Question about GE Refrigerators

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I have a GE profile refreigerator model PTS25LBMARWW. It started to defrost in the freezer. I have working knowledge of refrigerators as I completed A/C and refrig. trade school 20 years ago. here is the problem if it was make like they used to with a timer and thermostat and so on I would have already fixed it. I have fixed many including changing compressor on the old R-12 systems. This junk has a circuit board controlling all the funchtions and that is limiting my troubleshooting ablity wih my meters. this is what I know. the compressor is not running. there is no volts at the common and relay run terminal. its acting like it stuck in the defrost mode and not comming back to the cool mode to allow the thermostat to ccyle the compressor back on. This happen last week so I unplugged the box, found the master circuit board and tapped a few relays mounted on the board since there was not much else I could do. I plugged it back in and the compressor started and my amp meter showed it was running. the only other thing is the evap motor has been squealing sometimes then stops squealing, but the fan is blowing and has not fully failed. I'm thinking the circuit board but maybe if the evap fan is not working right it's causing a lock out feature maybe ??? Don't want to buy a expensive board to find out that's not the problem. anyone experts out there on this ?

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  • toddlauren Mar 11, 2009

    Thanks for the info. I had changed the circuit board before I read your advise based on some more troubleshooting. I checked the board for power on the same terminal molex connector you referred to. After determining that it had proper voltage on the line (hot) terminal and did not on the comp or the defr, I figured it had to be the ciruit board. Of course the is always the chance that the T-stat failed , which I am suspecting is a termocouple sending a milli volt signal to the board and the refrigerator and freeze controls might be just a set point device sending a setpoint to the control board. but I really don't know that much about the new components. Just know my box is now working , I purchased the board locally for $149.99 plus tax. It was worth a few extra dollars to not have to wait....thanks for the response


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Make a insulated jumper wire.
Remove the circuit board panel.
Jump the line in side with the compressor terminal.
On the bottom of the control board you will see a molex connector with 3 wires. That is where you will see the 3 terminals.
If the compressor and fan motor come on after the jump.
Replace the control board.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • steve
    steve Mar 11, 2009

    Good for you.


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