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The single-handle faucet with a ball inside to control both hot and cold water may either leak at the spigot or at the handle. A handle leak is usually caused by improper adjusting-ring tension. Simply adjust the tension to stop the leak. Leaks at the handle can also result from a worn cam gasket. Dripping from the spigot is usually caused by worn spring-loaded, soft rubber seat assemblies.
Parts for ball-type faucets are available in kits. Get the spring/seats kit for spigot leaks, or the complete kit for handle leaks. It may be advisable to use the complete kit to replace all working parts of the faucet at the same time. In any case, you'll need a kit containing the spanner/hex wrench for removing the handle (hex end) and turning the adjusting ring (spanner end).
Without turning the water off, loosen the handle set screw. Slide the handle from its stem.
For a handle leak, try using the spanner wrench to tighten the adjusting collar. Tighten it by turning the wrench and collar clockwise until the faucet doesn't leak when it is turned on and off. If the adjustment is too loose, the faucet will leak. If you turn it too tight, the handle will be hard to move. When the adjusting ring cannot be turned with the wrench, it is corroded. At this point, you will need to remove the cap to free the adjusting ring. (See next step.) You must turn the water off before removing the cap! Apply penetrating oil to the threads, remove the ring and clean all parts before reassembling.
Install the seats. For faucet leaks at the spigot, you must install new rubber seats and springs. You must turn off the water to make this repair. Unscrew the chrome cap by turning it counterclockwise. If it won't turn easily, wrap electrical tape around the cap and turn it with pliers. The adjusting ring, which is threaded into the cap's center, will come off with it. For a seats/springs replacement, pull the ball up and out by its stem. The gasketed cam will come with it. Now you can locate the two rubber seats and springs inside the faucet body. Remove them with pliers or yours fingers and install the new ones. The springs go into the holes first, and the cupped sides of the seats fit over the springs.
Service the ball. If the ball is dirty or coated with scale, clean it or replace it with a new one. Both plastic and brass balls are available, but use a plastic one if your home has hard water.
Reassembly. Put the ball and cam back into the faucet with the slot in the side if the ball fitting over the pin in the faucet body. Then make sure the tab on the cam slips down into the notch in the body. Not aligning the tab and notch is the number one cause for a faucet leaking after it is repaired. Finally, screw on the cap and adjust the ring as described in Step 2. If a properly adjusted ball-type faucet leaks at the cap, the cam and gasket must be replaced.
Swing spouts. If a single-lever ball faucet leaks at the base, you should replace the O-rings. Remove the spout-retaining parts, as well as the spout. Wrap the spout-retaining nut with electrical tape to protect it, and remove the nut with a wrench or pliers by turning counterclockwise. Remove the spout by pulling it up and side-to-side. One or more O-rings should now be exposed. Take the O-rings to your hardware or home center store to get matching O-rings for replacement. Clean any scale that appears on the spout base, faucet body, and the inside of the swinging spout. Install the new O-rings and reverse the steps above to reassemble the faucet.
Should have o-rings remove those and lowe's,hardware,home improvement,plumbing supply stores should have what you need.Be sure to use plumbers grease or Vaseline on new o-ring and inside spout to keep from tearing new o-rings.
There are a few possibities... if you remove the lid and take the two t20 screw off the left side panel at the front you could check the pressure chamber and its hose are not blocked. Use the link and go to page 4, part 0426 and 0424. You can also remove 0418 (remove t20 screw via the sump after all filters are removeds) this will expose the pump impellor and you can check for any obstruction. If the d/w is connected via a sealed spigot to the sink, remove the grey hose and unscrew the spigot adaptor from the sink and ensure there are no blockages. There may be water in the base of the d/w (base as below the tank, not under the filter) this will activate the flood safety, so check valve, hoses etc for leaks. You will have to manually clear the water from the base pan to deactivate the safety device. Sit the front of the d/w on a large towel and tip the whole unit forward, the base water will then come out. Whilst you have the side panel off, check that the red rod connected to the pressure chamber is not activating the microswitch. https://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop(bD1lbiZjPTAwOQ==)/bosch/gb/prodp.htm?prod=DW44ZS%2f21&ESHOPTYPE=S
There are a few possibities... if you remove the lid and take the two t20 screw off the left side panel at the front you could check the pressure chamber and its hose are not blocked. Use the link and go to page 4, part 263834 and 361113. You can also remove 165263 (remove t20 screw via the sump after all filters are removeds) this will expose the pump impellor and you can check for any obstruction. If the d/w is connected via a sealed spigot to the sink, remove the grey hose and unscrew the spigot adaptor from the sink and ensure there are no blockages. There may be water in the base of the d/w (base as below the tank, not under the filter) this will activate the flood safety, so check valve, hoses etc for leaks. You will have to manually clear the water from the base pan to deactivate the safety device. Sit the front of the d/w on a large towel and tip the whole unit forward, the base water will then come out. Whilst you have the side panel off, check that the red rod connected to the pressure chamber is not activating the microswitch. https://www.bosch-eshop.com/eshop(bD1lbiZjPTAwOQ==)/bosch/gb/prodp.htm?prod=SHU6802UC%2f12&ESHOPTYPE=S
ps I appreciate the link is not for your model but the part placing should be the same. I hope this helps, Good Luck.
If the water cooler is more than 10 years old, the cathodic rod is probably all used up and the tank itself is taking a big hit with corrosion. Replace the water heater if the above is true. Otherwise on newer tanks, pull the heating element access panels, scoot aside the insulation, and look for leaks. Look for leaks at the spigot and at the top connections. For gas units, look for leaks only at the plumbing connections. Gas heaters might last 15 years before replacement is needed.
Sometimes, depending on the type of the spigot, you can unscrew the valve from inside the spigot. There would be a hex nut immediately under the part where the handle on the valve stem comes out. BE CAREFUL: Outside spigots rarely have independent shut-offs (ie, in order to work on it, you will have to shut off the main water supply). Once you start down this path, you need to be fairly certain there is a replacement available for your type of spigot. If you remove the valve, there is no assurance that you will be able to get the original back in without making the leak worse. Please have an emergency back-up plan in place.
Where the spout pivots on the main body, there are a couple of washers, you can replace these washers pretty easily by removing the handle and then the "cover" from the unit. The water has to be shut off before you do this. I would take this oppurtunity to replace all the washers.
I have a Farberware L1360 with the same problem . If there is water in the pot , in about an hour a nice little puddle forms . It is leaking right where the spigot attaches to the body of the pot. I can see a rubber washer squeezing out around this spot. Maybe It melted? I think it needs some heat resistant washer to replace it. Farberware co. doesnt really exist anymore. you can barely get parts. If the spigot itself works, mine does. I can't see buying a new one if it just needs a washer. Does anyone know what type of washer would be a good replacement?