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this seems to be a duty cycle of the type of welder you may have,the other thing im thinking you need to be in continious cycle mode ,theere should be a switch allowing continious cycle also the main switch should be on ac mode for welding aluminum. the tungsten should be 1% with a green paint on the end .you mention you have to scratch to restart the welder you have might need a high frequency box of its own that also hooks to the welding machine, small amp welders have small duty cycle which means it will shut down if its getting over worked or hot good luck
I think you mean you have a Miller Synchrowave 200.
Typically, you would want to use AC below about 250 amps. In this case (to keep it simple), use AC, adjust your balance to about 4, use an 1/8" pure tungsten, pure argon at about 20CFh, and set the panel at 170amps to get things started. For general purpose, use 4043 filler.
Now - these are just generic settings, but they will get you going.
What type of weld are you trying to do? A Fill weld?
Are you trying to fill a V in-between two pieces of hard steel, (Carbon), that is 3 inches thick?
1. If you are, the electrode should be held at a 90 degree angle to the metal. Straight up, and down.
Moving the electrode too fast will cause a intermittent bead. Slow down. TIG welding takes time. It isn't like ARC welding. If the electrode burns off to one side, you don't have the electrode in the correct position.
2.Too little heat, (Amperage) will make a 'Cold' weld, and you won't have the penetration that you need. Too much gas (Argon) will do this also. Too little gas, and you'll burn through.
TIG TORCH MAY NOT BE RATED AT THAT AMPERAGE .MIGHT BE BETTER TO USE 1/8 PURE TUNGSTEN. BLACK RESIDUE MAY BE CAUSED THE CORROSION OF COPPER GUTZ DURING WELING ,DO TO INTENSE HEAT. OR MAYBE CAUSED BY FAILURE TO CLEAN METAL AND/OR DIPPING THE TUNGSTEN.
TIG weding is next to brain surgery as far as CLEAN goes.
You must get your AL clean, either by 1. Clean with a NEW Stainless Steel brush or 2. by using a chemical from the welding house that is made just for that.
Your cup must be clean and your gas flowing at the right amount,no leaks in o-rings or hoses.
Hold your cup more vertical and keep your filler rod in the gas shield always,no in and out movement.
In short you must get everything perfect to get quality Heliarc Al welds.
Good luck, HowardRoark
I think I can help you do this, let's start with the general and you can ask questions if we don't cover everything you need.
The HF251D connects to the welding machine using 3 cables, you connect the Electrode terminal on the welding machine (the Lincoln) to the Electrode In terminal inside the HF251. Connect the Work terminal on the Lincoln to the Work In/Out inside the HF251, also connect the work (ground) clamp of your torch to this terminal. Be careful to select the correct size cables for the maximum current you intend to weld with.
The 3rd cable is the gray 14 pin round control cable that comes out the back of the HF251, it needs to be plugged into your Lincolns RMT14 socket. You'll also need to make sure that the Lincoln is set for remote control, this is usually a switch on the front panel. I'm pretty sure that the remote control cables have a standard pin layout, but we can check this by comparing the specs in both owners manuals.
After that you connect the torch and gas bottle to the HF251, start the Lincoln, and TIG weld until you're happy.
I've got a manual for the HF251 and can get a shop manual for it if we need it. What I'm not sure about is your Lincoln - what model is it exactly?
I think most of the older Craftsman welders were made by Century which is now owned by Lincoln Electric Company. If this is a wire feed welder you adjust the wire feed speed so that the arc sounds like eggs frying, the voltage setting (if any) will depend on the thickness of the material you're trying to weld. If it's a stick welder there will just be a current range control that you set depending on the thickness and type of material you're welding.