Front 3 inches of entire door jambs reach temperatures of up to 140 deg fahrenheit then goes back to normal after a couple of hours also freezer thaws out then re freezes food . Compressor & motor were replaced about a month ago

The defrost timer normally only cuts in once every 24 hours. It sounds like your thermostat or temperature sensor is defective. The set back temperature should be about 2'C less than the set temperature.

It is a warning that the fridge thinks the defrost heater is bad

Frigidaire side by side Model Ffhs2622msu Flashing H on the... H means that the refrigerator thinks the heater is bad. You'll need to pull everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel inside the freezer. You'll see the silver evaporator coils with the evaporator fan above it.
Apr. 14, 2020

What does flashing h mean on Frigidaire refrigerator?

Suggest lowering the refrigerator set point to a lower number such as 3. There is usually an indication of normal setting on the adjustments. Wait 24 hours and check the refrigerator compartment again. Use a thermometer to record the temperatures. The meat compartment will be normal just below freezing. If no success then read the following.

One reason that this occurs is that the unit is working near continuously to reach the freezer temperature. Another words the unit is not capable or cooling the freezer to the prescribed temperature. The result is the excess cooling eventually reaches the refrigerator section causing the refrigerator to freeze. The unit will if this is the case run nearly continuously. This situation is counter intuitive. Freezer not reaching set point, excessive cooling over cools refrigerator therefore refrigerator freezes.

The cause is either the freezer door/seal is not closing or sealing the freezer compartment or the compressor or defrost cycle is not functioning properly.

Check the freezer door seal using a strip of paper. Check to see if air is flowing from the vents in the freezer. Using a thermometer check the temperature of the freezer. Listen for and record if the compressor is running or not.

The normal freezer temperature is around '0' Fahrenheit. If no or little air is flowing from freezer air vents look for ice on the back wall. If ice is present it is likely the auto defrost cycle is not working. Attempt to defrost by hand which requires several hours with everything removed.

Check that lint and dust has not blocked the coils under the unit and that the lower fan is running. Usually warm air exits from the machine grill in the front. Remove the grill and check for air flow and debris buildup. Vacuum if necessary.

And unfortunately if the compressor runs continuously and no air blockage underneath would indicate that the cooling capacity is reduced requiring a major service or replacement.

Hope this helps?

You probably have one compressor that cools the freezer section and the refrigerator section. Usually the freezer gets cooled directly with the cooling coils. A fan blows cool air to the refrigerator section. The air flow to the refrigerator may be modulated with some time of "air door". What you have written says to me, is that the fans and air doors are working but there is enough cold for the refrigerator but not enough for the freezer.

Here is what I would do:

1. Put a thermometer in the refrigerator and in the freezer.
2. Be sure the coils underneath or behind the refrigerator are clean. If they are very dirty, clean them.
3. Keep the doors shut for at least 12 hours and then read the thermometers and write down the temperatures.
4. Freezer temperature
   1. If the freezer has started freezing again, you fixed it by cleaning the coils
   2. .If the freezer temperature is between 0 deg F and 32 deg F, consider putting the food in a cooler and packing in some dry ice to try and save it.
   3. If the freezer is warmer than 32 deg f, throw away the food.
   4. Doctors and hospitals are pretty expensive. I would throw away the food no matter what the thermometer read.
5. Look inside the freezer at the cooling coils. See if they are ice coated or not.
   1. If the freezer is above 0 deg F, and the coils are ice covered, the defrost control is not working. Unplug the refrigerator for 12 hours and let the ice melt. (Keep the doors shut.) Then, plug in the refrigerator for 12 hours and check the temperature like in step 3.
   2. If the freezer is above 0 deg F, and the coils are NOT ice covered, the compressor is not working.
      
6. Call the service technician. When she comes out show her the temperatures and tell her what you found out about the ice on the coils.

Good luck

Hello Richard;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

The normal range for a freezer is -2 to +2 Deg. F.

The normal range for the fresh food section is 35 to 40 Deg. F.

If you set your freezer at 0 Deg. F. it will stay at 0 Deg. F.
When the freezer temperature drops below 0, your compressor will kick in to bring the freezer back to 0 Deg. F.

If the sensor detects a problem, it sends a trouble code to the ECM and your "check engine" light will come on. IMO, your symptom sounds like "cold engine" issue. Myself, our 98 Toyota Rav4 will idle rough and engine stalls when put in drive, but the problem goes away when temperature shows the engine had warmed up to operating temperature. FYI the temperature sensor monitors the radiator coolant temperature. Normal engine temperature is when coolant reaches 120 degree fahrenheit. At around 130 to 140 degrees fahrenheit, the coolant thermostat opens to let radiator coolant flow from "bypass" mode to "enter radiator" mode. If it takes longer than 10 minutes for your engine to warm up, its possible the coolant thermostat is stuck in open "enter radiator" mode. When thermostat is close, coolant radiator bypass the radiator to speed up engine warm up, but if its stuck in open, it will take longer to warm up the engine. Another factor is ambient temperature. If its cold below 50 fahrenheit, it will take longer to warm up the engine.

Check the engine thermostat!

Thermostat checking:
1. Cold engine. Start up the engine and watch of the water temp indicator. After first value 140 degrees F you still warm up the engine until the lifter (pointer) reach 175 deg. F (second mark after 140 deg. F). At this time you let engine running at idle speed and check with your hand the thermostat plastic housing and hose temperature in bottom left side of the engine. Heed of alternator driving belt and ventilator fan !!!
2. If the thermostat is good the hose must be cold until the water temp indicator reach almost 195 deg. F.
3. The thermostat opening temperature is 188 deg. F.
4. If the hose is already warm the thermostat is out of order.

Replace the thermostat if necessary!


Please do rate my response. Thanks!

During the Automatic defrosting cycle there is a 60 Deg F thermostat on the evaporator that must cycle to terminate the defrost cycle and restart the compressor. If for some reason the defrost heating element is not coming on (failed / open / wire terminal problem) The the unit will just sit not operating until it reaches 60 F in the evaporator section of the freeser compartment. I suspect that you have an Automatic defrost heating element problem. Again that can be from a broken wire / terminal or the element itself has failed. It is possible that the 60 deg F thermostat itself is sticking and not cycling when the temp of the evaporator reaches 60F. It can also be caused by the temperature control that does not complete the circuit and start the unit when the fresh food section reaches cycling temp 34 - 37 deg F.

Your particular unit uses a thermistor and what is listed as a sensor to control the defrost and cycle temp circuits.

Parts list here:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/LG-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-LRFC22750ST/3204/0161000/P0809090/00002?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Sensor is Item 903E

I am NOT telling to order anything thing. The only way to find out is to read out the components.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly




This requires that the back of the freezer compartment be opened to troubleshoot and repair. Troubleshooting is done via resistance checks from the defrost control board or timer to the compressor. Usually blue wire from the control to the orange wire on the compressor then finding out which component has failed by reading resistance before and after each component.

The only way to find out is to use a meter.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Generally, the defrost is based on compressor run time and not ime of day that it defrosts. The defrost cycle time is between 10 and 30 minutes and does not allow the temperature to increase enough to defrost or start to thaw food. This suggests that another problem may be occouring. The goal temperature in the freezer should be 0 degress F. It may not be reaching this temperature due to a dirty condenser coils (clean with a bottle brush and vacuum, or a air leak through the door seals.

E002 Insufficient temperature rise of the fixing unit

0002 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach 70 deg C within 180 sec after
reaching 50 deg C.
Check on connection of the thermistor, Replace the
fixing unit
To recover from the error: In service mode ( * 2 8 * )
COPIER>FUNCTION>CLEAR >ERR
0003 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach 100 deg C within 180 sec after
reaching 70 deg C.
0004 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach 120 deg C within 180 sec after
reaching 100 deg C.
0005 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach 140 deg C within 180 sec after
reaching 120 deg C.
0006 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach 160 deg C within 180 sec after
reaching 140 deg C.
0007 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach 180 deg C within 180 sec after
reaching 160 deg C.
0008 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach standby temperature (normally
190 deg C) within 180 sec after reaching
180 deg C.
0101 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach 120 deg C within 300 sec after
power-on.
0102 The non-contact thermistor fails to
reach standby temperature (normally
190 deg C) within 300 sec after reaching
120 deg C.