Question about Faucets
This is the "Decorative Push Button Drain", #241-405 brushed nickel.
It works fine unless you depress the button to allow water to collect in the basin. When you depress the button to drain the basin, the outflowing water leaks from the seal immediately below the basin. Otherwise it works fine.
The instructions caution against overtightening the locknut (which holds the beveled rubber washer against the bottom of the basin). I believe I was careful to not do so. Again, the leak only occurs after pressing the center button to let the water drain out of the basin. There is no leakage with normal use/running water.
REMOVE THE LOCKNUT AND CHECK FOR A CRACK OR PIN HOLE IN DOWN DRIAN USE A FLASH LITE IN DRIAN TURN OFF ALL LITES TO CHECK PUT LITE IN DRAIN AND CK FOR LITE IN THE DRIAN PIPE
Posted on May 07, 2009
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I started this when the faucet began leaking around the body when the
handle was lifted to use water. I thought this was a regular faucet, but Home
Depot was no help in supplying a repair kit. Fortunately I had the original
manual and called Pegasus. When I described my model number and symptoms, the
lady said the problem was the cartridge, covered under warranty and she would
send me one. The cartridge and a new bonnet arrived a couple of days later.
That was the end of easy.
Changing the cartridge was right at the limit of my patience and skill,
but I won't bore you with all the rabbit trails I explored before final
success. First, it's not obvious how the faucet comes apart; the top
button is threaded rather than clipped as in most faucets and pliers may mar
the finish when you unscrew it. With the button gone, removing the screw
holding the handle was no problem, but I had to resort to a small gear puller
($5 at auto parts store) to remove the handle. I used a longer screw
(1") as a center point but it was not just a matter of popping it loose;
I had to draw the handle the full length before it came off. The cap under the
handle is threaded to the brass bonnet and is unscrewed counter-clockwise. I
had to apply heat and WD-40 alternately to finally get this to loosen and had
actually given up and decided to call the plumber before going back for one
more try after it sat for an hour. The finish on the cap was marred during
removal, but it is not normally visible. With the cap removed the outside
sleeve can be removed by pulling up and rotating; it is not threaded, but is an
O-ring fit to the outside of the control body. Now the bonnet can be unscrewed
from the inside of the control body. There are two flat spots on the upper
threads on the bonnet that allow a crescent wrench to unscrew the bonnet from
the body. Again heat and WD-40 alternating was necessary before it finally
There is no need to loosen the faucet from the counter or remove any
hoses, although I did. It should remain solidly mounted to provide resistance
when unscrewing the cap from the bonnet and the bonnet from the body and
prevent the hoses below from twisting.
Putting it back together was easy; I used Teflon tape on the bonnet threads. I decided to test the faucet after I tightened the bonnet on top of the cartridge, before the cap and sleeve were installed. When I opened the faucet, water sprayed out the back of the body, where the diagram shows the spring and diverter. I did not have any parts for this, but the sleeve has O-rings at top and bottom so I decided to install it and the cap (hand tight). After I did, the spray was stopped (by the sleeve), but it still leaked like it had done at the beginning. I assumed the sleeve was working as well as possible and maybe its O-rings were leaking. But I tightened the cap with pliers which pushes down on the sleeve, and the leak stopped. I don't feel fully comfortable because I don't have an understanding of how everything works, but it's operating normally and not leaking.
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