I have a terrible smell coming from my large ceiling mounted Mitsubishi air conditioning unit. The smell is worse when the air con. is on, heat or cool, but you can smell it all the time. It is a very sickly smell, not like drains. We have eliminated any other cause. The unit is about 3 years old. We bought the apartment a year ago with the air con already installed. Is the smell from a leak or fluid or gas?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Indoor unit indicator
RUN lamp = 6 time flash
TIMER lamp = Comes on
Outdoor unit indicator (LED5) = Stays off
Description of trouble = Indoor fan motor error (2)
Cause = Defective fan motor, Connector poor connection
Conditions of flashing = When air conditioner is operating and indoor fan motor is turned ON, indoor fan motor speed of 400 rpm or under continued for more than 30 seconds. (Air conditioner stops.)
I'm sure you are aware of the fact that any odors inside the RV, can be drawn in through ceiling assembly at filter and recirculated through duct work etc. With that said, first try taking down the filter at the ceiling and washing it well in water and dish soap, or for the sake of a few $'s, replace it. If that doesn't cure it, then for the sake of safety, remove cover over AC unit on roof and do a careful visual inspection of all wiring, components and especially connections at capacitors as they are prone to get hot and melt plastic in those areas, thus giving off a burning smell. Also be aware that capacitors are very, very , dangerous to handle if not experienced, so please alert whoever does inspect them, that touching them can result in a very high voltage shock, which can be fatal. !!
If this is a ceiling mount, there should be to slide tabs on front of the
unit, slide those back and the cover should come down, it has a couple of safety chaines to keep the cover from coming all the way down
Welcome to FixYa,
Check the Following Is your filter clean? Look and the evaporator in the inside unit. Is it frosted up? Do you have condensation water in the pan? Go to the outside unit and feel the air coming out of the fan. Is it warm? Now feel the 2 copper pipes coming out of the unit. Is the small one warm or hot? Is the larger one cool ? Is there moisture on it? Air conditioner runs but doesn't cool at all If the airflow is good and the air coming out is not cold, your home air conditioning problem may be a temporary problem - your coils may have frozen. Turn the unit off for an hour to let them thaw, then try again. If cold air is now present, freezing coils were the problem; if the problem recurs soon after turning on, you may need to replace the coils. Again, call a pro. If you have ceiling vents in upstairs rooms and the air flowing from them is consistently warm, you probably have leaky or poorly insulated ductwork in your attic. See my Attic ceiling insulation page for more information on insulating ductwork that runs through attics. Another likely home air conditioning problem if you have good airflow but no cooling is that thebreaker to the outside unit is shut off, which, depending on the installation, can either cause the air conditioning system to not run at all, or to appear to be running but not provide any cooling. If you can hear the compressor fan running outside, the breaker is on, but if the outside unit is silent the outside breaker may be off. If switching it on does not solve the problem, look for the high pressure cut outon the condenser and try resetting that. Check this Link for Detailed RepairClick here
Hope you got an Idea...Thanks for Contacting FixYa...
Since you have a knob, I am assuming that this unit has manual controls that are mounted directly below the air conditioner on a ceiling pack. If you smell burned wiring, remove the inside shroud to access the 120VAC connections in the unit. Check these connections for OK, if they look burnt, cut them back and reattach them (be sure to turn the breaker off first). Try the AC again.
If those connections look fine, then remove the upper cover from the unit. Access the capacitors on the side of the unit and check them for ok. If any one of them looks burnt, replace it. These two places are usually the only place that you will get a burned plastic smell.
The upper unit itself is not ducted. They are all the same. The ducting is done with the lower unit or "Ceiling Pack" of the air conditioner. You need to see your RV is ducted, ie...vents in the ceiling that blow the are out. Usually they are round and mount into the ceiling. Another way to tell is if the unit has a wall mounted thermostat.
Not sure what the smell...smells like. My guess is dirt or dust near the heating elements. These will cause a burning smell. Sometimes insects even get into the act..building webs.
You will have to clean that area out...sometimes a large blower or vac can dislodge the dust.
Is this an upflow or downflow unit? (vents in the floor or ceilings?) If an upflow, the coils needs cleannings and disefectant added. (mold-- bacteria--slime-- gooks---darkness plus moisture = bacteria growth.
during Cooling and Dry modes, if the unit is used under conditions of lower temperature (18C) the heat-exchanger may freeze, leading to water leakage and other damage. If the unit is used for long periods under high-humidity conditions, condensation may form on the surface of the indoor unit, and drip onto the floor or other objects underneath. (About 80% or more)