The car recently was running rough, and stalled a few times. Then it stalled and wouldn't start again. I checked the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail and had no pressure, so I changed the fuel filter. This didn't fix the problem. I then ran voltage to the fuel pump prime jumper by the fuel plump relay, and the fuel pump engaged resulting in full pressure at the rail. I replaced the fuel pump relay thinking that it was the reason the fuel pump wasn't engaging, but it didn't fix the problem. What engages the fuel pump relay on this car? Not sure what I should try next?
SOURCE: starts then quits
Was there fuel pressure before you changed everything? It could also be the pressure regulator sticking or bad. When you crank it over and let off the key you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds and then shut off. If it is doing that then I would be looking to see if you have likes hooked up wrong at the back of the engine or try replacing the pressure regulator.
SOURCE: starts then quits
Try the ignition control module located under the distributor cap $30 - $60. This is one of two parts on this truck that will cause it to not run or shut down after running for only a short time. The other is the fuel pump I think it is safe to rule that out as your problem
SOURCE: STALLING PROBLEM TURNED INTO NO START 1990 MB 300 SL
hello,good day,first we are in fuel side,better to install a fuel gauge,to determine the right pressure, is not mention your fuel pump relay,this should also check,some occasion the power supply is missing,now if all is in order (fuel side) then your switching unit(transistor box) need tobe check,assuming your engine is 103 engine,ty
SOURCE: 1995 sonoma no fuel to the injectors
this is a common problem if you cam or crank sensor dont read the signal it wont pressurize the tank its a safty thing
SOURCE: Fuel pump on '95 cutlass ciera
There should be a pressure regulator in the circuit path to stop the pump once you have the proper pressure.
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