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Remember that the control is intended to keep the interior temperature of the refrigerator section at approximately 36F-40F for normal operation. If the garage temperature falls below this point the Refrigerator won't run again until Spring, or whenever the garage temperatures rise above the normal range for a long enough period of time. If you have sustained periods where you garage is below 40F it's likely you will Freeze everything in the refrigerator and break glass containers while The Freezer will be TOO warm.
This unit will not work properly where outside temperatures remain below 36F for extended periods of time.
it could be door seals ,not fitting tight all round(an air leak in the bottom seal will encorage ice to form on the floor) thermostat turned up to high(fridge temp should be plus 2 to 5c not lower or salad will freeze.
or a faulty thermostat.
The evaporator fan (little fan in freezer), is the one that blows cool air to the fridge. If your evaporator is freezing up, it could be due to the thermostat set too high, and the fridge control set too low. Set freezer temp. one number lower, wait 24 hrs and check, if evaporator still freezes, lower it one more setting. If temp in fridge is OK. leave it alone, or adjust accordingly.
Sounds like your freezer has a bad defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) or bad #4 and/or #5 thermistor . This bimetal , has a high temp rating of 140 degrees , which means , when it gets to 140 behind the panel , it will cut off the defrost heater , to keep ice and food from thawing . The thermistors , tell the main control board the temps , and it decides when to restart the cooling process . I would check the thermistors by the digital controls , in the test mode , or have a technician check them for you .
If you can find the duct work behind the draws you might find an air control, if you have a contract with Sears - you can call them back, the part that was replaced has a Garn.T and or 30 days on service, when you ajust the temps it may sometime act up but has a default and will return to that. Cold air drops down. read the manual that came with the Refrig. Buying a service contract might be the best thing for piece of mind - Sears covers everything, even plactic and paint ( scratches). most everything is plastic in the refrigerators today and are very expensive, 3 doors allow more air into the unit then a 2 door because of the seal between the doors, just 2 pieces of rubber overlapping .
Act on this as fast as you can, 30 days on service goes fast and a service call runs about 75 dollars . Oh ! don't put wet veggies in draw and rap everything with Plastic wrap, veggies only least about 4 /5 days then become soft and lose taste and color.
yep sounds as though it is iceing up after it runs for a couple of days
you may have a defrost heater or defrost timer not working
the fact it didnot have water in the tray, you prob have a blocked drain as well
Sort of sounds like the adaptive defrost board is bad and you are not going into a defrost cycle. Do you have ice build up on the lower interior freezer section? Are the vent slots full of frost/ice? Ideally, pull the freezer shelfs out and take the little aluminum panel off the interior back to look at the coils. Are they basically a block of ice and frost? The problem happens when the unit doesn't go into defrost cycle and the coils freeze up. That blocks the air flow in the freezer so you get frozen food at the bottom but soft stuff at the top. And the frige just can't get enough cool/cold air from the freezer section to cool anymore. Power surges or blackouts, etc. can just destroy the defrost circuit board. Without good air flow the unit is not going to cool properly.