Your large Hobart dealers and service centers are familiar with the ITW (Illinois Tool Works) family which Hobart is a part of. Another Hobart or Miller part purchasing option includes Matheson Tri-Gas in over 50 cities across the USA and Matheson is also on 5 continents around the world.
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Check your idle control module,
take the roof off of your welder, located at the top right of the inner control panel, it is the little red box with multiple white leads connected to it and labeled with alphabet letters.
pull the connectors, insure they are clean, reconnect them, start your welder and see if that corrects the problem, if not, you will need to purchase a new idle control module
check the leads and connectors at the idle control solenoid, make sure they are making good contact, and are not damaged, if you can apply 12 volts to the leads coming out of the solenoid, you can also apply voltage to the solenoid with a std 9 volt radio battery. if the solenoid checks out, when voltage is applied across the leads the center metal plunger should pull in.
remove the top cover, not knowing your exact model, you will see either a black or red idle control module, it is square and anchored to the front control panel, has 5 wires connected to it, each connection point designated by a letter of the alphabet, module failure is the most common reason for loss of auto idle control
If the vehicle is equipped with dual climate control system ir : seperate temperature control for the passenger and driver and the speed is non-adjustable then the issue is with the high speed control relay module. This is under the right passenger compartment and located behind the blower motor slightly to the left and has 6 or 7 pin connector. They are typically called blower motor resistors. the factory blower speed contro; module is held to the heater control box using plastic welds so there is a need for 2 8 millimeter self taping screws when replacing the unit. The unit (module) cost is roughly $48.00 at AutoZone and is not very difficult to replace.
Check for proper placement of all springs & linkage on carb / throttle. One of those springs and/or linkage pieces is largely responsible for idling UP the engine so that it will be able to operate the welder & generator. If it won't idle up, it won't work right.
Probably your machines just overloaded; the engine will run and produce voltage but no weld output.Check your fuses F1 and F2, if they are open replace them. Both fuses are located at left hand side of machine, open it and you will find them on the bracket.
If the idle is not working, then it is either you idle solenoid attached to the carberator or your idle board is bad. If you apply 12Vdc to the idle solenoid is should move, if not then the solenoid is shot, no good. If it works then you idle board is bad. Also, check to see if you are 60Hertz by measuring at the outlet with a frequency meter. I recommend a Fluke meter. You should have 120Vac and 60HZ at the outlet. If the frequency is low then your engine speed needs to be increased. The idle solenoid could be causing all these problems.
Hi there, This sounds like your idle control module has gone bad. Since the machine will rev up to weld speed if you turn the switch to high it can't be that the solenoid has gone bad. Some models of engine driven welders from Miller use a little module, others have the idle circuit built into the control board, can't tell which yours is without a model number. This problem could also indicate a broken current transformer since letting the unit heat up makes things better. I'd use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the CT while it was cold to see if it goes from open circuit to just a few Kohms of resistance when it gets "room temp".