I have a whirlpool about 5 years old leakiing transmission fluid from the seal between the transmission and the coupler. is this a tough repair? thank you

Oil leaking around a starter is usually one of three possible things.
If it is motor oil, then suspect the rear main seal.
It it is auto trans fluid, it could be from the transmission front seal or the torque converter
If you have a manual transmission, it could be clutch fluid leaking from the slave cylinder, or a leaky front seal from the transmission.

CHECK UNDER VECHICLE IF TRANSMISSION FLUID UNDER TRANSMISSION MORE LIKELY PAN GASKET LEAKING FLUID.IF FLUID HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED THE PAN GASKET GET HARD LEAKS FLUID.THATS IF YOU HAVE SLOW LEAK.IF YOU LOSING LOTS OF TRANSMISSION FLUID ITS .LEAKING AT TORQUE CONVERTER SHAFT SEAL.LEAKING AT COOLER LINES.CHECK COOLER LINES FROM RADIATOR TO UNDER CAR WHERE COOLER LINES GOES TO TRANSMISSION. AND CHECK LEAKS AT FRONT DRIVE SHAFT AXLES SEALS

TRANSMISSION LEAKS COME FROM TRANSMISSION OIL PAN GASKET LEAKING.OIL COOLERS LINES LEAKING.LEAKING AT TORQUE CONVERTER FRONT SEAL.TRANSMISSION SPEED SENSOR SEAL LEAKING.FRONT AXLE SEALS LEAKING AND LEAKING AT TRANSMISSION COOLING LINES TO RADIATOR.CHECK ALL YOU WILL FIND LEAK.IF YOU HAVE FAST LEAK OR PRESSURE LEAK.WITH CAR RUNNING IN PARK EMERGENCY BRAKE APPLIED LOOK UNDER CAR IF YOU SEE FLUID LEAKING OUT IN LARGE QUANITIES.COOLER LINES LEAKING OR TORQUE CONVERTER FRONT SEAL LEAKING.IF YOU HAVE SLOW LEAK THE LEAKS HAS TO BE AXLES SEALS OR PAN GASKET LEAKING OR VSS SENSOR SEAL LEAKING.

I am experiencing the same problem and someone just told me it is a leaky transmission and some models have replaceable seals otherwise you would have to replace the entire transmission. I'm not sure what would be more cost effective if you can't replace the seals. Good Luck!

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


Since it will spin (somewhat) two possibilities:

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

The front seal could be replaced, and not have a problem. If you have a shop other than a transmission shop do the repairs, make sure the torque converter hub is inspected to make certain its not scratched/scorn. If the trans shifts properly and the fluid is not burned or smells burned, this would be an easy repair. If the trans fluid smells burned, and hasn't been serviced regularly, the rebuild would be the way to go. Also, ask what the warranty for any and all repair are on your vehicle. Normal warranty is 1yr, 12.000 miles in the automotive business.

Transmission oil should be replaced every 45,000 to 60,000 miles/ 60,000 to 100,000 KM to ensure the transmission will last a long time.

Hi,
The problem is a broken motor coupler.
Set the washer on the regular cycle, large load and let it fill. After the washer fills to the selected level, the motor should start and the agitator should start agitating.
If you hear the motor running, but the agitator doesn't move at all, do the following. Stop the washer and set the timer on the spin cycle and let it run.
If the washer motor runs and the washer empties the water from the tank, but it won't spin, that is an indication that the motor coupler is not turning the transmission at all.
The motor coupler is made of two pieces of plastic called fingers and a hard rubber piece that goes in between the two fingers. One of the fingers is attached to the motor and the other finger is attached to the transmission. They had rubber round piece goes between the two fingers. When one of the plastic fingers breaks, the motor is no longer coupled to the transmission and the washer will not agitate or spin dry the clothes. The reason that the motor coupler breaks before it should, it is that the user overloads the washer. People stuff the washer with too much clothes, big comforters, small placer rugs, snickers, etc.
Another reason is that the washer is used every day; normally the washer is used 3 times a week. So if you have a washer that is 5 years old and you use it every day, it has the wear and tear of a washer that is 10 years old.
Replacing the motor coupler is not hard to do, once you see how the repair is done. You will save at least $100 by replacing the motor coupler yourself.

Thank You for contacting Fixya.com

sounds like the water seal in front of the drum bearings has failed causing grease from the bearings to get into the washtub this is usually accompanied by noisy spin cycle and rumbling noises from the drum when it is turning

the problem could be several different things depending on the make or model. quick answer would be to replace the belt(s). after a while belts stretch and become worn. not so quick answer would be a problem with your transmission and or motor.