All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail.
This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH.
When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home.
It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER.
After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer.
This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not.
Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it.
If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely.
I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires.
These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips.
They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.
(HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier).
If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models.
This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component.
NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time.
They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!!
Posted on Sep 18, 2010
"The red light will start flashing along with the pre wash light".
There is a fault code on this.How much time the light blinks.does the light blinks non stop or does it blinks few times then stop blinking then again starts blinking.Exactly how many times the light blinks then pauses then again blinks.
If the Status/Door Lock light,
• Flashes 3-times
• Pauses for 10 seconds
• Then, flashes 3 times
The machine is displaying an "F03" Fault Code.
There is owners manual for your washing machine available.In that the details are provided about the blinking lights.click this link directly:-----
Also click this link for direct manual:---
It has been seen in some cases that.
Prewash light flashing is a fill problem. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this
solution and show your appreciation
A faulty inlet valve or if drain hose is in a stand pipe it could be siphoning. Check the inlet valves to see if one has gone open circuit.you should check:
1. The outlet pipe, for blockages or feeding into a blocked outlet
2. The pump: is something jammed in it?
3. The trap on the bottom of the machine: is it filled up? (Hard work; be careful!) (It is difficult to remove without damaging anything, and put back on, and you have to clean it very thoroughly before refitting)
4. The soap dispenser tray: is it gunked up badly? Wash that mould off!
5. Does the water dribble in? Check the inlet pipes, the filter where they come in, and the water valves in extremity. ---------------------------
If they are fine then its the control board at fault.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation
Posted on Sep 23, 2010
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