Question about Hayward 1.5 Hp Northstar High Performance Pump

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Can't get Hayward Northsar motor back in housing. The Seal Plate ring seems to make it imposible to reseat the motor in the housing. Any tips on doing this. I took it out to check the impeller and now I can't get the darn thing back together.

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  • brian145 Mar 11, 2009

    Thanks,



    Did get it back in the other day but still didn't work. Found out impeller was stripped. Got a new one and everything is fine.

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Calm down buddy!! Did the seal plate o-ring expand. If it did not expand too much, Try using sum petoleum jelly dont go heavy. On the o-ring and the housing where it is going to slide up against. If it did expand. your going to have to get a new seal plate o-ring. <Secret> ONLY IF YOU WANT TO.. :) What I do, when I dont have a spare O-ring. Snip off the exess potion, NOT TO MUCH. clean off the cut area and super glue it back together.. Order yourself a new one too.. Great pump but one of the bad things that happen with Nort-star pumps.. <another secret> While pump off you can just stick your fingers in their to take out the debri next time.. have a good one buddy

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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1 Answer

I replaced impeller and can't replace the housing cover


The lock ring must be placed over the center of the motor before both the electrical and the seal plate and mounting bracket are assembled. When putting the pump back together the ring needs to be on the pump side of the motor support bracket.



These pumps can be a major pain to put together. If there is enough "leash" on the wiring, I undo the suction and pressure side unions (where the pipes attach to the pump) and stand the pump on its nose so gravity helps the motor ass\'y slide into the pump housing. Use lots of magic lube on the o-ring and inside the housing.



The Northstar pumps are hard on motors. In my experience, three to four years is the common time frame for motor failure. Typically a motor should be expected to last 8-10 years.

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1 Answer

Replace usq1202 pump


It looks like since you have a square flange motor you have either a Tri-Star, a Maxflo II pump or other model by Hayward.. Either way the process is very similar.
Replace the seal, o-rings and gaskets with new ones. Use a teflon based lubricant on all rubber parts, including the seal, but try not to get any on the ceramic (white ring).
  1. Shut power off at the breaker.
  2. Remove the bolts connecting the motor plate to the pump housing.
  3. Back motor assembly out of pump housing making sure that the diffuser and its gasket also come out.
  4. Disconnect the electrical supply.
  5. Remove the diffuser if still covering the impeller, (there may or may not be screws to remove).
  6. Remove impeller ring (if one).
  7. Holding the impeller firmly remove the impeller screw. This is in the center of the impeller and has a REVERSE THREAD, meaning turn screw clockwise to loosen.
  8. Remove the end cap on the opposite end of the motor and use a 9/16" open end wrench to hold the shaft from turning.
  9. Unscrew the impeller CCW.
  10. IMPORTANT -- Note how both parts of the seal are oriented to assure the new one is installed likewise, then pull off the seal and seal plate, and discard old seal parts. Also note which way is UP on the seal plate relative to the motor.
  11. Reassembly to the new motor is basically reversing the steps above.
NOTES:
The impeller ring (if one) is a ring with a lip around one side. This goes over the center of the installed impeller with the lip facing outward, away from the impeller.



Do not over tighten the bolts! You can damage the pump by doing this. Snug plus about a quarter turn is plenty. In the event you have leaking after startup, open the pump back up and check you housing gasket.

Jan 20, 2013 | Smith 2hp Pool Pump Motor A O Electric...

1 Answer

My pump is leaking .What causes that and how do I fix it


Thank youfor posting your question here on Fixya.com. The leak is likely caused by a defective pump seal. If you look at the parts breakdown at http://www.star-pool.com/assets/Hayward-Pool/Hayward-Manuals/Hayward-SP2610X15-Super-Pump-Parts-Diagram.pdf you can see the seal and the other parts that must be separated in order to replace the seal.

THE HARD WAY! Once you are sure the seal is defective you need to buy a new one along with a diffuser gasket, a pump housing gasket and some pump gasket grease.

The 4 housing cap screws and the impeller must be removed in order to remove the 4 motor cap screws. The hardest part of this process is removing the impeller. The cover on the other end of the motor should be removed and the motor shaft held with a wrench. The impeller must then be removed by turning it with a large pump pliers or by inserting a screw driver into one of the holes on the outer edge of the impeller in order to turn it counterclockwise with the shaft held with the wrench. If this damages the impeller it should be replaced.

Now remove the 4 motor cap screws and everything is apart except the seal. Half of the seal can be removed from the motor shaft and the other half from the seal plate. Placing a socket on the back side of the seal that is on the seal plate allows the seal to be removed by tapping it with a heavier tool (hammer or pump pliers). Clean this area, apply a little silicon adhesive to the area and insert the new seal half into the seal plate using the instructions that are included with the seal.

Use pump gasket grease on the pump impeller gasket and reassemble the completely reassemble the pump.
THE EASY WAY!
Remove the piping from the motor and the electrical conduit and wires from the end of the motor. Bring the pump to Leslies pool supplies (I don't work there or own any of their stock) . If they are not very busy then they will do the above and only charge you for the parts while you wait.

I have replaced so many seals I almost always do it myself at the pool site but it is not easy for the first timer.

Ifthis answer does not resolve your issue, please comment with additional informationbefore rating the answer. Positive feedback is especially appreciated once yourproblem is solved! Thank you.

Aug 28, 2011 | Hayward 1 12 Hp Super Swimming Pool Pump...

1 Answer

Get hayward pump apart model sp4010ns


I have had Northstar pumps apart but it has been a while. I found a narrative written by another expert, macdirk, describing how to replace the motor and here it is.

In order to remove the motor, first turn the motor locking ring. This holds the too halves of the pump together. There should be a small tab you have to press in, then grab the round handle, and spin the outer sleeve to unlock. Once you do this the back half of the can be pulled away. This can be very hard sometimes. If the pump and motor still work, you can flip the switch on for a sec or two, and it will pop the back half away from the front half. If the motor is not working then you'll just have to twist, wiggle and pull till you get it apart. After this make sure the power is off, breaker off, etc. and you can remove two screw from the plastic cover on the tail of the motor and disconnect the wires, and remove that half the pump. Next step is to just pull off the diffuser, which may actually have stuck inside the front half the pump. Next remove the impeller, by unscrewing while locking the shaft from the rear with a wrench. if there is a screw in the center of the impeller threaded into motor shaft remove that first. This should be a left handed thread, so unscrew by turning clockwise. The impeller should unscrew counter clockwise like normal. Next remove the seal plate. That should expose 4 bolts holding the motor to the motor mounting plate. Once you remove this you can remove the old seal, clean, and install new seal. you should replace the diffuser and seal plate o-ring as well. Normally I don't recommend a lot of lube on o-rings, but this one can be a ****** to get back together, so use plenty of lube. As I said getting the back half inserted back into the front half is a pain, so you'll just have to work it. Make sure the motor locking ring is forward of the mounting brace that sits on the ground. This can be hard, but if you get it at the right angle it will go raight in place. Make sure the diffeser and/or diffuser o-ring does not slip off into the pump housing when your trying to get it lined up and back into place. There is a notch in the housing and seal plate that have to line up. Sometimes a clamp or ratcheting strap can be used to help pop the two halves back together.
Now all that being said.... it might be worth it to just take the whole pump in to a pump repair shop and let them rebuild it, or put a new motor and seals for ya. At least check the price and consider it. This pump has unions to install it so there is no pipe work required to remove the whole darn thing. Good Luck, and let me know if you have more questions.


I hope this helps.

Aug 27, 2011 | Hayward 1.5 Hp Northstar High Performance...

1 Answer

How do I remove existing motor and replace it with a new one ? Hayward 2.0 hp # SP2615X20 Thank you


Turn off the electric first. Now split the pump in two by removing the large clamp or 4-6 bolts holding the two halves together. (not the 4 bolts holding the motor to seal plate, but the the bolts holding the seal plate to the seal plate housing). Once you remove the clamp or bolts, the motor with seal plate, diffuser, and Impeller can all be pulled back away from the pump. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and you can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To get to the impeller, you need to remove the diffuser (plastic housing that goes around the impeller) usually by a series of 3 to 6 small screws. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tail piece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under the thermal overload switch, or removing the capacitor for even easier access. Once you've locked the shaft, you can just unscrew impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. this screw will be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure to replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white ceramic, and black graphite surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Install half the seal into the seal plate. Install the seal plate onto motor and bolt into place. Install other half of seal onto shaft. Screw impeller onto shaft and install screw (if one was there to start with) in center of impeller (reverse thread). install diffuser over impeller make sure it is centered and doesn't rub the impeller hub. Install new diffuser and valute o-rings. Hookup wiring before re-attaching to rest of pump. Clamp or bolt back together. Pour plenty of water into pot to prime and flip the motor on for a sec or two. Pour some more water. Install pot lid. You should be good to go. Keep in mind there are many different pumps and some variations to the above instructions, but the above should cover most situations. Hope this helps. If you need further assistance post a reply in the comments, and don't hesitate to leave a good thumb rating if you found this helpful. Thanks, and good Luck!

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1 Answer

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Now all that being said.... it might be worth it to just take the whole pump in to a pump repair shop and let them rebuild it, or put a new motor and seals for ya. At least check the price and consider it. This pump has unions to install it so there is no pipe work required to remove the whole darn thing. Good Luck, and let me know if you have more questions.

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1 Answer

I replaced the motor on my super 2 pump with a new shaft seal. Put it all back together including electrical and now it's leaking from the bottom. I retightened the screws to make sure they weren't loose...


Most likely leaking from either the shaft seal, or the valute seal (big seal plate o-ring). When you replaced the motor you should have also replaced the shaft seal. If not go back and do that whether it's leaking or not. If you get your head down and look at the bottom of the pump while it's running you should be able to see the water coming from the joint between the seal plate, and the seal plate housing, or just behind that from the bottom of the motor probably from the vent holes in the motor housing. If it's coming from the motor then the shaft seal is leaking, and the water is traveling along the shaft and out the bottom of the motor. This will eventually get into the motor and seize up the bearings. If it's coming from the valute seal, then you need to either replace or re-seat the seal. As a general rule you should always replace the shaft seal, and diffuser and seal plate o-rings when you replace the motor or split the seal. I'm not as familiar with the 2 speed hayward super 2, but the standard super 2's have a small ribbon seal, often called a rubber band. They are infamous for going bad especially after pulling the pump apart.

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I have a Hayward Northstar 2hp pump that is leaking apparently from the Seal Plate. I replaced the Seal Plate O-Ring, Diffuser O-Ring, Impeller Ring, and Seal Assembly but it continues to leak. I used...


wow, thats odd. If you replaced every seal/o-ring and its still leaking its gotta be 1 of 2 things

You installed the shaft seal wrong- no disrespect, just a possibility

or there is a hairline crack somewhere you are missing...

Aug 22, 2010 | Hayward 1.5 Hp Northstar High Performance...

1 Answer

How do you assemble a Hayward pool pump


If it is completely apart, I am guessing you were replacing the motor? Anyway, motor gets mounted to the mounting plate plate by way of four bolts through the mounting plate into the motor. There is an top and bottom to the mounting plate usually indicated on the plate. Next goes the seal plate, there is a top and a bottom as well, usually indicated on the plate, also there is a **** in the seal plate at the bottom, an opening so if the shaft seal leaks, the water has somewhere to go instead of to your motor to rust it out. There are no bolts for the seal plate, it is held in place by the impeller. You need to get a new shaft seal before you do all this (SPX1600Z2), any compitent pool company should have a bunch of them in stock. Shaft seal is two pieces. The white porcelin piece with a rubber gasket around it goes over the shaft and into the seal plate. It fits snug in the seal plate and does not touch the metal shaft of the motor. The other half of the shaft seal goes on the impeller. The side of the piece of the shaft seal that is all black, with no metal, does not bump up to the impeller, it eventually will touch the white porcelin that is now in the seal plate. That black part of the shaft seal that goes on the impeller is made of carbon and can break somewhat easily so don't bang it on anything. You have to wiggle that part of the shaft seal onto the impeller with a little elbow grease. Make sure it is seated all the way on the impeller. Now you can screw the impeller on the the motor shaft. The motor shaft will want to spin on ya so you have to take the back of the motor off and hold the shaft. Should be a 7/16 or 1/2 inch wrench depending on what motor you got. Snug the impeller up while holding your wrench on the shaft. Doesn't need to be a death grip, the motor will actually tighten the shaft seal more due to the direction that it spins. Now the seal plate should be imobile after you tightened the impeller on. You now put the diffuser on to the seal plate. It also has a top and a bottom usually indicated by some writing. The diffuser has little nobs on it (for lack of a better term) that correspond with female groves that accept the nobs located on the seal plate. It just sits there in those groves, no bolts of screws or anything. Lubricate the gasket on the pump housing before you slide everything back into it. And make sure there isn't any debris that's gonna pinch between the seal plate and the gasket. Slide the whole mechanism into the pump and the seal plate should meet flush with the rest of the pump and tighten to it by way of four bolts (9/16"). When sliding that in there you can take off the pump lid, remove the skimmer basket, reach through the whole and guide the diffuser to the hole. Get those four bolts well snug, but if you tighten too much they will start to recess into the housing which aint a huge deal but you don't really want to go too far down that road. I hope thats all understandable, maybe i went into too much detail but I have taken apart and put back together so many hayward pumps that I have learned all the little things that potentially go wrong......good luck!

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1 Answer

Leak between seal plate and pump/strainer housing


The pump seal is leaking and needs replacing and requires removing four 3/8 bolts (9/16) wrench and removing the motor then the diffuser to get to the impeller and seal . A 7/16 wrench holds the rear motor shaft behind the springs and impeller spins off to reveal the seal which has two parts one on the impeller with a spring and one in the seal plate is white ceramic/ porcelan whatever they use. Part number is an SPX1600KA on super pumps and 1500KA wassome above grounds. When replacing do not touch the mating white and black surfaces with your fingers.

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