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I have a Kenmore Dryer. I've already diagnosed the problem. Its the solution that is in question. There are three metal rectangular things glued on the outside of the drum. they are roughly 5'' by 12'' and are evenly spaced on the outside of the drum. One of them came loose and has become all bent up and started hitting the sides and top of the dryer when in use. My solution was to simply remove the thing. However, I am sure it has or had some purpose? Also, one of the two remaining thingys is loose and will probably eventually do the same thing. What are they? My guess would be some sort of motion/location sensing device. Any thoughts?

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What is the model of the machine? That is somewhat common. I have seen some that do nothing at all and I have ripped them off or some are part of the moisture sensing circut. If you stick you head in the dryer and see 2 metal strips under where the door closes, inside, those are the moisture strips and you can take the glued ones off. Let me know if you need any more help

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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2 Answers

My kenmore elite dryer that i bought 2 years ago lint trap corner is catching my clothes and tearing them. we had it replaced and its doing it again. I am tired of messing with it. Please help.


don't know if you already had this fixed,usually this is caused by not having your dryer cleaned out,the lint builds up inside the duct that the lint filter slides down into and has to be removed and cleaned out.also in some of the kenmore dryer ducts there's a metal clip inside the duct that can come loose and hold the lint filter up.these are the two most likely causes for this to happen.

Sep 23, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer had a 4 prong plug, and I moved into an apt and the outlet is 3 prong I changed the plug to 3 prong and now my dryer doesnt work


I would start at the breaker (which I'm sure you 've already checked). Then if you haven't already, I would check the voltage at the outlet. For this you'll need an anolog voltohm meter or a digital multimeter. You can get the anolog version for under 20 dollars. I would go with it if you choose to do this, especially if you're not going to be using it a lot.
Dont worry if you've never used one, because I can tell you how to do it.
First take a look at the dryer outlet. You'll want to make sure it's getting the proper voltage. You should have an "L" shaped slot. That one is neutral. The other two should be rectangular shaped. Those two are the "hot." This configuration is the most common.
If you do choose to get a meter, all you have to do is set the dial to the right place, and read the display. It should have a red test lead and a black test lead. If your dryer is an electric dryer, you'll be measuring for 240 volts AC. On the meter you want to set the dial to the next highest number above 240 (probably 250). here's what to do:
1. Insert a test lead into each rectangular slot. You should get a reading around 240 volts.
2. Insert one of the test leads into a rectangular slot, the other into the "L" shaped slot. This time you'll want your meter a step above 120 volts AC. The next highest number. Take the reading, you should get around 120 volts.
3. Next do the same thing as number 2, just on the other side. (rectangle slot to neutral L shaped slot). You should also get around 120 volts.

If..... You dont get a reading for the 240 volts on the first test, you'll know that you're not getting power at the outlet.
Also, if one of the "sides" for the 120 volts shows 0 or a number thats really low, then one of the legs of the circuit breaker is tripped. When you check the circuit breaker, make sure that you turn both of them off, and then on again. You see, it uses two breakers (or fuses) that supply 120 volts to both sides of the plug, thus giving the dryer 240 volts of electricity.

Also make sure that when you hooked the 3 wires up to your dryer, that you placed the metal strip at the metal terminal and secured it with your middle wire, at the middle terminal.

You could also remove the cord and do a continuity test on it to make sure that it's not the problem. On your meter, you can use the ohms setting, set on the lowest one. wrightly.jpg
Just like this. It's usually RX1, or RX1K. If you look up at the upper left hand corner of the meter, you'll see the ohms sign. Some have a thumbwheel, that when you first turn it on, you touch the two meter leads together, if it doesnt go to 0, you use that wheel to adjust it to zero.
You can also see on the upper right hand side, the AC portion of the voltage test. You would use the 250 setting on this one to do all of the tests above.

I hope this helps you. I will be more than happy to help if you need any further assistance.
Thanks for your time,

Mike

Jul 30, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

We have a three prong cord on our kenmore dryer and our outlet is 4 prong. Is there and adapter for something like this?


You'll have to go purchase a 4-prong plug from your local hardware.
Once you have it, you will have to removed the old one and replace it with the new one. It's fairly simple.
On the back of the unit is a rectangular cover attached with a screw. Remove the screw and set plate aside.
Inside, you will see that there is a terminal with the 3-pronged cord attached. Us a socket or nut driver with a deep enough well to reach the tiny nuts on the terminal posts and remove all three nuts. DO NOT LOSE NUTS OR DROP THEM INSIDE.
Remove the old plug and discard.
Slide 4-prong cord through hole and position the 4 wires so you can get to them. The white wire will go on the middle terminal post. The red and blue wires will go on the outside terminals, doesn't matter which goes on which, just one on one outside post and the other on the other outside post. The final wire is green. This gets attached to the case of the dryer (the metal housing). Easiest way is to simply grab the rectangular cover and as you put the screw back in to secure the plate, make sure the screw goes through the green wire eyelet and is secure between the casing and the plate, thereby grounding the case.
The new 4-prong plugs and outlets are a new safety feature mandated by the government. It is meant to protect you from shock should any voltage hit the metal of the unit, it will ground through that green wire and not harm you.
If you have any further questions, feel free to contact me.
Best, G

Aug 03, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

How do I clean the lint out of the Kenmore Eite He3 past the lint screen?


Remove lint screen. Remove bottom front kick panel (usually three to four screws on very bottom front), There is a metal lint filter air duct assembly that has three to four screws holding it on. Usually one on each upper side of the duct, and one that has a bent metal bracket holding the bottom to the blower housing. This metal duct is dead center in the dryer under the door and ducts over to the bottom left. Remove the screws and pull the duct down and out. You can now clean this assembly. Needless to say, always unglug the dryer or turn it off at the circuit breaker before doing this job. I recommend that you do this at least once a year on the dryer, and clean out the washer lint and coin catcher at least once a year. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists.

Dec 20, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Need wiring diagram for kenmore dryer model: 110.92826102


Diagrams are on the inside of the back panal, under the console or in a envelope glued to the front panal.
eric

Jun 06, 2009 | Kenmore 64732 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Electric Dryer will not Heat


Define checked everything. Usually when your dryer is not heating but blowing air its one of three things...
1. Thermal fuse in dryer
2. Thermistor in the dryer
3. Heating element in dryer

You need a signal meter with continuity check to accurately test all three componets. Normally the fuse and thermistor are in a set and cost less than 25 bucks. They are easy to replace if you are good with taking things apart. If the element is bad then you need to make sure your lint trap and exhaust hose are clean and kept clean. That is the main cause of the element burning up when it gets lint collected inside the dryer cavity.

In a pinch if the element is bad you can simply find where the metal has broken and try bending the rod so that it touches. The element has to be one solid piece so if there is breaks try and connect them back together until a new one can be purchased.

Please unplug the dryer before doing anything mentioned above.

Hope this helps
TankMurdock

Apr 27, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer model 41783142300


this is an airflow problem. make sure you are using a rigid metal duct behind the machine and not a flexible one. clean out the exhaust duct behind the dryer and in the wall all the way to the  outside. any residue of lint inside these ducts will increase drying time dramatically. basically clean everywhere the air flows. 
3d9f6fc.jpg
  • if you already checked this and think it is a different problem then let me know, i will help you figure it out. 
Mike  

  • picture is from fixitnow.com

Jul 21, 2008 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

WHERE CAN I FIND A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A KENMORE ELEC DRYER MODEL 110.86692300?


THERE IS USUALLY ONE ATTACHED SOMEWHERE IN THE DRYER. TRY INSIDE THE CONSOLE, FOLDED UP AND WEDGED BETWEEN THE WIRING. ALSO, SOME DRYERS WITH A TOE PANEL ON THE FRONT, HAVE THE SCHEMATIC GLUED TO THE INSIDE OF THE TOE PANEL.
SOME OF THE OLDER DRYERS HAD IT GLUED TO THE BACK PANEL.

Apr 07, 2008 | Dryers

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