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Re: Size of boxes
Wow you are in luck, I used to be an Audiobahn dealer. Designing sub enclosures is my fulltime job. So here you go.-
If you are looking for sound that is very smooth, and has a very low end shaking everything setting off car alarms. You will need a PORTED BOX that is 3 CUBIC FEET FOR EACH SUB WOOFER. It actually calls for 2.7cu.ft but after you add speaker displacement and bracing it should be at least 3 cu.ft. The port can be either round or square made of plastic or 3/4" wood respectively. My port suggestions are dependent on how much space you have. The shortest round port might make some noise (too much pressure!). So think about that first. Anyway the short port is 3" diameter and 15.5" long. The longer port is 4" in diameter and 28.25" long. The rectangular wood port can also be either (port measurements are inside diamensions) 3" w x 3" w x 18.5" long (short port) or 2 w x 10.5 h x 48' long. The second longer wood port is recommended most but will take up a lot of space. The fact that you have to subtract the port volume from the box makes for space issues in cars. Also the second wood port sounds better and won't make much wind noise, but takes up .75 cu.ft worth of space. So in plain english your box will have to have an internal volume of 3.75cu.ft. An example of this could be made of 3/4" thick MDF, have 1" x 1" internal bracing and measure (box dimensions are external and assumes the use of 3/4" MDF) 12" h x 18" w x 30" deep. The port is an integral part of the box fitting inside. I'm sorry I can't provide any drawings to make things easier. Now this box size is one that I ran through a computer program I use. So it is not the same as the manufactures recommendations. I will list those as well.
The second box is an example using a round short port and also uses 3/4" MDF, 1 x 1" bracing, the 3" dia x 15.5" long port, and measures 12" x 18" x 24" externally.
If space is an issue try checking out the information below. -I got it from Audiobahn-
If for some reason it doesn't show up or you need assistance let me know. Good luck and enjoy your new setup-I'm sure you'll be happily disturbing the peace soon!
Model # AW1006T
Air Space (Cu. Ft.) 0.65
Port Size (Inches) 2 x 6.5
Port Vel. (%) 48.31
-3dB (Hz) 31.5
Tune Freq. (Hz) 40
Sub Disp. (Cu. Ft.) 0.21
Port Disp.(Cu. Ft.) 0.01
Total Vol. (Cu. Ft.) 0.75
Air Space (Cu. Ft.) 1.4
Port Size (Inches) 3 x 6.75
Port Vel. (%) 24.19
-3dB (Hz) 30
Tune Freq. (Hz) 39
Sub Disp. (Cu. Ft.) 0.21
Port Disp.(Cu. Ft.) 0.024
Total Vol. (Cu. Ft.) 1.5
Air Space (Cu. Ft.) 2.4
Port Size (Inches) 4 x 6.25
Port Vel. (%) 14.39
-3dB (Hz) 29
Tune Freq. (Hz) 39
Sub Disp. (Cu. Ft.) 0.21
Port Disp.(Cu. Ft.) 0.04
Total Vol. (Cu. Ft.) 2.5 EBP 74 80 80
Sealed NR NR NR
Minimum (Cu. Ft.) 0.5
Maximum (Cu. Ft.) 1 SPL (dB) 80
All sealed boxes already include the displacment for the subwoofer. NR = (Not Recommended)
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The box recommendation should be in your manual for the sub. It will tell you optimal box size. and preferd box style. if you dont have a manual you can find one online. or even by writing the company.
Do some research on the model of subwoofer and find the recommended box size, subwoofers need the correct box size to work to its full potential, and size in meaning the volume of space inside the box so if you cant fit your box in your trunk cut it down to the size you need but make it bigger as much as you took of if you have more room say in night for eg.i hope the heaps otherwise there is so much online about sub enclosures.
First, I would purchase the amp based on the subwoofers alone. Allow unit power to run the 6x9's unless you are planning a intricate setup. Things to think about when buying your amplifier. Always get an amp that offers an RMS output of 25-30% greater than the combined RMS output of your subs. Also, the stability of the amp to handle ohms loads (1, 2, or 4 ohm stable). If you have two dual 4 ohm subs you can get a 2 channel 2 ohms stable amp, or a monoblock 1 ohm stable amp. This will get you the most power and sound for your buck. There are so many amplifiers out there at different price levels, it's really up to you. Hope this helps.
The car falling apart is a NO. But if you want a lot of Boomy Bass, then make sure to make a ported box for your sub woofer and give it the power it needs. If i knew the exact model i would tell you the size of box and amount of power you would need to amplify it.
For optimal performance there is really only one size for the box .Firstly, you get two different types of subwoofers, an open air, or closed air sub. If it is an open air sub ( hole with mesh in the center of the magnet) no ports are required, and the box should be sealed on the inside with silicone sealant. If it is a closed air sub ( no hole in the magnet) you need a 50mm port about 120mm long. Box size will be 13 inches x 13 inches x 13 inches
On the amplifier side, I will need the wattage, and frequency of the speaker to tell you what amp you will need.
Subwoofers differ in only one way. You get an "Open Air" and a "Closed air" subwoofer, That being said, you'll have to check on your magnet which one you have to make the boxes for that sub. If it is an "Open air" Subwoofer, you should see a "wire mesh" or "grid" in the centre, at the back of the magnet. If it is a "Closed air", the magnet will be solid with no hole whatsoever.
If it is a "Open air" sub, your boxes should be sealed with silicone, and no ports are to be cut in your box.
With "Closed air" subs, you should have 2 ports below your sub and the port sizes should be around 50mm in diameter. You should start with a 100mm long piece in the one box and add 50mm increments to "tune" the port up to 250mm, depending on the frequency of bass you require.
On a 15 inch subwoofer ranging between 80Hz and 120Hz, the box size required should be around 27 liters, meaning that you will end up with a box of 16 inches high, x 16 inches wide, x 16 inches deep. Or 320mm high, x 320mm wide, x 320mm deep. Enjoy!
Dual 4 ohm subwoofers can only be wired @ 1 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm.
2 ohm mono load is not possible.
You will need to use (1) subwoofer to get the 1000W out of the amp.
Wire both positives on one sub to + on amplifier and both - on the same sub to - on amplifier to give the amplifier a 2 Ohm load.
Add a second amplifier, or buy an amplifier that is 1 ohm mono stable.
You can wire both to the amplifier at 4 ohms 600W, but they will share the power and only see 300W ea.