Question about Kitchen Ranges

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I need to change the bottom element but the wires with the stacon fell back into the insulation, how can i retrieve them

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Please give the model number?

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Unplufg the power and remove the panels to get the wires.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 08, 2009

    Unplug the power cord or trip the circuit breakers and remove the panels to get the wires.
    If you give me the model number printed on the service tab, I can see if there is a disassembly diagram available.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 08, 2009

    If the problem is that the wires are inside the rubber cover, just make the wires shorter, and if needed add an extension.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a rheem warrior glass water heater serial no rh1199629294 model no 71-308 i need to know where the reset button is please?


You should have an access plate on top and at bottom. Before removing the covers, turn off the breaker that controls the water heater. Now unscrew the top cover. There may be some insulation covering the thermostat (the control that shows the temperature to heat the water to). Move any insulation out of the way and you should see a red button on the front of the thermostat. Press the button. You may feel a click, you may not. Now go over and turn the breaker back on and listen to the heater. KEEP HANDS AND EVERYTHING CLEAR OF THE THERMOSTAT IN THE OPENING.
Do you hearing gurgling or whining? This would indicate it is heating water. If you hear it, turn the breaker back off and put any insulation back in and replace the access cover. Go back and turn on the breaker and you are done. If you didn't hear anything now it is time to pull the lower access cover. Make sure the breaker is off and remove the lower cover. Repeat by removing insulation and pressing the button. Test by turning on the circuit breaker REMAINING AWAY FROM THE ACCESS.
If this time you hear hissing/gurgling/whining sounds it is on. Turn off the breaker, replace the insulation and replace the access. Now turn the breaker back on and you are done. If after all this you get nothing. It is time for a voltmeter and caution.
YOU ARE GOING TO WORK WITH HIGH AMPERAGE AC-IT IS DEADLY. RESPECT EVERYTHING YOU TOUCH AS IF IT WERE HOT.
HAVE SOMEONE WITH YOU WHO CAN FLIP THE BREAKER IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE. THEY SHOULDNT TOUCH YOU UNTIL THE BREAKER IS OFF OR THEY COULD ALSO BE ELECTROCUTED.
You will need to remove each access door (with the circuit breaker off) and make it to where you can test for voltage on the power connections to the elements. Start at the bottom as this is the initial element powered by the unit. Put your voltmeter on a high scale (500VAC is good but it must be set to minimum 300VAC-High is fine-lower is bad) and put your probes on the 2 phillips head screws/bolts that the electrical wires connect on. You should see apx 220-240 VAC. If not, test from one screw to the metal fame of the tank where you see the green wire bolted to. You should see 110-120 VAC. If no voltage is at the bottom, the top reset isn't working. Try resetting the top thermostat again. Test for voltage at bottom. No luck? It may be time to replace the top thermostat/control. All major hardware stores sell them. Disconnect the wires and it should slide up and off the unit. Replace it.
If there is voltage at the bottom then the element is most like gone bad. To test this, turn off the breaker and unhook one of the screws that holds the power wire to one side of the element. Put your voltmeter on Ohms and test for a connection (continuity). If it shows a reading the element may be working or it may just have a small connection internally and fail when it is powered up. This is a tough one to diagnose outside the tank but if you see no connection (no reading) the element has broken in the tank and removal and replacement is in order. Turn off the water to the tank along with the breaker. Connect a garden hose to the valve at the bottom of the tank and drain the water out. Disconnect the wires and with a large element removal tool (you might get away with a large channel lock but if you round off the element you will hate yourself) remove the element. You can get the remover at the hardware stores for $8-10. The elements usually have their wattage on the end so replace it with the same wattage element. Reverse the process and lastly turn on the water, check for leaks then turn the circuit breaker back on. You should hear a hissing/gurgling/whining sound as the element heats up. good luck and BE SAFE!

Apr 01, 2011 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The small oven will not get hot. we called viking service and he said the wire on the bottom element came off and fell through the hole in the back of the oven. this seems impossible to me since we never...


yes you will discover a panel I just don't know how big the panel is and how big to cut the hole. If it were me I would try to pull the range out and work on it. If that is imposible to do without damage then cut a hole big enough to see the panel so you know where to cut and how big the panels are more towards the bottom make sure powere is off at the breaker first

Nov 19, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Lower Heat Element in Kenmore Oven


Hey- Disconnect power. pull back cover to access wires for element. Re-connect wires and loosely re-position insulation. Reinstall back cover and chk operation.- Hope this helps- ED

Oct 07, 2009 | Kenmore 73053 Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Need to replace the heating element on the bottom of the oven - how do I remove the element to take to appliance parts store


First, unplug the unit. Look inside oven. Where the element goes through the back, there will ba a base with two screws. Take them out and pull easy on the element. It will come out to where you will see where the wires plug on to the element. Take ele. tape and put a piece on each wire before you unplug them. You will need this so you can pull them back into the oven with the tape when your ready to plug your new one up. If you dont put the tape on the wires, they will end up going into the back of the range and you will then have to take the back off to retrieve them. Wrap tape around wire a few times and then leave a 4 or 5" tag so you will be able to pull them out of the back.
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Sep 02, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Replacing heating element in oven-connecting wires fell back in


hey sorry about that,as a repair man i hold on to those babies like crazy.almost all ovens i worked on [its many]the rear wall dose not come apart.if yours dose great go that way.but other wise yes you have to go thru the back.i would try fishing abit more before i pulled it out if was me.God bless,tom

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Bake element split and oven will not heat.


thats an eazy one by a new element from one off our links at fixya and install it with the power off and no theres no reason why this happened it just wore out God bless,tom

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JBP66G W1AD Oven won't get hot enough


the yellow may be the oven temp sensor?

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