Washing machine, kitchenaid, found brass looking pin w/hole in en
Just found a cotter pin looking thing in the washing machine casing, it has a hole in one end of it as if to keep something together, problem was agitator not moving, already replaced the dogs, still wasn't moving. WHERE DOES THIS PIN GO AND DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THIS COULD POSSIBLEY BE WHY WE CAN'T GET IT TO WORK.??? Thanks in advance, SOMEONE HELP
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: washing machine, kitchenaid, found brass looking pin...
No,there are two such pins in the machine for shipping purposes only when it is shipped out,they drop out into little plastic cups under the machine after delivery,
If it doesn't spin or agitate check the coupler located between the motor and gear box consists of three pieces two are plastic one on the motor and one on the gear box the other connects the two in the center it is rubber. If it spins but doesn't agitate,most likely a bad gear case.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
They were part of the shipping hardware when you machine was new they,the rest of the shipping braces were removed and discarded when it was delivered/brough home but they stay in the base and cause no problem or need to replaced or anything
Have you ever been there??? Been where you ask??? Well been at the end of a job with just one screw left to be installed as a last and final touch to a door skin or some other type of trim molding and found the hole was stripped out and the screw you have to put into the hole is "swimming" in the hole due to it being oversized? you try using a self tapper screw and same results too loose not dependable to secure anything appreciable. Ok I have a quick and easy savior for all you guys out there in mechanicsville. Go into your tool box or small parts/screw cabinet and pull out a cotter pin and that same self tapping screw that is a bit smaller then the stripped out hole, bend the cotter pin out straight and form an "L" shape with it...insert the small L angle shape into the hole... then with a little finess work the self tapping screw into the hole at the same time allowing the screw to be buffered off the cotter pin on the side of the hole, thread the screw into the hole holding the cotter pin steady and "Walla" screw goes down tighter then it ever fit before, if need be get your dykes and clip off the excess cotter pin material left outside the hole. Hope this works for you. Happy Motoring!!
My wife has the same model and the planetary unit fell off shortly after we bought it. Since we had moved overseas to a remote pacific island, getting it fixed under warranty was out of the question.
Since the rotary unit is a pressue fit, I pressed it back into place and it worked fine for about 3 months before I had to repeat the process. After that it became a monthly ritual.
I finally decided to fix it for good. What I did was drill a 3/8" hole in the center of the nub in the middle of the inverted rotary cover plate. I then drilled a 5/16" pilot hole in the center of the grooved shaft that the rotary cover plate presses onto. I then tapped that hole with a 18 NC tap. I was careful to tap it just a little shy of the depth of the cap screw that I was going to insert into the threaded hole so that it would jam as I tightened it. I then greased all the gears with a white machine grease and pressed the roary cover plate back onto the shaft. I then put a washer on a 5/16"-18 x 1" socekt head cap screw and clamped the thing together. It hasn't come off in the last 2 years.
While I am moderately skilled in this sort of thing it wasn't a precision operation. Since I was living in a fairly remote location with no shop, I did the entire operation on the kitchen counter using a handheld electric drill. Probably the hardest part was determining how deep to tap the shaft. I did it by trial and error. You can adjust the depth by using a washer or two of varying thicknesses.
I'm really surprised how lame a design using a press fit for this assembly is. They could easily prevent the problem by using my approach or even putting a cotter pin through the shaft and reciever tube in the rotary cover plate (a small hole would be needed in the side of the tube to set the cotter pin).
From what I've seen on the internet while looking for a solution, this is a fairly pervasive problem.
We thought we were buying a high quality machine that we thought would be reliable in our remote situation. Fortuantely, other than the falling rotary cover issue, the machine has worked great.
I have the same cotter pin in a hole under my 130 - I've got blow apart pics for the whole thing and they show the cotter pin just sitting there not holding anything in so I just assumed it was there for the purpose of letting oil out!!
The pin is a shipping pin and serves no purpose after the machine is set up. These machines comes with a plastic strap through the back panel to hold components in place for shipping. There are plastic cups that the pins fall into after the strap is pulled.
Ignore the pin.
Your no spin problem is a stripped out direct drive coupling between the motor and transmission.
It is a easy fix.
Use the attached video as reference to change out the part.
This is an easy one to solve. Those are moving pins , when in transport. When it is delivered, the delivery people simply just pull on some straps and the pins fall in the cup. You need to keep these when moving washer to put back in, so not to damage anything.
Get some stainless cotter pins at an equipment and feed store and see if it works with that or other linkage set up. Get some rubber-jawed locking pliers and poly rope in there to help you figure things out.
oh yea sounds like there still in there alright!!!, tip the unit back if possible and give a look underneath, you see2 or 3( depending on model) plastic tubes approx 2in long mounted to the under carriage around the base. They are there for the sole purpose of "catching" the cotter pins after pulling the rip cord. there should be a cotter pin in each of the tubes. if you see any empty ones look directly above it and youll find the pin, you may have to manually grab the cotter pin to release it withe a set of needle nose pliers or something but the definitely need to be removed.
It's a nasty twisty thing, my dear. It happens in just about every machine. The only thing you can do to be absolutely sure is to put those thin t-shirts in a pillow case, Strap it closed with one of those "what's those hand-cuffy things called" things? and pray you don't get small pin-sized holes in your pillow case.