3 weeks ago had unit looked at by repair man. Stated that the heater and thermostats were good but the PC board was bad.
I installed new board and now it is doing the same thing again. Had different repair man out today and he says the board is bad.
Anything else I can check on my own before replacing the board again? I already have a new board, just wondering if I should check anything else before instaling it?
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I am pretty sure the model number you are referring to are HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW This model has no defrost timer like the typical defrost timer. The defrost time is determined by the Motherboard. If you are having defrost problems with your model it is most likely the defrost heater causing the problems. The defrost heater is part=> WR51X10055 Defrost Heater
Good day, The auto defrost system has had a failure. It is made up of 3 parts. The timer which is located in the top of the fresh food compartment, and the defrost thermostat and main heater which are located behind the rear wall in the freezer section. To test the timer, there is a slot behind the main controls where you can insert a small screw driver and advance it into the defrost cycle. It will only turn clockwise. With the machine running turn it until the machine shuts off. Wait 35 plus minutes. If it turns the machine back on, it's O.K. if not replace. The other 2 items are in the freezer section behind the back panel. The defrost thermostat is a 1" round disk clipped to the top of the coil. It can be tested for continuity, but must not allowed to warm up. It should read zero ohms. If it reads infinity (no resistance) replace. Lastly, the main heater which runs along the bottom of the coil. It should test at 35 ohms or less. If it reads infinity, replace. In order of frequency of failure. it is as follows. 1. Defrost thermostat. 2. Defrost timer. 3. Main heater. Here are a few pictures of the items I've described.
As well, here is an excellent tutorial on defrost systems.
You have a problem with the defrost system. There 3 components... heater, thermostat, and timer or adaptive defrost control depending how old your refrig is. Check heater and thermostat( located on the evapotator coils) with an ohm meter. The heater will have some resistance and the thermostat will be closed(must be cold). If these check good replace timer or adaptive control.
A thermistor is a 2" torpedo looking piece with 2 wires attached to it . The defrost bimetal , a 1" round aluminum piece , snapped onto the coils , with 2 wires , should be replaced when replaceing the heater . This bimetal could be the problem . To test the defrost system , remove the main control board cover . The blue plug with 3 wires to it needs to be connected . Looking at the plug , the wireing will look like this : l l l . Lets call the terminals 1 2 3 . Useing a piece of insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into terminal 2 and the other end into terminal 3 . The heater will come on if both the heater AND bimetal are good . If you put a new heater in and it wont come on , and you do this test , then the bimetal has to be bad . If your terminology is correct , you have 2 thermisters in the freezer . One on top of the coils ( evaporator sensor ) and one at the bottom by the drain pan ( freezer temp sensor ) . Wouldn't hurt to replace both if you replaced one .
Heater coil can be checked with a continuity meter, just be sure to unplug the unit first. Before you do anything, locate the defrost timer which is under the control panel in the fridge at the top in the back. There is a little white plastic plug cover a small hole, remove that and you will see the manual advance device. You can only turn it one way due to its design, so using a flat bladed screwdriver that fits the device turn it slowly until you hear a click. then listen in the freezer for sizzling noises as the heater warms up. If you hear the noise you will need to replace the defrost timer, part is available on line. If it doesn't activate the timer then check the continuity on the heater element and the defrost thermostat. (You will have to cut the wires on the thermostat to accomplish this) and check it for continuity. The thermostat needs to be frozen to read properly otherwise it will appear to be open so leave it in a freezer for a bit then check it out. all the parts are available online, just google for refrigerator parts and look for your model.
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa supertechks