Question about Hotpoint Dryers
CHeck if you have 220v at the dryer. The motor is 110 the heater is 220. If you have this then you'll have to access the inside and test the voltage at the heater with the unit turned on and running. If you have voltage then at the heater your element is probably bad but sometimes there is a safety fuse or switch inside or on the element case.
If you don't have 220v at the element with it runnign the typical items are the timmer, the safety(s) switches, the opperating thermostat, the motor cintrifgal switch and there may be more. Consult your diagram for complete circutry.
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore HE4t Dryer - no heat
The usual suspect for a Kenmore HE that runs, but doesn't heat is a thermal cut-out or the thermal fuse. Although they are a bit more resilient, in some cases the heating element itself could be bad. The way to check: 1. UNPLUG THE DRYER, FIRST. 2. Remove the bottom kick plate on the front of the dryer. 3. Remove the blower fan cover directly under the lint screen. There should be a couple of 1/4" screws holding it on. 4. Directly behind the blower fan cover on top of the blower fan housing are two components. One is the operating thermostat, and the white one is a thermal fuse. The fuse is a one-shot fuse that must be replaced if it is bad. 5. To the right is the heating element housing. There are two additional components mounted on the side of the element housing. The component furthest to the back is the thermal fuse. The one one closest to you is the hi-limit thermostat. 6. Check the continuity of thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out. They both should read a short. Additionally, check the resistance of the the heating element. The element should read something low (less than 20 ohms). 7. If the thermal fuse reads open, replace it. If the thermal cut-out is bad, replace the hi-limit thermostat with it. They are usually sold as a set. If the heating element is bad, you will need to disconnect all electrical leads and remove one 1/4" screw holding the element housing to the bottom casing. Pull the entire element housing from the dryer. Depending on model, sometimes the element slide out of the housing, sometimes you will need to remove a few screws to open it up. I hope this helps you.
Posted on May 25, 2007
The following link explains how to diagnose a dryer "no heat" problem:
If you require addtional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you diagnose your problem.
Posted on Aug 12, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
I found the solution to be very informative and helpful. However, I checked the resistance of the heater element and it is about 10 ohms, and is not open. The TCO resistance is about zero. What about the thermostat? No values were given to check it for, but I did check it's resistance and it was also close to zero. The thermostat sort or "rattles" when I shake it; is that normal?
I pulled the heater element out and looked at it, and can see no visible damage. Also checked the air outlet and hose - no blockage in the hose and the air output at the dryer seems fine.
What else could be causing the dryer to not heat. Have checked at all cycles and temperature settings (low, medium and high)?
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
Check the house electrical panel for tripped dryer-circuit breaker-pair. Push off, then on. If immediately re-trips, the dryer has a dead short circuit in it. If they hold, then retry the dryer. If it now works, ok! If not, recheck the breakers as above. If tripped again, there is a likely short in the dryer's heater assembly. The drum must be removed to access the heater.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.
A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.
Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.
Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.
In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.
If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
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