Question about Magic Chef CAV2000AWW Top Load Washer
I HAVE A MAGIC CHEF HEAVY DUTY SUPER CAPACITY PL-THRESPEED COMBO WASHER. IT IS ABOUT 14 YEARS OLD AND NOW IT IS MAKING A CRAZY NOISE WHEN GOING THROUGH THE COMPLETE WASH CYCLE. COULD IT BE THE BELT?
I AM CAN'T GET TO THE MODEL #
It sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. This is a very inexpensive and simple repair.
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
On an older model washer, you probably have a bad water valve. (hot water solenoid coil electrically " open ") Newer models, now there's a can of worms. Some models use thermistatically controled water valves to limit water temps, so you may not be able to get true hot water. Also, if you are checking the temp as the machine fills, some models will only fill with cold if the lid is open. (safety feature) The only way to see what is really going on is to fill the machine with cold and use a thermometer to check the water temp, then, pump that out and fill (with the lid closed) with hot and check to see if that temp is higher. As stated previously, water temp may not really be " HOT " but may be warmer than " COLD ". That may be as good as you will be able to do, as all manufacturers are trying to reduce energy consumption. Thank your government.
Posted on Jan 21, 2010
This problem is commonly attributed to a water inlet valve that has become clogged with sediment or calcium deposits over time. If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water, this is a common problem. You can remove the valve and attempt to clean it by soaking it in a 50/50 solution of distilled vinegar and water, or you can simply replace it all together. If you're going to go the route of removing the valve, it makes better sense to replace it, rather possibly having to repeat the steps again if cleaning the valve doesn't work. The following link explains how to access and replace one:
Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
I have found these sites to be reputable and provide great service. Prices differ between them, so shop and compare. If you do not wish to order parts on line, look up the part numbers on the Sears site and check with your nearest appliance parts retailer. These is a common part that may be commonly found in their in-store inventory. The average cost is about $30 - $35.
If you DO wish to attempt to clean the valve to save some money, submerge the valve in a 50/50 solution of distilled vinegar and hot water for about 30 minutes and flush with clean water. DO NOT submerge the electrical connections.
You may also try any number of calcium, lime and scale removers on the market. CLR comes to mind as a good product, but use in a well ventilated area. It has some very strong fumes.
If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
Testimonial: "Great advice. I will follow your clear and easy steps. Sounds like one or the other solution will be fine."
First you should remove the hoses and clean the screens in the ends of the hose, some hoses have screens in both ends. While the hoses are removed look inside the water inlet valve there should be a screen in there also remove and clean the screen out. Some screens will not be removable so you will need to clean in place or remove the water inlet valve. If all is clear you will need to check the solenoids on the water inlet valve for power.If the solenoid has power when put in a fill cycle and no water eneters your washer you will need to replace the water inlet valve. Most water inlet valves must be replaced as a unit, so if one solenoid fails you replace the hole valve assembly. These are inexpensive and easy to replace. There is a video at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html that will walk you thru the testing procedure. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same. If you need help disassembling there are also videos of disassembling most styles. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models will be available. All parts come with installation instructions.
Posted on May 20, 2010
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(pre-typed for hot AND cold!)
If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
Posted on Oct 08, 2011
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