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Dryer quit and will not restart. after reading other posts I assume it is the thermal relay. Can you tell me where it is located, and how do I get the front panel off? It needs a good cleaning. Thx. Gray.

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  • grayman63 Mar 10, 2009

    That was the problem. Thx for your WISDOM. Gray.

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  • Dryers Master
  • 8,147 Answers

Remove the rear cover and check the duct fuse. It will blow IF the filter housing is clogged with lint or the dryer vent is blocked. WISDOM

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Dryer wont heat, replaced thermal cut off and it worked for maybe5 minutes and then it quit heating and now there is no continuity on the new thermal cutoff...I was wondering if there could be a short


The most likely cause of the thermal fuse blowing out again is either a grounded element or a clogged vent. I am assuming you have an electric dryer. If so, unplug the dryer and find the terminals to the element. Remove one of the wires to the terminals and use an ohmmeter/continuity meter to check between the chassis ground and one of the terminals on the element. You should not read any continuity. If you read a short, then the element is grounding out to the chassis. Replace the element.
If the element is okay, then the vent is probably clogged. After replacing your blown thermal fuse with a good thermal fuse, unhook the vent hose off the back of your dryer and run your dryer through a full cycle. If it doesn't blow the fuse, it's your vent and you'll need to clean it out and make sure no birds built a nest in there. If your thermal fuse still blows, replace all of your thermostats.

Good luck!

Oct 25, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Will not heat


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access them by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 23, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer not heating up


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 22, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirpool LGQ8800JQ1 no heat


The thermal safety is located on the top of the heating element canister and there is a fuse located on the blower assembly. It is about 1.5 inches long and has two small gauge wires going to it. Hope this helps...

Feb 13, 2009 | Whirlpool GGQ8831L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer won't heat


ok you moving in right direction but you jumped a step,,you already checked the thermal cut offf and the operating thermostat,,those where the two on the side of the heater housing,,you should have checked the thermal fuse and the thermistor,,they are on top of the blower wheel housing tuck a lttle to the left,,since you seem that you know what your doing just jump them out starting with the thermal fuse,,,keep me posted on the job

Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer LER5636JQ0 won't turn on


The thermal fuse for your dryer is located behind the rear panel. With the rear panel removed, you can locate the thermal fuse as a small white plastic device located on the blower fan housing on the lower left-hand side (facing from the rear). A resistance reading should indicate close to a short (0 ohms). If the thermal fuse IS defective, the replacement part number is 3392519. You can find all this information at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Bulkhead" heading on the next page. The thermal fuse is listed as item number 7. There's also helpful part locator diagrams to assist in troubleshooting. I hope you find this information helpful. If you need further assistance, please post back and let me know.

Jun 06, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Replace thermal cut out units


This may be a little overkill, but I thought I would try to be thorough.

If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side as you are facing the back of the unit. The Hi-limit thermostat will be the closest to the heating element terminal, while the TCO will be located on the on the opposite end near the top of the heater box housing.

If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side. If you own a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet model, the lower panel is removed by loosening the screws under the bottom edge of the lower panel.
The heating circuits will be on the right-hand side under the drum as facing from the front. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the heating element terminals, while the TCO is located furthest to the back of the dryer on the heater box housing.

The operating thermostat and thermal fuse (if equipped) are usually located on the blower fan housing.

CAUTION: It is recommended that you unplug the dryer BEFORE servicing the inside or cleaning. There are still dangerous voltages present even with the machine turned off.

Symptom:
Dryer Runs, But Does Not Heat:

Suspected Components:


1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.

5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

NOTE: It is HIGHLY recommended to replace the High-Limit Thermostat and TCO at the same time of one or the other is found to be defective.


Dryer Does Not Run At All:


Suspected Components:
1. Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms. NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, the drum light will not come on.
2. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
3. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
4. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
6. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
7. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.


These recommendations for TROUBLESHOOTING are not all inclusive as different manufacturer models vary in components and configuration. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back if you have any further questions.

May 19, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlpool Duet Electric Dryer Model Gew9200


Check the thermal fuse for problem here.Please leave a Rating! Thanx!

Apr 23, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9200L Electric Dryer

5 Answers

Fuses


We have Kenmore Elec Dryer - Model # 8860293, 70 Series. Where is the thermal fuse located? Dryer starts and shuts off in less than 5 seconds.

lantzer@hotmail.com

Mar 08, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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