Go To "Littlefuse.com" I Do Believe It Is Part# 0215005 MXEP 1. Slow Blow 2. 250V - 5A (Axial) 3. 5x20 4. Through Hole (Goes Through Hole In Board To Be Soldered) 5. 1500A Breaking Capacity 6. 215XE Series
Hope This Helps, I Had The Same Problem With My ILO 32HD LCD TV.
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fuses blow because of excess current draw (amps too high for the fuse) and that is from a short in the wire or unit that that fuse supply the current to. It has nothing to do with timing. However if the circuit for that fuse goes to a cam/crank position sensor or immobiliser then may be the problem unit/s
WW grainger carries ceramic fuses, including 12 amp: Copy following links: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COOPER-BUSSMANN-Fuse-1BX44 You can also wire a fuseholder in-line: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COOPER-BUSSMANN-Fuse-Holder-1CV90?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1
If only power supply's affected, then change the SMPS with a compatible one of the same rating. But first check the monitor by connecting to the mains power supply with the video chord not attached to anything. if the monitor displays "no videos" signal, then the monitor is OK cange the SMPS of the CPU and check UPS & spike boards fuses, otherwise commect to main power supply pluf(Wall 3-pin outlet socket)......sodeep
If you would pls have a look at the blown glass fuse: 1. if there are scorching/burnt/dark marks on the glass housing, then it is most likely that there is a major electronic failure; 2. if the cut of the fuse wire is clean, then chances are the problem is only slight. In some instances, it is also possible that the glass fuse you used is a fastblow whereas the ceramic was possibly slowblow. As the name implies, their reaction time differs.
Additionally, if you were able to use the unit for some time before the fuse blew, it is possible that the unit was driven a tad hard causing the amps to draw higher current from the power supply thereby causing the blown fuse.
If the incident happened right after powering it up for the first time and you were not able to use it even for a while, another possibility to consider is that the unit's input voltage setting is not in accordance with what locally is available in your current location (110/220).
Other than replacing the fuse, I wouldnt recommend doing anything else as the warranty may be void. Having said that, your best bet may then be to contact the dealer and ask for a replacement or repair service.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
The amplifier probably has shorted output transistors.
Disconnect the speakers and RCA cables. Replace the fuses with two 10 amp fuses or a single 20 amp fuse. If the amp blows the fuse when it powers up, the outputs are almost certainly the problem. Don't try it with the two 30 amp fuses. The smaller fuses will provide more protection for the power supply. If the amp powers up with the smaller fuses and they don't blow, check the speakers and the wiring (for shorts to ground or shorts between wires).
Had the exact problem on 11/14/06. Ordered a power supply board, which was $300+, got it in and when I went to replace the part, found that the old part had a blown fuse (a lot cheaper). Of course if I had put in the new part it would have fixed it also. CHECK THE FUSES IN THE MIDDLE CIRCUIT BOARD (there are 3 boards).