Even with the pan lock off and adjustment screw fully unscrewed I have a periodic jerky movement when panning with the tripod head.
this makes it difficult to use a spotting scope or video camera when looking at fine detail.
The unit has had very little use and practically brand new (about 3 months). The problem has been since it was new
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Re: FH101 head jerky panning movement
Not knowing where you reside, I don't know if a certain product is available to you but there are several different brands and some generics in the US.
The original oil additive was called STP, there was a competing brand called Motor Honey (shudder) and in many auto supply houses you can find a generic sold for 'high mileage engines.'
It is a refined petroleum product with a very high viscosity and is sticky in nature.
If you can access the surfaces causing the problem, a dot ot two on either will probably help with the jerkiness you are having.
I have used the stuff for similar gliding surfaces and the only disadvantage is the tendency to 'creep' so keeping the applied quantity low is a must.
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It depends which head is fitted to your tripod, but in the illustration from Bescor themselves, it appears to be a pan-and-tilt head. Level with the tilt lever are apparently several adjusting screws - without the camera on board, in case of accidents (done it myself,and it's not a good feeling !), tighten all of these and see if the head will move in any direction. If it does, then the head has issues and should be returned.
If the head cannot be moved, then just experiment until you find out which adjuster affects movement in each plane - my guess is that it may be the lever to the left hand side of the head (not the one at the base, which probably affects movement in a horizontal plane).
When you are sure that you have sussed it, try again carefully with the camera attached - if there is still unwanted movement, then the head needs adjustment.
There are two issues I'd like to help resolve here.
They are 'binding while I'm panning' and 'binding when I start to pan'.
Binding while I'm panning...
There is a large knob on the side of the panhead that needs to be loosened slightly. I have seen some folks loosen the panning handle because they believe it to release the panning mechanism.
Also, be sure that the camera you are using is not too heavy. There's a 5lb (2.2kg) limit and that can also cause undue strain.
Binding when I start to pan...
When panning, I advise our students to begin their pan a couple of feet ahead of the actual scene they'd like to pan and finish a couple of feet after the scene. This allows for a smooth pan after you overcome the inertia in getting the pan head to move and doesn't result in a jerky stop. It's straightforward to edit out these lead in and lead out sections.
The first thing that comes to mind with this issue is that this is not a real video tripod. This is a still tripod. With that said you might just want to try to make sure the pan/tilt locks are fully unlocked, then move the head back and fourth quickly (without the camera attached) for a few seconds to actually warm up the head.
Hope that helps!
Just below dish loading door there is a panel. Remove screws (if applicable) to find tension adjustment. Turn screw to the left to loosen or opposite lifting door open or closed untill happy with tension. Some washers have no adjustment, I suggest opening door fully and pulling out bottom load tray, loading and then top tray or rack, pushing top in first then bottom rack. Use a glass fry pan cover or fry pan for weight on door while filling soap. Good luck, best regards
Extend the extension so you are able to look at the underside of the mounting flange. You will see at least three screws requiring a slot type screw driver. Loosen these screw so the head just protrudes from the flange, make sure the head is locked in a position and unscrew it from the center mounting stud. Left to loosen and right tightens.
Extend the center column, there are 3 screws underneath that when unscrewed will allow the head to be tightened or loosened. The head is screwed on about 4 or 5 revolutions. You will need a flat head screwdriver. Take the center column out if you need to to be able to get to the screws.
The correct fluid to put in a 1997 van is (ATF-3). Sounds like you need to make adjustment on both the forward and reverse bands of the transmission to correct your problem. The kickdown band (front) forward is located at the top (outside) of the transaxle near the front. To adjust the band,loosen the lock nut approximately 5 turns. With the lock nut loose the adjusting screw should turn freely in case. Tighten the adjustment screw with an inch lb. torque wrench to 72 in-lbs. Then back the screw out 2 1/4 turns, hold the screw in place and tighten the lock nut to 35 ft-lbs. Then after removeing the transmission pan and filter the low-reverse band is located next to the valve body. Loosen the lock nut 5 turns so the adjustment screw is free. Turn the adjustment screw in to 41 in-lbs, then back the screw out 3 1/2 turns. Hold the adjustment screw and tighten the lock nut 10 ft-lbs. Install transmission pan/with gasket and refill transaxle to proper level. Test drive van. Be safe and block the rear wheels before you raise the van and try to work under it. Hope this will help you.
I have the Hakuba HG-503MX which came with basically the same pan head you have already attached to the center column. First remove the center column from the tripod, with the pan head attached. Tighten the knob that prevents the pan head unit from rotating 360 degrees on the center column and gripping the head with one a hand and the center column near the plastic plate firmly twisting the head counter clockwise. The pan head will unscrew from the plastic plate which sits on top of the center column, given enough force. My pan head was also very tightly screwed onto the shaft, since it came already attached to the tripod. Hope this is helpful.
This one is very easy. I paid the Sears guy $180 to come out and fix mine. I had my fiance watch him do it so she could walk me through it the next it happened. Sure enough (we have 4 dogs), it happened again one month later and I was easily able to fix the problem. You'll need a torx wrench, some towels, and a pan. On the very bottom, in the front of the washer, are two torx screws, one on each side. unscrew these and pull the lower front panel down and out. Behind this panel, in the middle, is a white plastic piece with another torx screw at the bottom. Remove this screw and pull the plastic piece forward and up. Pull it forward so you can slide a pan underneath it. There's going to be a lot of water. Put towels underneath the pan. Unscrew the center plastic piece. It will be tough but it turns counterclockwise to unscrew. Unscrew this and water and often times a big plug of debris will come out. Depending on how big your pan is, you will probably have to quickly screw the center piece back in before your pan fills up. Empty the pan and repeat until there's no more water. Inspect the center piece for any debris and clear it. Reinstallation is the reverse. Congrats, you saved $180.