Plastic coated sink protectors - rubber feet deteriorated

Of course you can do it with a screen protector.
The Guide Of Reset Fitbit Charge HR Complete Guide

How to
Hot Wire Your Fuel Pump With a Relay in the Trunk



Terry Littleton - t[email protected]


You Will Need

Get 15 ft 10 gauge wire, 3 ft 14 gauge wire, and a Bosch 4 or 5
prong 30 amp relay. Any place that installs car alarms should have a Bosch
relay. Get a heavy 10/12 gauge wire 30 amp fuse holder. They can be found at
auto parts stores and come in the old glass or new plastic spade type fuses.
Make sure it is heavy wire and not like most that use like 14/16 gauge wire. You
will need 2-10 gauge butt connectors, 1-10 to 16 gauge butt connector, 2-10
gauge female spade connectors, 2-14 gauge female spade connectors, 1-10 gauge
and 1-14 gauge ring connector. Soldering gun, wire
protector.

Procedure

1. Disconnect battery. Put a ring connector on one end of the 10
   gauge fuse wire and attach that to the post at the rear of the alternator. Run
   it over to the front of the drivers side valve cover and attach to a piece of
   ten gauge wire that you will run to the back of the car. I put mine inside the
   car and it was actually easier.
   
   
   


2. Run it through the hole next to the powermaster where all the
   wires go through the firewall. I routed it over behind the emer brake pedal,
   down behind that kick panel, took off the sill plate and put it inside the
   plastic wire protector (it does come open, just a pain to figure it out). Take
   out back seat and run it from sill up to opening that goes into the trunk. There
   are other wires that do the same thing, just follow them. Bring wire down to the
   hinge support. There is already a hole right there to put a bolt and nut through
   to mount the relay. I had a radioshack relay but it broke so I got a
   Bosch
   and it seems a lot sturdier. Good choice.
   


3. Just a word of caution. Follow the wires down to the side of the
   trunk floor. The copper colored wire is the one to attach the trigger wire to.
   It looks like bare copper wire but is actually coated. The coating is so hard, a
   regular scotch lock wouldn\'t make contack on mine, so I cut out a half inch
   section of the insulation and soldered the trigger wire (a small piece of 14
   gauge from the relay prong 86) to there. I wrapped it in tape and put corrugated
   wire guard over it.
   
   
   


4. The ground wire from the relay (a small piece of 14 gauge from
   prong 85) can go to the bolt hole you use to mount it to the hinge support. Just
   clean off the paint first. Then hook up the 10 gauge wire from the alternator to
   post 30 on the relay. The remaining prong on a 4 prong relay is the "Power Out"
   that will feed the alternator voltage to the pump(s). If you have a 5 prong
   relay the two remaining prongs should be labeled 87 and 87a. One is the "Power
   Out" when relay is energized, the other supplies power when the relay is not
   energized. Use a test light to determine.
   
   
   


5. Run the remaining heavy gauge wire from the "Power Out" prong
   (when energized) from the relay through the rear of the trunk to the fuel pump.
   Notice the plastic cover over the BIG rubber grommet that takes all those other
   wires from the trunk out under the back of the car? Forget about getting your
   new ten gauge wire through there. Just drill a hole big enough to run the wire
   through covered with some corrugated protector. I put mine right next to the
   rubber plug. Then run the ten gauge wire to the pump.
   
   
   


6. The 3 wires going to the sender/pump are Black-Ground,
   Pink-Fuel Level Sender, and Brown/White Stripe-Fuel Pump motor. Cut the
   Brown/White stripe wire after the connector on the fuel pump side and attach the
   new ten gauge wire. Leave enough to reconnect stock later if desired. Put a butt
   connector on the old cut wire so it doesn\'t short on anything. I wire tied stuff
   up neat and used wire protector. If you have an external pump, you can run
   another piece of 10 gauge to it for power from where it splices into the
   original pump wire.
   
   
   


7. Now the wire coming through the firewall goes over behind the
   drivers valve cover and along the back edge of it under the EGR tubing in wire
   protector and splices into the other fuse wire from the
   alternator.
   
   
   


8. When you turn on the ignition, you should hear the fuel pump
   prime. The only problem I had was in the connection of the trigger wire to that
   copper colored wire in the trunk like I mentioned above.

Hope this isn\'t confusing. I did it this way to keep things neat
in the engine compartment.

Hi,
Once the screen is scratched there is no easy or affordable way to replace it...the best thing to do is to install a plastic screen protector as soon as you buy a new phone... they cost a few bucks, but are well worth the price...
Many popular phones have screen protectors made in exactly the right size for the phone...but there also are generic protectors that you can easily cut to fit any phone...

Be very careful and patient when installing the screen protector so that you do not get bubbles under the plastic...have a small piece of plastic or a Popsicle stick handy to smooth out the protector as you install it.

heatman101

Greetings,

I have gone ahead and taken pictures of how to change the cord on a Dyson DC07 upright. Here's what you'll need to have handy in order to complete this repair:

- T15 Torx Bit Screw Driver
- Dyson DC07 Power Cord For All DC07 Models, Part 905449.
- A 2mm or Smaller Flat Head Screwdriver (width of the tip)
- Needle Nose Plyers
- Patience (haha)

The cord above is actually a link back to our site if you have yet to purchase your cord. We carry most every Dyson part.

IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOUR VACUUM CLEANER IS UNPLUGGED BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE!

Step 1. First thing you'll want to do is to unwrap the cord from the machine, and remove the handle from the upright part, then slide the hose all the way down the wand, and remove the hose from the handle assembly completely and set it aside. Also remove the dust bin assembly completely from the machine as well.



Step 2. Once you've remove the handle from the machine I find it easier to work on if you lay vacuum on it's back, with the switch button facing upwards. Now remove the T15 Torx bit screw that is directly below the switch actuator. I have circled the location of this screw in the picture below:



Step 3: After you have taken off the screw, you're doing to need to remove the switch box housing from the vacuum that the screw was securing. Simply use your flat head screw driver, and pry the two small arms upwards. Be careful when prying, the plastic components on Dyson vacuums are really cheap quality plastic, and I can't tell you how many times I have seen these plastic parts break. Here's a picture of the location of where you should pry the switching off:



Here's what the vacuum should look like after the switch housing has been removed:



Step 4. Use your needle nose plyers to remove the terminals from both of the switch poles. Also be careful when removing these terminals, don't force it or it will break the pole right off of the switch, and you'll then have to replace the switch along with the cord. Also you'll need to remove the two white wires that are connected together apart, also using your needle nose plyers.



Step 5. After you've removed the two terminals connected to the switch, as well as the two white wires that were connected, follow the electrical cord up until the point that it enters the vacuum cleaner to the rubber cord protector. Lift straight up on this cord protecter to remove it from the vacuum.



Step 6. You'll have to now slide the cord out through the cord protector so that you may install the protector on your new cord. Unfortunately as you'll see, your new cord does not come with the plastic terminal protectors that are on the end of the wires, so you'll need to take off these plastic ends on both the black, and the white wires that come from the cord. The other wire that you see in there that has a white wire with no plastic cover, and a black wire that does have the plastic terminal. There's no need to remove the plastic terminal from the wire that runs down into your motor, just leave these alone. If you look closely at these plastic terminal covers, you'll see that one side of them have two little ridges on the inside, also that the bottom is flat, and the top rises upwards on one end. To remove these plastic parts, use your 2mm flat head screwdriver and insert it through the top part that has the two ridges on the indside. While your screw driver is in as far as it will go, lift upwards away from the wire while pulling out the wire at the same time. Repeat this on the other wire as well.



This is how the wires look like without the terminals:



Step 7. After remove the plastic terminal covers from the wires, pull the cord through the rubber cord protector and remove your old cord. Open your new cord, and now you'll have to feed the two wires through the cord protector. Simply push the cord through the ribbed end of the cord protector. You normally can push the cord hard enough so that the ends of the wires will come out the other end fairly easy. If the wires don't come out, use your needle nose plyers to pull the metal ends of the wires through the rubber cord protector.

Step 8. Reconnect the wires to the switch, as well as connecting the two white wires together. Here's how the wiring should look like when done properly:



Step 9. After reconnecting the wires to the switch, and to the other white wire, you'll need to put the switch back in place, along with the cords, and the cord proector. You can see little channels that the cords actually sit in to keep them from pulling out. Place both the wire on the bottom that goes to the motor, as well as the electrical cord into these channels. The two white wires that are connected together go to the left of the switch. Here's how it should look like when you're finished:




Simply put the switch housing cover back over the switch and cords, and screw the Torx bit back in, and then test the vacuum to make sure that the cord works.

I hope that this repair was helpful to you with fixing the cord on your Dyson DC07. If you have any questions about this repair, or need further help on replacing the cord, please use the Clarification Request, or leave a comment on this repair and I'll be more then happy to help you further. If this was helpful to you, please be sure to rate the review helpful by clicking the thumbs up incon in the top right hand corner. Again, if you ever need any supplies for your Dyson, we do carry most parts and accessories on our site under our Dyson Parts Section .

Thank you,

Chris J.
GoVacuum

You should be able to easily obtain replacement ear protectors from the manufacturer and also replacement headband covers.

online.

Hello godom, It will depend on how bad is the scratch. For deeper scratches there isn't no fix. For smaller ones there is a specially made scrach fixing paste or something like this, that may be found in some computer stores or electronic/phone service centers. PLEASE NOTE ! Your display is a touchscreen type. The top part of your display - the one you touch, is not made of glass or plastic but a kind of polymer acrilic or similar based materials. Most scrach fixes work and are designed for plastic or glass surfaces. Please instruct or remind this to the person that will attempt the fix. Otherwise it can damage the touchscreen or reduce it's brightness or sharpness. Hope this helps.

When you apply the screen protector, try to flatten it out with a CC as you apply it.