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Kenmore electric dryer no heat. heating element? or temp. dial? timer goes to 0 dryer still runs

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SOUNDS LIKE HEATING ELEMENT NEEDS REPLACED BUT BEFOR YOU DO THAT TRY CLEANNING YOUR OLD ONE WITH STILL WOOL FIRST THEN RUNNING THE DRYER

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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Check to make sure you have 240V at the outlet. If you do, check the continuity of the element and thermostats. If still no heat, it could be the temperature setting switch, the timer or the motor.
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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My Kenmore HE4 electric dryer runs for 2 minutes and stops


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
The timer could be the problem. To check this, turn the timer to a timed cycle say 30 minutes or so then time it. If in 30 minutes the timer hasn't moved and the dryer is still on, the timer is faulty replac it. If in 30 minutes the dryer is off, the heating element is your problem

Heating Element
This is the most likely cause for some dryers timer not advancing. Some dryers have two heating elements and if one goes out the timer will not advance if you use it on an automatic cycle but you will still feel heat inside the tub. Replace it

Oct 01, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 600 Electric dryer won't heat up. I have replaced the Thermostat and Heating Element. No heat. What should I do next.


You could have a timer problem or an electrical problem. Unplug the dryer. Find the wire that connects from timer to heating element. Disconnect it from that terminal and clamp a lead from an ohm meter there. Then test for continuity from that terminal to any other terminal of that timer while turning the dial to various spots. If you cannot get a reading then you have a bad timer.themobilian_859.jpg
The motor is a 120 volt one. The motor runs off neutral and one side of the 30 amp two pole circuit breaker. You might be fooled into thinking you have power to the element but you may not have it.
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I have a service manual and more HERE


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Jan 12, 2011 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat have voltage


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and brittle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

Sep 08, 2010 | Kenmore 62722 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat in kenmore 600 series elec dryer


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and brittle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

Aug 18, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

MY KENMORE DRYER IN NOT HEATING.. NO HOT AIR COMMING


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. Repair photos and more here

Aug 07, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer wont get hot


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust.71b523c.jpg The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. 0d21cec.jpgOn gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. 089a5d8.jpgA limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. f6fe985.jpgOn gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. 4f2431c.jpgThe timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine.7673e13.jpg On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine.

May 30, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My kenmore electric dryer doesn't heat. Blows cool air


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

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1 Answer

Kenmore Elec Dryer timer & Heat Element Failed


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1 Answer

Kenmore Elec Dryer timer & Heat Element Failed


Hello there:
I would have to tell you that i dont think that the two would fail at the same time but it can happen but not too often
deffinatly replacethe timer and the heating element and this will solve the problem
also since you have the unit opened i would inspect all of the wiring for loose connections and moisture cause this will cause things like these to fail prematuraly ok?
I hope that this has peeb very helpfull for you
best regards michael

Nov 04, 2009 | Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer Model 110


If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

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