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Ice on the outside coil !

I've replaced the defrost board and now I'm still getting ice on it, and the test pin will not send it in defrost ?

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  • Goodman Master
  • 903 Answers

Sounds like a heat pump.
The board should have a way to set the frequency of defrost cycles.
The unit should check the temp of the coil sensor when going into defrost. If its at the correct temp., it goes into defrost mode. If not, it will go into defrost for about 30 seconds and then back into the heat mode. I would look into the sensor. It is usually located on the inside of the outside coil at the bottom. Usually has 2 wire leading to it. It will probably be wrapped in some type of insulation tape.
Good Luck and I hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Ge side by side refrigerator freezes then immediately thaws


replace the evaporator thermistor located on the top of this coil behind the inside freezers rear cover panel,it looks like a small 22 caliber bullet and has 2 small white wires protruding from the one end,this reads the evaporator coil temperature info and determines when to defrost the evaporator coil,a good way to test it is to open the control board in the rear of the unit unplug the upper right J1 connector and measure pin 1 and 5 for resistance of approximately 16,000 ohms when the thermistor is un-clipped off the evaporator and immersed into a glass of ice water for at least 5 minutes prior

Nov 15, 2012 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

What is er dh?


The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.

Dec 18, 2010 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Coleman php030h1321a UNIT RUNS OUTSIDE, BUT NO HEAT INSIDE. I JUST HAD TO DE-ICE THE COILS (ALL 3 SIDES) outside. It started back with the heat for 2 hours and cut back to throw recycled cool air back into...


It sounds like you have a bad defrost board or defrost sensor.
Will the unit defrost on its own?
If you take the panel off and find the defrost board, there is two pins labeled test or speed up.
Take a screwdriver or something and touch these two pins together with the unit running in heating and hold it for about 10 to 15 seconds to see if it will go into defrost. If it does then the board is OK.
Next you need to check to see if you have a coil sensor by looking on the board at the wires you will see that the wires are labeled on the board. Two of the wires should be labeled either coil or sensor.
Some of the sensors are thermistors and some are switches.
If it is a switch then you can disconnect the two wires and put a jumper across the two terminals labeled coil or sensor and with the unit running in heating and touching the speed up pins together and holding it for a few seconds and if it goes into defrost you have a bad sensor.
If it is a thermistor you can’t do this because you need a certain ohms resistance across the terminals, it won‘t hurt anything if you do jump the two terminals, it just won‘t go into defrost.
If no sensor then you have a timed defrost you should see a jumper wire and some pins labeled 30 - 60 or 90 meaning minutes. If the jumper is on 90 then move it to 60 or 30 and see if this will help this board also has the speed up jumper. With the unit running in heating by touching the two pins together it should go into defrost, if not the defrost board is bad.
If the board checks out OK then you also could be low on refrigerant.

Jan 08, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Carrier heat pump is icing up and doesn't seem to be defrosting.


Hi, On this model of heat pump, you will have a defrost board with termination times on the face of them. There will be 1 wire plugged into one of the times, such as 15 min., 30 min., and 45min. I just wanted to let you know this and this is what determines the start and stop of defrost. You also could have a defrost timer/ defrost relay and will have a defrost thermostat located on the liquid line on the condenser coil that will also start this process if needed. This is called time and temp. defrost. On the board, there is a test point on it and will tell you on the schematic how to test this board and put it into a defrost mode very quickly just by pulling a certain marked wire plugged onto a pin and placing it on a different marked pin. This way the service tech doesn't have to set and watch for 45 min.This you can try and see if it does go into a defrost mode.If you can manually put it into a defrost, you will need a new board, as it is not going into defrost in automatic.If it doesn't, you also have a faulty board. Being that heat-pumps have so many components on them, it is difficult to walk you through all components.Heat-pumps also have 2 TXV on them (metering devices) that meter freon into the coils 1 for heat and 1 for cooling.When you are in the heat mode, the condenser coil becomes the evaperator coil with the use of the reversing valve.What actually defrosts the coil, is when it goes into defrost, the reversing valve goes into the cooling mode sending hot gas to defrost the coil.You can try and check the board if indeed it is new enough to use a defrost board and not a timer.You can look through the window of the timer also if the unit is older to see if it is moving like a clock.If not, it is more then likely your problem.You will know when it goes into defrost as the steam from the melting ice starts to rise the unit appears to be on fire. I have had calls on this. The condenser fan also stops during defrost. A faulty TXV or expansion valve as I mentioned early on if plugged or not metering can cause this also. So, I am telling you there are some things you can check on your own, and without the proper tools and freon gauges, it would be very difficult to check every componanent without being onsight. Carrier has been around for many , many years and there units are of very good quality as is Day & Night And Bryant. But, check to see if you have the board, and if you can do the tests I have asked of you. A board can be ordered on line or purchased at an appliance parts store. Please let me know what is going on with your progress. Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
PS (9 times out of 10, the defrost board is at fault or timer which ever you have.These units are difficult to trouble shoot without being onsight. Good Luck, and please let me know.

Dec 07, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

We have a Kenmore Elite Trio that keeps giving us an error message in the electronic window of er dH


The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.


http://knol.google.com/k/fixing-the-er-dh-code-on-kenmore-elite-trio#

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Aug 30, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Er dh code error on Kenmore elite trio


The Er DH error code indicates the temperature sensor on the evaporator coil did not reach 50 degrees within one hour.
This would indicate the control board did put the refrigerator through a defrost cycle.

This problem could be caused by a defective relay on the control board, a defective defrost heater, a broken wire to the heater, or a stopped up drain on the defrost pan causing ice to form on the evaporator coil.

Before replacing the control board, someone should remove the food from the freezer, remove the freezer drawer, and remove the evaporator cover to expose the evaporator coil, heater, and defrost sensor.
The voltage to the defrost heater should be 120 volts ac.
The defrost heater is part of the evaporator coil and is not replaceable as a separate part.

You can test the operation of the defrost system by pressing "Ultra Ice" and "colder freezer temp" for 3 seconds.
The first time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and open the damper.

All displays should be on.


The second time you press and hold the buttons the board will test the compressor, fan, and close the damper.

The third time you press and hold the buttons, the board will turn the compressor and fan off and turn the defrost heater on for around 25 minutes. This would let you know if the defrost system is working.


http://knol.google.com/k/fixing-the-er-dh-code-on-kenmore-elite-trio#

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Out side unit will not go into defrost cycle


most likely a bad temp sensor on the outdoor coil. you are seeing ice so its cold enough to defrost but the sensor is not seeing ice so it doesn't. usually a generic 3/8 or 1/2 clamp on sensor will fix. you can freeze the sensor with a little r22 and it should close and fall into defrost or jump it and it has to proof closed and the unit should defrost. if you jump it you may have to speed up the board to diagnose. usually jumping test pins together throws it into a 5 sec in 20 seconds out cycle. kind of like turning a 24 hour days into 24 seconds. or to protect the board you can just find the sensor pull it, replace it and watch what happens next cold night. good luck

Nov 10, 2008 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Condenser frost's up on my heat pump


On a heat pump the system reverses during the heat cycle to bring in outside heat that will cause the outside coils to ice up. There is a defrost timer or pc board to send the unit into defrost every so often. This is a common problem with heat pumps or possibly low or refrigerant. Heat pumps will freeze up at low outside temps, but unless your in the Artic right now that shouldn't be a problem.

Sep 27, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

LG GR S462QVC


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.


The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.

A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.

The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.

There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.

The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.

If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..

May 14, 2008 | Kenmore 53542 / 53544 Side by Side...

1 Answer

Heat Pump was repaired and then went out again


Repairman fixed a wire? sounds a little vague. If the outside coil is covered with ice, then it may be the board. Most defrost boards have a test terminal on them. Touch something to the test posts and see if the reversing valve switches on and the unit starts defrosting. If nothing happens, then its the board. There could be much more things causing it not to work, but I need more info.

Feb 28, 2008 | Amana PTH123B25AJ Heat Pump Air...

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