Question about Dryers

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This a stacked washer dryer unit. Dryer will not heat. The heating element looks good. Checked with an Ohmeter and it tests positive for complete circuit. Can the hating element stgill be bad?

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  • gmoose1 Mar 10, 2009

    Okay, I tested the voltage at the contacts to the heating element and found no voltage coming into the heating element. What is the next step to diagnosing the problem with this dryer.

  • gmoose1 Mar 10, 2009

    I know where the thermal fuse is on the unit. How do I determine if this is okay?

  • gmoose1 Mar 10, 2009

    any way to test this part before replacing it?

  • gmoose1 Mar 10, 2009

    Again the question is. Anyway to test the thermal fuse to determine if it is the problem?

  • gmoose1 Mar 10, 2009

    I have voltage at the power source on both legs. but no voltage at the element.

  • gmoose1 Mar 10, 2009

    No voltage at the heating element

  • gmoose1 Mar 10, 2009

    I tested the thermal fuse and found it to be bad. Bought the part locally for $15.89. The dryer is fixed and working. FixYa.com is a great service. Thank-you Ginko

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12 Answers

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The control board in the machine needs to be replaced.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Suspected Components:
1. Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.
2. Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
3. Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) – Resistance reading of 0 ohms.
4. Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, approx. 7 ohms across the other.
5. Bad Heater Relay (usually located in the console) – this is not equipped on all model dryers. However, on dryers that DO have them, this acts as a switch and turns the heater circuits on at the push of the START switch.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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  • Dryers Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi there,

To start, you do not test an heting element by reding voltages, even if reading voltages you can understand if heating element has continuity.

You test theating element and termal fuse in the same way. You test them for continuity.

To test continuity you set the multimeter on ohm scale and test impedance at the two contacts on termal fuse or element.

If impedance is infinite then termal fuse is bad, in same way you test element.

If you have no heat , but the machine tumbles, then test termal fuse, check if the fan is running, and test heating element for continuity.
By reading volts to heating element you tested the control board and wiring to element, that usually is the last part to test in order.

Always unplug the appliance before testing for continuity.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 10, 2009

    If you have no voltage at the element then test termal fuse, if termal fuse is also good then tst and replace the control board.

    To test the control boardand wiring harness. To test control board, inspect it visually, if you find a bulged capacitor, then board is bad, also test all resistors on control board for continuity.


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  • Master
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OK, if the time delay fuse(thermal) is bad, you will not be able to retrieve a reading during test. this is a common issue when the element is malfunctioning. replacing this time delay fuse will fix this issue. If the element has good readings then, its most defiantly the thermal fuse. make sure you replace it with a time delay. regular fuses wont work.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Mar 10, 2009

    continuity test is best.

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  • 201 Answers

Test between the fuse and ground - You should have voltage on both sides of the fuse.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • John Aman
    John Aman Mar 10, 2009

    Or as mildcooksey said, you can test it for continuity - just disconnect the power to the dryer and the leads to the fuse first.

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There is a thermal fuse in your machine which may be open or you may even have voltage issues. Try turning the breaker off and then back on and see if it heats then.

More likely its thermal fuse.If you stand on a chair, and take all the screws off the top cover on the dryer, and remove the top cover, you will see the thermal fuse on the top left hand corner. It is the size of a dime, and has 2 wires going to it. This is a easy one.


Thanks.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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  • Master
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Make sure you have 110 volts on each leg coming from the power source. The motor works on one leg, the heater element the other leg. If you have voltage, it is probably the element.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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No npt unlessit has welded itself to cage.you may want to check and make sure you are getting 220 to the dryer.and what brand is it.most have a thermal fuse and if fuse blows it wont heat

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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  • mike cooksey Mar 10, 2009

    check your thermal fuse located on heater cage.it will have 2 wire and is the smallest looking one of the 2 on cage

  • mike cooksey Mar 10, 2009

    you can test it by using continuity.

  • mike cooksey Mar 10, 2009

    if it doesnt read continuity it is bad.

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  • Master
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I don't think so. There are a few things it could be but a thermal relay would be the best bet....simple to change, located on the tubing that the heating element is and has two screws holding it on. Less than $30 for the parts. It happened to my dryer just two weeks ago.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • Greg Bernett
    Greg Bernett Mar 10, 2009

    You can check the continuity between the pins by removing the piece and checking the contacts....but you remove it...you can go ahead and replace it. How is your cord on the backside of your unit? The portion that goes into the dryer?

  • Greg Bernett
    Greg Bernett Mar 10, 2009

    Thermal fuse.

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If there is voltage at the element, then the element is bad, no voltage would make it good and have a different problem, probably on the control board. Let me know how much voltage you have when you try running it. You might have to trip some safety features to test it.

Benjamin

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • Benjamin Patri
    Benjamin Patri Mar 10, 2009

    alright so no voltage, well you can try using a voltmeter and see if there is any voltage across the fuse or just buy another fuse since it is fairly cheap and the most common problem other than the element

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Hi!

Have you checked the thermal fuse? It can also cause this to happen.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Mar 09, 2009

    Please tell me the model number so that i can describe the location of thermal fuse and other details. Thermal fuse










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  • Dryers Master
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When the element is turned on do you have line voltage at the element? I have replaced many elements and have only seen one that "looked Bad" the outside of the element is just a cover, the wire heater is inside the outer metal sheath, the elements are cheap and they are the most common thing to fail in any appliance that uses one.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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