Question about Whirlpool LSQ8000 Top Load Washer

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The tub is very loose and moves all about, even though I took it apart and noticed the pins and cotter pins had come out and I replaced all three?

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Not a solution but if the machine is "Oldish" or has had heavy use, it sounds like the tub bearings are worn.
This may have even worn the bearings while the cotter pins were out.

Very expensive to repair.

Get quotes and then you may consider the cost of repair against buying a new machine.

Sorry I couldn't be of much help.


Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Suspension plate


Hi,

The suspension plate should be loose and float between the frame and base. The pin you saw was a shipping pin, they usually are caught in a little plastic cup attached to the base but sometimes fall to the floor, this is normal too. The tub being loose is normal for the top, it is held down by the springs below the tub but nothing on top. By a loud noise, what kind of noise is it? If it is a very loud ratcheting noise when it slows down then the basket drive(spin tube) and block need to be replaced. If it is a growling noise then that is pump and may be normal if the basket is not spinning. If this is the case look very close for an article of clothing caught between the tub and basket.

Apr 19, 2010 | Estate TAWS800JQ Top Load Washer

Tip

JSROCK ROCKS!! had a prob w/ top loader elite not draining n spinning. Thanks to...


This advice is for Kenmore Elite, Whirlpool Duet and Maytag Epic model FRONT LOADING washing machines. If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here’s the information you need to check the drain pump:

  1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
  2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
  3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
  4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
  5. Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
  6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there’s nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
  7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
  8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT – DO NOT FORGET!).
  9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console – DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). “C00” will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
  10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
  11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
  12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.

NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.

on Jan 19, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Drain in the close position the drain handle is not working


Remove the 2 screws on the drain cover in the bath tub to gain access. Drain plug should be connected to trip lever on drain cover probably using a cotter pin with ends bent to keep it on. Do not yet remove the cotter pin.

To know for sure if it is the trip lever broken, you can hold the trip lever down and tub will drain. If you let go, trip lever on cover returns to upright position and stops draining. You can also feel the spring tension stay on it when you press the trip lever down. Most likely, the drain trip lever (spring action) which is a part of the cover itself is broken.

First have ice pick, thin screwdriver, (even a large paper clip (or 2 for strength) bent straight may do) or anything small enough to go through same hole in drain assembly as cotter pin, while long enough to go across hole in bathtub to hold drain assembly up till you install new drain cover attaching it to assembly with same or new cotter pin.
Now unbend the cotter pin (sort of looks like a heavy duty metal bobby pin) ends using pliers. Using pliers pull cotter pin out while holding drain assembly so it will not fall back into tub wall.
Next secure assembly using the above ice pick or large paper clip while you take trip lever (which is the cover)
to hardware store, etc. to pick up generic tub trip lever.



CHANCES ARE THE ABOVE SOLVED PROBLEM, BUT IN CASE IT WAS NOT THE TRIP LEVER WHEN YOU TESTED USING THE METHOD ABOVE TO DIAGNOSE THEN BELOW IS HOW TO REMOVE ENTIRE TUB DRAIN ASSEMBLY


There is a metal stem with a threaded rod coming up in it with a nut on it, and on the end of this is a round metal weight looking much like a very small upside down can. you will not be able to see all this unless it is neccesary to remove entire drain assembly which you can then take it to a Home Depot or Lowes type store to replace. Most can be replaced with a generic tub drain.
Now to get the assembly out once you've removed the 2 screws gently work metal stem assembly up and out at a slight angle. You may have to move nut on assembly to shorten the length in order to get it to clear the tub. IMPORTANT! If so, 1st mark the position of the nut on the threaded rod so you can put it back in same position when reinstalled before lowering assembly all the way back into tub wall.

Apr 17, 2010 | Home

1 Answer

How to remove links from band


This band is put together with cotter pins. To remove the cotter pins look at the edge of the band. The end of the pin that comes out is split and looks like a screw. The end that is solid is the end you want to push from. Use a small punch to push the pin out. The split end is the bigger end of the cotter pin so it needs to come out and go back in the same way it came out. Make sure you remove an even number of links on each side so the watch sits on the wrist the right way. You also have a micro adjustment on the clasp. To adjust the clasp simply use a punch to press the spring bar in the clasp in until it moves. This is a spring bar so be careful it doesnt jump out if the clasp comes apart.

Sep 22, 2009 | Festina 16177-4 watch Watch for Men

1 Answer

I need to adjust a Casio AMW320rd-1A9 STAINLESS WATCH BAND. ADVISE PLEASE


This band is put together with cotter pins. To remove the cotter pins look at the edge of the band. The end of the pin that comes out is split and looks like a screw. The end that is solid is the end you want to push from. Use a small punch to push the pin out. The split end is the bigger end of the cotter pin so it needs to come out and go back in the same way it came out. Make sure you remove an even number of links on each side so the watch sits on the wrist the right way. You also have a micro adjustment on the clasp. To adjust the clasp simply use a punch to press the spring bar in the clasp in until it moves. This is a spring bar so be careful it doesnt jump out if the clasp comes apart.

Sep 19, 2009 | Watches

1 Answer

2001 Sportster 883 Hugger Right Footpeg post


Hi Bkocher, this is a moderately easy fix but you are going to need a service manual for torque specifications and clarification please visit website below for $6.50 download.
1. Remove exhaust system.
2. Remove the screw and clip to free the brake line from the sproket cover.
3. Remove the two socket head screws and lock washers to free the rear brake master cylinder from the sproket cover.
4. Loosen the locknut and turn the brake push rod at the flats untill it is free of the rod end.
5. Remove the three sproket cover screws and washers. As a single assembly, remove the sprocket cover, footrest mount, rear brake pedal, and master cylinder stiffner.
6. Remove cotter pin and nut from footrest mount. Use blue Lock Tite on threads and torque footrest mounting nut to 40 ft lbs. replace cotter pin and assemble in reverse order. Good luck and have nice day.

Feb 11, 2009 | 2001 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

1 Answer

Brass cotter pins an plastic catch tubes???? Kenmore washer 110.92597210


This is an easy one to solve. Those are moving pins , when in transport. When it is delivered, the delivery people simply just pull on some straps and the pins fall in the cup. You need to keep these when moving washer to put back in, so not to damage anything.

Sep 25, 2008 | Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 110.20904990 top load washer


ignore those cups with the pins those pins were the travel lock devices and the cotters were attached to the yellow lanyard that whoever first put the unit into service pulled off of the back of the unit per instuctions. this pulled the cotters out of the pins which then fell into those cups. the cotters came out with the lanyard and are long gone. the not spinning is due to something in the clutch not working properly. the moving to one side is caused by one of the pads that the suspension plate rides on being missing. you can look at the diagram on sears website at the parts look up and see were the pads go and find out what the suspension plate is and such good luck!

Jul 27, 2008 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Moving a top load washer once used


if you have a wet dry shop vac you can pull all the water out through the drain hose till its dry don't think you would have any problems with the storage now shipping across country might be another thing when you got the washer new you had to pull the shipping pins a yellow tab with three cotter pins if you still had them you would need to replace them before shipping you would need to open the case and on the frame below the tub you will see three plastic cups with little pins in them you have to push them back up through the frame and replace the cotter pins to lock the lower frame to the upper tub frame or it wont ride good at all

Feb 12, 2008 | Kenmore 20172 Top Load Washer

7 Answers

Knocking Whrilpool Duet


The "cleats" inside the wash tub are actually called "fins". If they are loose try tightening them to see if the sound goes away. You should be able to tighten them from inside the wash tub. Some models have mounting screws that are accessible from inside the wash tub. However, if your machine is knocking like you say it is, it could be sign that one or more of the mounting shocks under the wash tub could be bad, the rear tub bearing could be going bad, or the drive pulley could be cracked or warped. Remove the lower kick plate and watch the shocks during the spin cycle. The shocks should vibrate some, but should not be excessive to the point that it causes an unbalanced spin. To check the drive pulley, remove the 3 screws from the washer top in the rear of the machine. The top should slide back some and then lift off. Watch the drive pulley behind the wash tub during the spin to make sure the rotation is smooth and even. Sometimes one of the arms on the pulley can crack or become bent and cause the pulley to wobble. More than likely, though, the drive belt would slip off. I have also seen where the hole in the center of the drive pulley starts to "round out". The hole is not perfectly round and has to flat sides. Sometimes over time the drive shaft will start to slip around the flat sides, causing the pulley to rattle during the spin cycle. If the rear tub bearing is starting to go, the washer will be very noisy during the spin cycle, and you may start to notice some stains on your clothes if the bearing seal has been breached. You can reach inside the wash tub with the unit turned off. With one hand, push up on the wash tub and release. If you can feel the tub moving up and down (even the slightest) this could be a sign that the bearing is worn out. Now this should be a noticeable metal on metal type feel. Not the normal motion of the wash tub moving up and down from the motion of the shocks. The tub bearing is not a cheap (or easy) fix. The entire back section of the rear outer tub shell has to be replaced, because the bearing is molded into the plastic. Check all the easy things first. Let me know if this helps.

Jun 28, 2007 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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