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you take off the door panel by using a panel clip tool to pop the clips for the panel to come off also check for any screws holding the panel to the door by the inside door handle the bottoms of the panel once you get it off unplug the window door switches to move the panel out of the way but first lower the window track so you can see it remove the weather seal plastic and then when you can get to the track and the glass you'll see that there should be yellow circle clips that pop together to hold the glass with rivets I'm assuming the glass is broken and this might have come off and is in the bottom of the door use these for the new glass after drilling out the old rivets snap them together one on each side of the new glass and then put bolts and nuts on to tighten or use a rivet gun to the track reconnect the switches for door window power and raise the glass
The small popping noise was some component in the Window Operator Mechanism breaking - the cable may have snapped, a plastic pulley may have broken, a plastic cable guide may have broken - it could be anything.
The reason you can't see the Window Operator Motor or the track is that it is behind the moisture barrier - remove it by carefully peeling it back at the edges of the door frame (so that it can be re-adhered back to the same door frame location without adding adhesive/sealant).
When you get to the Operator, be prepared to have to drill out some number of aluminum rivets to remove the OEM Operator, and, when installing the new Window Operator Mechanism, you'll have to replace these rivets with your own Pop Rivets, or they can be replaced with small hardware store nuts/bolts/washers (mechanics choice). Have an assortment of both ready before you attempt your Window Operator Mechanism replacement.
If the broken component of your Driver's Door Window Operator Mechanism is actually a missing/broken rivet, then replacing that would fix the Window. But these rivets hardly ever fail - what fails is plastic components in the Window Operator Mechanism.
Depends on what's broken the wing nut is quite easy to get out, the plastic block it screws into is a bit more difficult. You need to take to top cap off (the black plastic cover where the extension handle comes out) It's held by either a small screw or a pop rivet. If a rivet you'll have to drill it out and replace with a self tapper screw or a new pop rivet. The wing nut assembly will now side up and you can access the screw at the back that keeps the wing nut from coming right out. If all you need to do is swap the wing nut you're done! But if you need to replace the plastic block you have to open up both sides, remove the handle release buttons and find a small Allen/hex key to release the plastic blocks clamped to the wire rods that links to the hubs. Then you can pull the extension handle out and access the screw blocks.
THERE WILL BE 2 10mm NUTS THAT HOLD THE GLASS TO THE REGULATOR, REMOVE THOSE. THE REGULATOR IS HELD ON BY THE WINDOW MOTOR, THERE IS 4 RIVETS HOLDING THE MOTOR GRID THOSE RIVETS AND THE MOTOR AND REGULATOR WILL COME OUT. REPLACE MOTOR AND REGULATOR INSTALL 4 RIVETS SIZE 1/4" DIA GRIP RANG 032" AND ATTACH WINDOW WITH NUTS TO REGULATOR.
I just purchased a used yukon xl. Both plastic rails are broken.
Solution: Drill out the blind rivet. Start with 1/8 drill bit and remove the head off. The plastic broken part can now be removed.
Install a blind rivet through the new plastic rail and use the rivet gun to squeeze the rivet in place. Make sure it is the right length.
get a grip gage and determine the right rivet for it.
very easy job.
Remove door trim panel and watershield. Refer to Section 01-05.
CAUTION: Prior to removing center pins from the rivet, it is recommended that a suitable block support be inserted between door outer panel and glass bracket to stabilize glass during rivet removal. Remove center pin from each rivet with a drift punch. Using a 1/4-inch diameter drill, drill out remaining rivets as damage to plastic glass retainer and spacer could result.
Remove two rivets attaching glass to run and bracket assembly.
Remove drillings and pins from bottom of door.
Snap plastic retainer and spacer into two glass retainer holes. Make certain that metal washer in the retainer assembly is on outboard side of glass.
Insert glass into door.
Position glass to glass bracket. Install two rivets to secure glass to glass bracket.
NOTE: Two 1/4-inch-20 x 1-inch bolts and two 1/4-inch-20 nut and washer assemblies may be used as alternates for glass retention. However, torque must not exceed 4-7 Nm (36-61 lb-in). Equivalent metric retainers (6mm) may be used.
Open the deck lid (trunk) to better access the lights. There will be 2 of them. Recommend replacing both at the same time even if only one has failed. Generally sold in pairs anyway.
Directly above the license plate will be mounted 2 clear light covers. On the right side of each light cover you can see a small plastic rivet. Push in the center 1/4 inch with a small screwdriver then you will be able to pry out and remove the rivet without damaging it. This will save you from buying replacement plastic rivets for re-installation. Remove the light cover with the bulb harness attached.
The bulb harness requires a short turn counter clockwise to remove it from the light cover and the new bulbs snap into the harness. No twisting or screwing. Replace the bulb harness the same way and fasten the light cover back into place using the plastic rivet.
Saves time because both bulbs and light covers are exactly the same style, there is no left or right. Cheers!
29 cent part my fix your problem. There is a nipple on the interior door lock lever that fits into a slot on the door handle lever. Look at passenger side to compare. The nipple is covered with a plastic spacer that may come off. The spacer keeps the lock nipple snug in the handle lever slot; pull the handle lever, it engages the lock lever, opening door. I bought a .29 cent aluminum spacer (#8x1/4 x 1/4) from Orchard hardware. Take needle nose pliers and slip the spacer on, then super glue. Unfortunately if lock lever (where riveted) is badly worn, then it may pivot upward instead of perpendicular to the door, thus defeating new spacer. But you may now be able to open door by pulling handle lever and lock lever at the same time. If you need to replace door handle, others on this site have suggested that you not replace metal frame that door handle is mounted on, but drill out rivets that hold door handle mount.
The slide tray has a plastic guide riveted to the bottom it. The guide has two tabs and an adjustment screw in the middle. One fof the tabs is broken off. Is that guide available for purchase so I can remove the old one and rivet the new one in its place? Model 1030v /4 989a slicer