Hi I was just in touch a moment ago about my r360 subwoofer. I was told as it made a buzzing noise it was my amp gone bad. I just want to clarify that the buzzing noise only lasted a moment afer I plugged the cable in. Does that make a difference?
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I would check the caps on the power supply. They are rather large electrolytic capacitors that will look like they burst and/or leaking. When these die, the caps ground and the sub will make a loud buzzing sound. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can replace them yourself. Replace them with the same voltage or a little bigger and same with the size.
If the cap. says 16v 4700pF on it, for example, a 20v 5300pF or a 16v 6200mF cap. will work for this application.
If you pull out the "input" cables and the noise stops, you have a problem with the "ground" and you have to check if there isn't a loose contact inside the plugs. If it doesn't stop, your amplifier is the problem and that mostly is a bad contact on the board in the pre-amplifier area.
with nothing connected and the sub turned on....Most subs buzz when the circuitry starts to fatigue. The last time I heard this ..the repair ended up being one of the two fat capacitors inside the sub. I have a means of testing this,,you may not. I am a repair shop with a bit of experience in component level board repair.
Bad news! It sounds like the coil is rubbing inside the magnet of the speaker! There's no cure, when the cone is warped it it knackers it up. Had the same problem some years ago with a Wharfedale speaker. Someone told me you can hit it on the part where the cone joins the magnet -with a hammer!
Anyway it didn't make a bit of difference! And the speaker was chucked.
Before you go throwing money at this problem, try to eliminate any external influences like track lighting. I myself am trying to figure out why mine makes a buzz throughout my system when the lights are on. I already replaced the variable light control with no improvement.
Bad cable ground can let airborne electronic noise into the Sub's amp.
If you have lost both channels then it's something that is common to both that has gone. If one channel has gone, use the good channel as a guide. Here's what to do find the point where the pre-amp outputs to the power amp. With a screwdriver touch that point (make certain you only touch one metal point at a time = don't short anything). It should buzz! work backwards till the buzzing stops. It is easier to test with a channel working, but I think you will soon get to the faulty stage.
PS IC's are allways suspect when both channels out!
PPS Don't touch any power parts with the screwdriver!
yes. A good idea. Kill power to the sub, then unplug and remove everything from the sub. go ahead and plug it in again and check for buzzzz.
That is test one. if you have buzz still, its the sub assembly. bad luck, but not impossible. If the buzz is gone its one of the signals to the sub. They can produce a buzzz without any signal coming from your stereo equipment. Replace the feed line, enjoy! BTW...Kef sure does sound clean. good choice.
The 2200 uF capacitor in the power supply has gone bad and the humming is a 60 Hz from the rectification of AC to 18 vDC. Either get a new power supply or take apart the power supply and replace the bad cap.