Is there a bracket that goes on the back of the machine? All I see now is a hole that the hose fits into, but when I shove the hose in as far as I can, water still runs out the back of the machine. Am I missing something?
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I guess you should try the cheapr option first, and replace the fuel hose, to replace the hose first remove the air filter, now the two retaining nuts foe the filter back plate, now remove the two cross head screws in the foot of the bracket, remove the two studs that secure the carb ( 7mm ) now pull the fuel hose of the carb and put it to one side, open the fuel filler cap and drain the fuel, using a pair of long nose pliers through the filler hole grab the fuel hoseand pull it down into the tank, once through pull it out along with the filter, take a new hose, **** the pipe up the middle approx 2" and take away one half, feed the now cut end through the hole in the crankcase and into the hole in the tank, using the ling nose pliers again through the filler hole grab the hose and pull it on through, trim the end and re fit the filter.
It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occurs. Removing and Cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there is gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.
Don't bother with trying to repair the hose. For the cost of replacement, just replace it and save your time and headaches. As a temporary fix until you can get the replacement hose just tightly wrap duct tape around the hose at the leak site. As far as replacing it goes, its usually just a compression clamp which holds the hose to the fitting. A pliers is all that is required. If its a proper threaded hose clamp, the correct screwdriver will get the job done. If it is the later hose clamp, you may want to replace it with a new one. Assess it's condition for rust or a stripped band. Good luck.
Good day, If it's filled with ice, shut down machine, remove back panel, and try, with, a small glass, with very hot water, and pour thru drain hole. This procedure may have to be repeated many times until it responds properly. If this fails...... Air must be forced from the end of the drain hose (the part that goes into the drain pan) with some type of device.
Many techs use a can of compressed air with a hose and fitting that more or less fits inside the end of the drain hose.
I carry as well, a tire pump with a short section of 1/4" metal pipe clamped to the part, that will ordinarily be clamped to the tire stem. If too sloppy a fit, I wet down a rag, and wrap it around the connection. Then try pumping.
If your saying water builds under the crispers in the fresh food compartment even though you have removed the plug, then the problem would be the drain hose going to the drain pan is plugged up or kinked. If the fridge is running too cold, then there is a slight chance that area of the drain has ice in it. Mop up excess water, and pour scalding hot water into the drain hole and wait. Try that 2 or 3 times moping up each time. If no drainage starts you will have to go to the back of the machine and remove the back cover to trace where the hose goes into the drain pan. Techs usually carry a can of compressed air with a hose attached to blow the drain clean. Easy does it. Not too much pressure. If you have no access to something like that, you have the option of removing the drain hose completely, and cleaning it out in the sink, or if you have one, a tire pump with it's end jury rigged to make a good fit into the end of the drain hose will usually work P.S. If you must remove the back cover, please replace it when done. It is part of the ducting system and left off will cause the compressor to overheat.
This is joyce
I hope you have not been waiting long for this answer, go to the website lg.com dowload your document on your washer put in your model # first and then it will give you all the info you need on that machine even trouble shoot it and codes. I hope this helps.
Leaking water usually comes from hoses or connections. Be sure that water appearing to be a leak isn't drain water from a backed-up standpipe (see HERE for information on clearing clogged drains).
NOTE: To prevent serious flood damage that can occur if washing machine supply hoses burst, be sure to install "no-burst" stainless-steel mesh hoses and lever-type shutoff valves, as shown in the illustration. With these, you can easily turn off the levers for both hot and cold water between wash days.
1) Check the fittings where hoses connect to the faucets and to the back of the washing machine. Also look for worn or leaky hoses. Tighten couplings or hose clamps if necessary, or replace hoses altogether (be sure to turn the water off before removing hoses and drain them into a bucket after disconnecting them).
2) Determine whether machine is over-sudsing during wash loads-- this can cause the entire washing machine to overflow. Reduce suds by pouring a mixture of 1/2 cup of white vinegar and 1 quart water into the washer. Then switch to less detergent or use a low-sudsing variety.
3) Call a repairperson. The machine may have a faulty basket gasket or tub seal and bearing that must be replaced.