When plugged in the motor runs for a few seconds and then stops
I opened the pump and the vanes do not slide freely. This seems to be caused by the lubricant itself. I proceeded to clean it with solcent and it worked very well for a while and then the same thind occured.Is graphite a better lube for the vanes? the unit is 60,000 btu and not very old.
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Thermal Overload Switch: Something is creating an overload on the pump. Once it is overworked, the motor will overheat. This will be sensed by the T.O. switch. Once the switch senses that the motor has cooled, it will start again.
Reasons for overload:
Bearings no longer spinning freely & without restriction
Foreign debris in the volute, jamming against the impeller
All airless sprayers are on-demand pumps. The two settings are prime and spray. When it is set to prime, the pump will draw liquid from the bucket below and pump it out the side tube and will never stop until you switch it back to spray. When set to spray, the pump will run until the pre-set pressure is reached, then stop. As soon as you start spraying, the pump will run until a few seconds after you stop spraying. Tip size and pressure setting will affect how long after you stop spraying the pump will run. A large tip and high pressure will cause the pump to run longer after you stop spraying.
There is a number of things that could be causing the problem. The most likely thing is that a bearing on the motor is going out. The other possibility is that there's a foreign object stuck in the impeller. The best thing to do would be to DISCONNECT THE POWER and then remove one of the pipes connected to the pump. See if the impeller (the wheel with vanes on it) turns freely. If it doesn't turn freely and there's no foreign objects, then it's a bearing going bad. You should turn the pump off because it could damage itself further. Depending on your mechanical skill or availability of a local motor shop, it might be cheaper to get a new motor or whole new pump than it would be to repair it.
From the sound of it the pump has seized and the thermal breaker is tripping causing the off and on buzzing sound. The problem could be in the motor or the pump attached to the motor. The easiest way to check this is to pull the pump/motor assembly out and check the rotation of the impeller. The impeller should spin freely with no drag. Most pump/motor assembly have a screw slot in the back under a plug or just open in the middle of the back of the motor. In some cases this test can be done without removing the pump/motor assembly. If the motor and pump do not spin freely, puchase a new pump and motor as one unit..
Shut the power off to the unit, spin the fan blade to see if it spins freely. If it doesn't spin freely, (there appears to be a little drag when you spin it),the bearings are bad, if it does spin freely, then try moving the motor shaft from side to side if there’s any play in the shaft side to side then the bearings are worn and motor needs replaced. Then, check the capacitor, if it’s bulging even slightly, the capacitor is bad and needs replaced. Most of the time people replace the capacitor if motor seems ok. If capacitor is ok, turn power on to see if the motor is getting the proper voltage, if it is and not trying to run, then the windings are probably open, the motor's bad and needs replaced.
Odds are, your air pump is locked up. Remove the cover on the back of the fan motor, remove the pump cover and carefully remove the air pump rotor and blades. If the motor spins freely and will start when plugged in, the pump housing plates probably have a bit of corrosion on them. Lightly clean the pump housing end plates with fine grit sandpaper, wipe clean and re-assemble. Should fix the problem. Does the breaker trip when this happens?