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Gas flooding cylinder

I have a 1987 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 today it died out.I towed it to my house and removed the spark plugs and the front cylinders were flooded. bike has been backfiring lately also. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

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I would pull your carbs, clean them and look for wear on your diaphrams and check your floats.

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • vulcan750 Sep 02, 2009

    did you give it throttle while you had the choke on?

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I have a 99 Kawasaki Vulcan classic one car bike why would the bike flood the back spark plugs and put gas in my air filter been trying to figure it out but I need help


Hi, Brandon my guess is you have a faulty spark plug or spark plug wire/cable or ignition coil or wiring to the coil is corrupt, check the ohm reading on your plug wires/cables for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Gary for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi, Anonymous you need "FIVE" things in order for a cylinder to run properly:
1. FUEL: in order to validate your not getting fuel spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner and hit the starter button, if it fires up and runs for a few seconds then you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Multi carb banks should be bench "SYNC"
2. SPARK: remove the spark plug and with it connected to the spark plug cable ground the threads to something metal you should see a bluish white spark if not you have a faulty spark plug, spark plug cable, ignition coil, condenser, CKP, ECM, sensor or the wiring in between.
3. COMPRESSION: you must have at least 80-100 PSI for most bikes, multi-cylinder engines should be within 10-15% of each other if not perform a leak down test you may have a burnt or bent valve or hole in the piston or broken rings.
4. CAM TIMING: confirm your timing marks are aligned to see if the cam chain or adjuster are worn out and the chain has skipped a couple teeth.
5. IGNITION TIMING: on older bikes check to see if your points have not closed up, timing plate has not become loose and confirm with a timing light for proper retard and advance functions, on newer bikes where timing is controlled by an ECM and is nonadjustable check you CKP, TPS, MAP, O2, sensor or its counterpart for integrity.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1997 Kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan spark plug gap


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Front cylinder fouls


try cleaning the carbs, changing plugs, and cleaning the fuel tank. If that doesn't work, it might be the piston rings are getting worn out or you cylinder sleeves need a honing.

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1986 Kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan gas coming out of the exhaust


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plug.
2. Fuel injector stuck open.
3. Carburetor float needle valve, not seating.
4. Carburetor float stuck open.
5. Exhaust valve stuck open.
6. Exhaust valve bent.
7. Fuel valve leaking back through the vacuum line.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Why does my 1995 Kawasaki VN 750 Vulcan have four spark plugs?


Hi, Anonymous twin spark technology is more beneficial than using the single spark technology. Technically the spark plug has a very minute time to react and meet perfect ignition; approximately 1 by 200th of a second in an engine running at 6000 rpm. In that time the spark plug must fire and burn the engine mixture as quickly as possible. Once that cycle is complete, the cylinder must ideally be ready for the expulsion of all the exhaust gases ensuring as little unburned fuel or hydrocarbons as possible. Now the main problem lies in that time the spark plug has to perform its role. It might work well enough in case of a smaller engine where the gas mixture can be evenly spread out in no time for the spark plug to burn for good results. However as the engine size goes up especially as in the case of race cars and performance vehicles, a single spark plug will not have the time to burn through all corners of the chamber. The matter is further complicated by the fact that engines aren't static and the burn must start off at the top dead center and process down to the bottom dead center with the piston descending rapidly.
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Hi, Tony for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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