Question about Kohler K-8803-VS Duostrainer sink basket strainer, Vibrant Stainless

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Plastic coated sink protectors - rubber feet deteriorated

I have 2 (one for each side) in sink wire (white plastic coated) scratch protector - rubber foot bumpers have deteriorated and are falling off.... how can I replace????

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You can get a product called Plasti-Dip at your hardware store. It is the stuff used to plastc coat tools.

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

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Call Kohler Plumbing customer service: 1.800.456.4537, choose option 2 for service parts.

Tell them you need a "Feet Replacement Kit" for whatever model name/number and color your basement rack is. Prices run about $1 per piece plus shipping.

Posted on Jan 04, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Can the screen cover on a A Fitbit HR Charge be replaced


It can!

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Best screen protector brand for Charge 2. - Fitbit Community

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Sep 2, 2016 - Wendy ' California. Retired Classic, Ultra, Charge,Charge HR. In use One, Charge 2, Surge, Blaze, Alta and Aria ' Windows 10 ' Android Moto ...

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Buy FitBit Charge & FitBit Charge HR Watch Front INVISIBLE Screen Protector (Front Shield included) Military Grade Protection Exclusive to ACE CASE: Screen ... screen cover on Fitbit HR Charge Google Search

Nov 16, 2016 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

Can the screen be replaced on a fitbit charge hr


(6-Pack) EZGuardZ Screen Protector for FitBit Charge HR (Ultra Clear ...

https://www.amazon.ca/6-Pack-EZGuardZ-Screen-Protector-FitBit/dp/B00SVW2DPO
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Pack of 6 Brand New EZGuardZ™ Screen Protectors; Precision Cut for your FitBit Charge HR, NO Cutting Necessary; No worrying about sticky residue; Thin, ...

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Jun 21, 2015 - If you have a Fitbit Charge HR, I highly recommend getting a screen protector. The plastic screen is not strong at all, and it is also very easy to.

Best screen protector brand for Charge 2. - Fitbit Community

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  1. Cached
Sep 2, 2016 - Wendy ' California. Retired Classic, Ultra, Charge,Charge HR. In use One, Charge 2, Surge, Blaze, Alta and Aria ' Windows 10 ' Android Moto ...

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https://www.amazon.com/XtremeGuardTM-Screen-Protector-FitBit-Charge/.../B00SV...
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Buy XtremeGuardTM Screen Protector for FitBit Charge HR (Ultra Clear): Screen Protectors - Amazon.com ? FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases.

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https://www.amazon.com/INVISIBLE-Protector-included-Protection.../B00UMAXNJS
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Buy FitBit Charge & FitBit Charge HR Watch Front INVISIBLE Screen Protector (Front Shield included) Military Grade Protection Exclusive to ACE CASE: Screen ...

Nov 16, 2016 | Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

How to hot wire fuel pump for 97


How to
Hot Wire Your Fuel Pump With a Relay in the Trunk




Terry Littleton - tlnfm@peganet.com


You Will Need

Get 15 ft 10 gauge wire, 3 ft 14 gauge wire, and a Bosch 4 or 5
prong 30 amp relay. Any place that installs car alarms should have a Bosch
relay. Get a heavy 10/12 gauge wire 30 amp fuse holder. They can be found at
auto parts stores and come in the old glass or new plastic spade type fuses.
Make sure it is heavy wire and not like most that use like 14/16 gauge wire. You
will need 2-10 gauge butt connectors, 1-10 to 16 gauge butt connector, 2-10
gauge female spade connectors, 2-14 gauge female spade connectors, 1-10 gauge
and 1-14 gauge ring connector. Soldering gun, wire
protector.

Procedure



  1. Disconnect battery. Put a ring connector on one end of the 10
    gauge fuse wire and attach that to the post at the rear of the alternator. Run
    it over to the front of the drivers side valve cover and attach to a piece of
    ten gauge wire that you will run to the back of the car. I put mine inside the
    car and it was actually easier.



  2. Run it through the hole next to the powermaster where all the
    wires go through the firewall. I routed it over behind the emer brake pedal,
    down behind that kick panel, took off the sill plate and put it inside the
    plastic wire protector (it does come open, just a pain to figure it out). Take
    out back seat and run it from sill up to opening that goes into the trunk. There
    are other wires that do the same thing, just follow them. Bring wire down to the
    hinge support. There is already a hole right there to put a bolt and nut through
    to mount the relay. I had a radioshack relay but it broke so I got a
    Bosch
    and it seems a lot sturdier. Good choice.

  3. Just a word of caution. Follow the wires down to the side of the
    trunk floor. The copper colored wire is the one to attach the trigger wire to.
    It looks like bare copper wire but is actually coated. The coating is so hard, a
    regular scotch lock wouldn\'t make contack on mine, so I cut out a half inch
    section of the insulation and soldered the trigger wire (a small piece of 14
    gauge from the relay prong 86) to there. I wrapped it in tape and put corrugated
    wire guard over it.



  4. The ground wire from the relay (a small piece of 14 gauge from
    prong 85) can go to the bolt hole you use to mount it to the hinge support. Just
    clean off the paint first. Then hook up the 10 gauge wire from the alternator to
    post 30 on the relay. The remaining prong on a 4 prong relay is the "Power Out"
    that will feed the alternator voltage to the pump(s). If you have a 5 prong
    relay the two remaining prongs should be labeled 87 and 87a. One is the "Power
    Out" when relay is energized, the other supplies power when the relay is not
    energized. Use a test light to determine.



  5. Run the remaining heavy gauge wire from the "Power Out" prong
    (when energized) from the relay through the rear of the trunk to the fuel pump.
    Notice the plastic cover over the BIG rubber grommet that takes all those other
    wires from the trunk out under the back of the car? Forget about getting your
    new ten gauge wire through there. Just drill a hole big enough to run the wire
    through covered with some corrugated protector. I put mine right next to the
    rubber plug. Then run the ten gauge wire to the pump.



  6. The 3 wires going to the sender/pump are Black-Ground,
    Pink-Fuel Level Sender, and Brown/White Stripe-Fuel Pump motor. Cut the
    Brown/White stripe wire after the connector on the fuel pump side and attach the
    new ten gauge wire. Leave enough to reconnect stock later if desired. Put a butt
    connector on the old cut wire so it doesn\'t short on anything. I wire tied stuff
    up neat and used wire protector. If you have an external pump, you can run
    another piece of 10 gauge to it for power from where it splices into the
    original pump wire.



  7. Now the wire coming through the firewall goes over behind the
    drivers valve cover and along the back edge of it under the EGR tubing in wire
    protector and splices into the other fuse wire from the
    alternator.



  8. When you turn on the ignition, you should hear the fuel pump
    prime. The only problem I had was in the connection of the trigger wire to that
    copper colored wire in the trunk like I mentioned above.

Hope this isn\'t confusing. I did it this way to keep things neat
in the engine compartment.

Jun 26, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My screen on my mobile phone is scratched quite alot. Can I replace the screen and get a suitable cover to prevent this happening again.


Hi,
Once the screen is scratched there is no easy or affordable way to replace it...the best thing to do is to install a plastic screen protector as soon as you buy a new phone... they cost a few bucks, but are well worth the price...
Many popular phones have screen protectors made in exactly the right size for the phone...but there also are generic protectors that you can easily cut to fit any phone...

Be very careful and patient when installing the screen protector so that you do not get bubbles under the plastic...have a small piece of plastic or a Popsicle stick handy to smooth out the protector as you install it.

heatman101

Jun 24, 2011 | Nokia C3 Cell Phone

1 Answer

No power to Dyson Animal


Hi There,

I'm almost 100% positive that the cord on your Dyson DC07 Animal has shorted out and needs to be replaced. Usually what causes this spark, and cord failure is when the cord is pulled out of the wall to hard. I have to admit that I'm guilty of doing this same thing. If I'm on the other side of the room from the plug, and I need to change plugs, I have been known to try and swing the cord out of the plug, and I have myself burned through a cord or two. The spark is usually caused when the wires inside of the plug touch each other, or short circuit.

No worries, this is not an expensive, or difficult repair to do. Here's what you'll need in order to complete this repair:

- T15 Torx Bit Screw Driver
- Dyson DC07 Power Cord For All DC07 Models, Part 905449.
- A 2mm or Smaller Flat Head Screwdriver (width of the tip)
- Needle Nose Pliers
- Patience (haha)

IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE!

Step 1. First thing you'll want to do is to unwrap the cord from the machine, and remove the handle from the upright part, then slide the hose all the way down the wand, and remove the hose from the handle assembly completely and set it aside. Also remove the dust bin assembly completely from the machine as well.


86bdf5c.jpg

Step 2. Once you've remove the handle from the machine I find it easier to work on if you lay the vacuum on it's back, with the switch button facing upwards. Now remove the T15 Torx bit screw that is directly below the switch actuator. I have circled the location of this screw in the picture below:


080ce87.jpg

Step 3: After you have taken off the screw, you're doing to need to remove the switch box housing from the vacuum that the screw was securing. Simply use your flat head screw driver, and pry the two small arms upwards. Be careful when prying, the plastic components on Dyson vacuums are really cheap quality plastic, and I can't tell you how many times I have seen these plastic parts break. Here's a picture of the location of where you should pry the switching off:


357199b.jpg
Here's what the vacuum should look like after the switch housing has been removed:


eb76162.jpg

Step 4. Use your needle nose plyers to remove the terminals from both of the switch poles. Also be careful when removing these terminals, don't force it or it will break the pole right off of the switch, and you'll then have to replace the switch along with the cord. Also you'll need to remove the two white wires that are connected together apart, also using your needle nose plyers.


0ebca47.jpg

Step 5. After you've removed the two terminals connected to the switch, as well as the two white wires that were connected, follow the electrical cord up until the point that it enters the vacuum cleaner to the rubber cord protector. Lift straight up on this cord protecter to remove it from the vacuum.


90104f6.jpg

Step 6. You'll have to now slide the cord out through the cord protector so that you may install the protector on your new cord. Unfortunately as you'll see, your new cord does not come with the plastic terminal protectors that are on the end of the wires, so you'll need to take off these plastic ends on both the black, and the white wires that come from the cord. The other wire that you see in there that has a white wire with no plastic cover, and a black wire that does have the plastic terminal. There's no need to remove the plastic terminal from the wire that runs down into your motor, just leave these alone. If you look closely at these plastic terminal covers, you'll see that one side of them have two little ridges on the inside, also that the bottom is flat, and the top rises upwards on one end. To remove these plastic parts, use your 2mm flat head screwdriver and insert it through the top part that has the two ridges on the indside. While your screw driver is in as far as it will go, lift upwards away from the wire while pulling out the wire at the same time. Repeat this on the other wire as well.


5d505de.jpg
his is how the wires look like without the terminals:


d0ba44f.jpg
Step 7. After remove the plastic terminal covers from the wires, pull the cord through the rubber cord protector and remove your old cord. Open your new cord, and now you'll have to feed the two wires through the cord protector. Simply push the cord through the ribbed end of the cord protector. You normally can push the cord hard enough so that the ends of the wires will come out the other end fairly easy. If the wires don't come out, use your needle nose plyers to pull the metal ends of the wires through the rubber cord protector.

Step 8. Reconnect the wires to the switch, as well as connecting the two white wires together. Here's how the wiring should look like when done properly:

2a63631.jpg
Step 9. After reconnecting the wires to the switch, and to the other white wire, you'll need to put the switch back in place, along with the cords, and the cord proector. You can see little channels that the cords actually sit in to keep them from pulling out. Place both the wire on the bottom that goes to the motor, as well as the electrical cord into these channels. The two white wires that are connected together go to the left of the switch. Here's how it should look like when you're finished:


df00511.jpg

Simply put the switch housing cover back over the switch and cords, and screw the Torx bit back in, and then test the vacuum to make sure that the cord works.

I hope that this repair was helpful to you with fixing the cord on your Dyson DC07. If you have any questions about this repair, or need further help on replacing the cord, please use the Clarification Request, or leave a comment on this repair and I'll be more then happy to help you further. If this was helpful to you, please be sure to rate the review helpful by clicking the thumbs up icons in the top right hand corner. Again, if you ever need any supplies for your Dyson, we do carry most parts and accessories on our site under our Dyson Parts Section .

Thank you,

Chris J.
GoVacuum.com

Apr 15, 2010 | Dyson DC07 Animal Bagless Upright Cyclonic...

1 Answer

Need to reclace power cord


Greetings,

I have gone ahead and taken pictures of how to change the cord on a Dyson DC07 upright. Here's what you'll need to have handy in order to complete this repair:

- T15 Torx Bit Screw Driver
- Dyson DC07 Power Cord For All DC07 Models, Part 905449.
- A 2mm or Smaller Flat Head Screwdriver (width of the tip)
- Needle Nose Plyers
- Patience (haha)

The cord above is actually a link back to our site if you have yet to purchase your cord. We carry most every Dyson part.

IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOUR VACUUM CLEANER IS UNPLUGGED BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE!

Step 1. First thing you'll want to do is to unwrap the cord from the machine, and remove the handle from the upright part, then slide the hose all the way down the wand, and remove the hose from the handle assembly completely and set it aside. Also remove the dust bin assembly completely from the machine as well.


86bdf5c.jpg
Step 2. Once you've remove the handle from the machine I find it easier to work on if you lay vacuum on it's back, with the switch button facing upwards. Now remove the T15 Torx bit screw that is directly below the switch actuator. I have circled the location of this screw in the picture below:


080ce87.jpg
Step 3: After you have taken off the screw, you're doing to need to remove the switch box housing from the vacuum that the screw was securing. Simply use your flat head screw driver, and pry the two small arms upwards. Be careful when prying, the plastic components on Dyson vacuums are really cheap quality plastic, and I can't tell you how many times I have seen these plastic parts break. Here's a picture of the location of where you should pry the switching off:


357199b.jpg
Here's what the vacuum should look like after the switch housing has been removed:


eb76162.jpg
Step 4. Use your needle nose plyers to remove the terminals from both of the switch poles. Also be careful when removing these terminals, don't force it or it will break the pole right off of the switch, and you'll then have to replace the switch along with the cord. Also you'll need to remove the two white wires that are connected together apart, also using your needle nose plyers.


0ebca47.jpg
Step 5. After you've removed the two terminals connected to the switch, as well as the two white wires that were connected, follow the electrical cord up until the point that it enters the vacuum cleaner to the rubber cord protector. Lift straight up on this cord protecter to remove it from the vacuum.


90104f6.jpg
Step 6. You'll have to now slide the cord out through the cord protector so that you may install the protector on your new cord. Unfortunately as you'll see, your new cord does not come with the plastic terminal protectors that are on the end of the wires, so you'll need to take off these plastic ends on both the black, and the white wires that come from the cord. The other wire that you see in there that has a white wire with no plastic cover, and a black wire that does have the plastic terminal. There's no need to remove the plastic terminal from the wire that runs down into your motor, just leave these alone. If you look closely at these plastic terminal covers, you'll see that one side of them have two little ridges on the inside, also that the bottom is flat, and the top rises upwards on one end. To remove these plastic parts, use your 2mm flat head screwdriver and insert it through the top part that has the two ridges on the indside. While your screw driver is in as far as it will go, lift upwards away from the wire while pulling out the wire at the same time. Repeat this on the other wire as well.


5d505de.jpg
This is how the wires look like without the terminals:


d0ba44f.jpg
Step 7. After remove the plastic terminal covers from the wires, pull the cord through the rubber cord protector and remove your old cord. Open your new cord, and now you'll have to feed the two wires through the cord protector. Simply push the cord through the ribbed end of the cord protector. You normally can push the cord hard enough so that the ends of the wires will come out the other end fairly easy. If the wires don't come out, use your needle nose plyers to pull the metal ends of the wires through the rubber cord protector.

Step 8. Reconnect the wires to the switch, as well as connecting the two white wires together. Here's how the wiring should look like when done properly:


2a63631.jpg
Step 9. After reconnecting the wires to the switch, and to the other white wire, you'll need to put the switch back in place, along with the cords, and the cord proector. You can see little channels that the cords actually sit in to keep them from pulling out. Place both the wire on the bottom that goes to the motor, as well as the electrical cord into these channels. The two white wires that are connected together go to the left of the switch. Here's how it should look like when you're finished:


df00511.jpg

Simply put the switch housing cover back over the switch and cords, and screw the Torx bit back in, and then test the vacuum to make sure that the cord works.

I hope that this repair was helpful to you with fixing the cord on your Dyson DC07. If you have any questions about this repair, or need further help on replacing the cord, please use the Clarification Request, or leave a comment on this repair and I'll be more then happy to help you further. If this was helpful to you, please be sure to rate the review helpful by clicking the thumbs up incon in the top right hand corner. Again, if you ever need any supplies for your Dyson, we do carry most parts and accessories on our site under our Dyson Parts Section .

Thank you,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

Apr 03, 2010 | Dyson DC07 Animal Bagless Upright Cyclonic...

1 Answer

Do you refurbish your head sets. The rubber ear protectors & the rubber in the head bar has deteriorated. Thanks Stan Jackson


You should be able to easily obtain replacement ear protectors from the manufacturer and also replacement headband covers.

Oct 05, 2009 | Radio Communications

3 Answers

Screen Protectors


When you apply the screen protector, try to flatten it out with a CC as you apply it.

Sep 13, 2005 | Dell Axim X5 Pocket PC

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