Question about Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator

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Hotpoint HSS25IFMB WW will not defrost.

3 weeks ago had unit looked at by repair man. Stated that the heater and thermostats were good but the PC board was bad.
I installed new board and now it is doing the same thing again. Had different repair man out today and he says the board is bad.

Anything else I can check on my own before replacing the board again? I already have a new board, just wondering if I should check anything else before instaling it?

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I was having the same problem. I replaced my defrost heater (2 screws and 17 dollars) and it works great now

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

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3 year old side by side hotpoint. 3 months ago freezer frosted up & would not cool. Repair person replaced heater & mother board worked until about 1 month ago. Frosted up again. Repair person...


Hi,
This is the part that is bad....it is cutting off the defrost too soon...

http://www.partselect.com/PS1017716-GE-WR50X10068-Defrost-Thermostat.htm?SourceCode=5&ModelNum=hss25gft

or Click here

heatman101

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A couple weeks ago the refrigerator part quit working, we cleaned the dust out from underneath the refrigerator and defrosted the freezer. It is happening again. Anything we can do before we call a...


Good day,
The auto defrost system has had a failure. It is made up of 3 parts.
The timer which is located in the top of the fresh food compartment, and the defrost thermostat and main heater which are located behind the rear wall in the freezer section.
To test the timer, there is a slot behind the main controls where you can insert a small screw driver and advance it into the defrost cycle. It will only turn clockwise. With the machine running turn it until the machine shuts off. Wait 35 plus minutes.
If it turns the machine back on, it's O.K. if not replace.
The other 2 items are in the freezer section behind the back panel. The defrost thermostat is a 1" round disk clipped to the top of the coil. It can be tested for continuity, but must not allowed to warm up.
It should read zero ohms. If it reads infinity (no resistance) replace.
Lastly, the main heater which runs along the bottom of the coil.
It should test at 35 ohms or less. If it reads infinity, replace.
In order of frequency of failure. it is as follows.
1. Defrost thermostat.
2. Defrost timer.
3. Main heater.
Here are a few pictures of the items I've described.


c65a001.jpg

9a4042e.jpg
As well, here is an excellent tutorial on defrost systems.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml

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The self defrosing fridge freezer is freezing and leaking inside of fridge, 3 weeks ago I melted ice in freezer and drain with hair dryer, worked for 3 weeks, now freezes agin?


You have a problem with the defrost system. There 3 components... heater, thermostat, and timer or adaptive defrost control depending how old your refrig is. Check heater and thermostat( located on the evapotator coils) with an ohm meter. The heater will have some resistance and the thermostat will be closed(must be cold). If these check good replace timer or adaptive control.

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1 Answer

I have a Hotpoint HSS25IFMD WW sise by side


A thermistor is a 2" torpedo looking piece with 2 wires attached to it . The defrost bimetal , a 1" round aluminum piece , snapped onto the coils , with 2 wires , should be replaced when replaceing the heater . This bimetal could be the problem . To test the defrost system , remove the main control board cover . The blue plug with 3 wires to it needs to be connected . Looking at the plug , the wireing will look like this : l l l . Lets call the terminals 1 2 3 . Useing a piece of insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into terminal 2 and the other end into terminal 3 . The heater will come on if both the heater AND bimetal are good . If you put a new heater in and it wont come on , and you do this test , then the bimetal has to be bad . If your terminology is correct , you have 2 thermisters in the freezer . One on top of the coils ( evaporator sensor ) and one at the bottom by the drain pan ( freezer temp sensor ) . Wouldn't hurt to replace both if you replaced one .

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1 Answer

Hotpoint CTX21DA defrost heater not working


Heater coil can be checked with a continuity meter, just be sure to unplug the unit first. Before you do anything, locate the defrost timer which is under the control panel in the fridge at the top in the back. There is a little white plastic plug cover a small hole, remove that and you will see the manual advance device. You can only turn it one way due to its design, so using a flat bladed screwdriver that fits the device turn it slowly until you hear a click. then listen in the freezer for sizzling noises as the heater warms up. If you hear the noise you will need to replace the defrost timer, part is available on line. If it doesn't activate the timer then check the continuity on the heater element and the defrost thermostat. (You will have to cut the wires on the thermostat to accomplish this) and check it for continuity. The thermostat needs to be frozen to read properly otherwise it will appear to be open so leave it in a freezer for a bit then check it out. all the parts are available online, just google for refrigerator parts and look for your model.

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Freezing up


Check Defrost timer (clockworks type), defrost heater wire (for open circuit) and defrost heater thermostat (stuck in run position).

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Freezer won't defrost


savey73,
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa
supertechks

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