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landry brook Posted on Apr 08, 2013
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I want to replance a standard wall switch (2 wires: white & black) with a PIR Occupancy Sensor switch

The PIR Occupancy Sensor Switch (OSS) has 4 Cables: Green (Ground Terminal), White (Neutral), Red (Load - power to lamp or fan) and Black (Hot - power from circuit box) Can this OSS replace a standard on/off switch? I notice in the documentation, it is used to also provide power to a fan.

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Gene Haynes

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  • Hardware & A... Master 5,391 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 08, 2013
Gene Haynes
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Copy following link for simple walk-thru how to wire occupancy switch
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-occupancy-switch.html

This device is made to replace single-pole switch.
Power to fan: note the horsepower range for device: for example if occupancy switch is rated 1/4 Hp, then it will work for ordinary bath fan. If device is rated for 1/3-1/2 Hp then it is rated for whole-house fan.
Each fan motor will have rating plate showing Hp. Check rating labels for each device.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 351 Answers
  • Posted on May 13, 2010

SOURCE: Trying to replace Intermatic with Utilitech inwall

The wires on your new switch are intended for black = power .. white = neutral . and red = lights .. with two black wires on the old switch I am assuming that there is a bundle of white wires in that wall box, the white timer needs to join that bundle ... then you need to determine which black wire is the power from the electrical panel ( voltage tester) and connect to the black timer wire .. the red timer wire connects to the other black wire in the wall..

Please Vote !!

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Anonymous

  • 351 Answers
  • Posted on May 25, 2010

SOURCE: I bought a Utilitech 7 day digital in wall timer,

HI .. if the switch has only a black and white wire attached, and there are no other wires in the wall box, then you cannot use this timer switch. You need to return it and get a timer that does not use a neutral connection. The wires you have are a switch leg from the light and there is a white wire but it is not a neutral.
If there are other wires in that wall box , tell me and we can chat more about how to remedy this .

Please Vote !!

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 21, 2010

SOURCE: Utilitech Wall Timer #0192773 does not switch

Old timer: Intermatic EJ500 & ST01C timers have a battery. Battery operates the clock motor. Red wire is for 3-way circuit [a hallway with 2 switches is a 3-way circuit].

Utilitec timer, clock runs on 120Volt circuit instead of battery. So clock has to have power.

How to connect wires:
Black timer wire connects to hot wire from breaker box.
Red (or blue) timer wire goes to landscape lights.
White timer wire connects to white neutral wire [or if no neutral is available, connect to bare ground wire].
Green timer wire goes to bare ground wire.

How to find black hot wire and white neutral wire inside box
: Disconnect and separate wires so you can test. Use ordinary tester. Power is on. There is only 1 black hot wire inside each electrical box. Test each black wire to bare ground until tester light comes on > that identifies the black hot wire. Next, test black hot wire to white wires until tester light comes on > that is the neutral wire. Exception: This test does not necessarily work with 3-way switches since they reverse each time switch is thrown.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 26, 2010

SOURCE: GE digital timer. Instructions say to: 1)

Find the Hot wire:
Your switch has 2 wires. One of these wires is Hot, and one goes to load. Disconnect wires from switch. Turn on power. Do not stand on wet surface. Test each wire to bare copper wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire. The other wire goes to load.

Connect wires:
Hot wire goes to Black timer wire
Wire to load goes to Red timer wire
White wire connects to white wires that are twisted together
Bare copper wire connects to Green wire from timer

How to connect white wire to white wires that are twisted together.
a) Strip white timer wire so you have 1-1/2 " of bare wire. Stranded wire will wrap around other wires easily.
b) Remove wire nut. DO NOT UNTWIST wires.
c) Hold all whites together so bare copper lines up. Wrap stranded copper around the twisted wire.
d) Replace wire nut, or use larger wire nut. Twist real tight. Do not use tape. You can solder the connection.
e) When done, pull on white time wire to make sure it is held tight. Push whites back into box.

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Nov 05, 2010

SOURCE: I have a ge digital

I have test-wired your timer, and many other timers.
Your white and red together are causing the clicking.

Hot from breaker connects to timer-black.
Wire going Load (lights) connects to timer-red
Timer-white wire connects to Neutral inside box.
In your case, you don't have the neutral so connect the timer-white to bare ground wire.

add a comment if you need more help.

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1answer

Wire occupancy sensor to control receptacle

Your description doesn't explain the circuit, the function of the wires or how the switch controls the outlet and whether the switch is a single pole or two-pole switch. Without such details it is difficult to visualise the circuit.

I advise before you go further to test the sensor in a known good and correctly wired outlet using a length of cable and a suitable plug for the outlet. It is possible the unit is faulty. If it functions correctly on test you will need to understand the circuit and the function of the wires before you rewire it to assure success.
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PIR switches and house wiring is incompatable?

Several possibilities. First use standard light bulbs until it is working. Some of the PIR have triac outputs which need a minimum amount of current to work. CFL and LED lights can be a problem with electronic switches/dimmers.

The PIR needs electricity to operate. The black and white wire are probably power and return, there is no neutral to connect to the PIR. Unless you can get a different PIR that does not need line power to operate you are out of luck. There may be some that can cycle steal power and would work but I am not familiar with them.

I assume the three way is a three way PIR and the lights that are flickering are electronic such as LED or CFL.

If you talk to one of the people where you bought the switch they may help you free of charge.

Good Luck
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Motion sensor light

Just ignore the fact the new device does not have white neutral. While old device has neutral
Difference: The new device is rated for incandescent only, while the old device was rated all type of lights including cfl etc.
Copy following link for wiring illustrations
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-occupancy-switch.html
Check manual for product rating. You might want to return device and buy one with white neutral wire so it will work with your application.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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Connect a electric motion sensor switch to a standard switch

Copy following link for motion sensor and occupancy switch wiring
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-occupancy-switch.html#motion

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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I'm trying to replace a switch outlet combo with a leviton pr180 with occupancy sensor...it has black, red, green, and yellow red wires. The wiring in the wall is one black and white and ground for the...

In addition to the black, red, green, and yellow/red wires on the switch, there should also be a white wire or terminal marked WH. The black wire on the switch connects to the incoming black wire (line in or hot) inside the switch box. The red wire on the switch connects to the outgoing black wire (to the load) inside the switch box. The green connects to the bare wires inside the switch box. The yellow/red is not used in a single pole application such as yours. The two white wires inside the switch box are twisted together and _also_ connected to the WH terminal (or white wire) on the switch.
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How to wire

This should replace any existing single pole (one location) switch. You have two wires on the pir, black and blue and then the ground. The black hooks to the hot or common wire. It may be black, but it will be the hot wire. The blue wire hooks to the wire going to the light. The ground hooks to the green or bare.
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I installed the PR180 switch in my garage with a 4ft dual t-8 flourescents bulbs. When the motion sensor timer turns the light off the flourescent bulbs stay slightly lit, as if it were on a dimmer...

There is nothing wrong with the switch or your wiring. The Leviton R01-PR180-1LI is not designed to work with flourescent lights. A lot of electronic controls will bleed through a small voltage when in the "OFF" state. It's just enough voltage to make the ballast in the flourescent light try to fire but not enough to let it fire the way it is supposed too.

What you need is a motion switch that is rated for flourescent lights, such as this :-( :
http://www.smarthome.com/2520W/Leviton-ODS10-IDW-Commercial-Grade-Wall-Mounted-Occupancy-Sensor-White/p.aspx
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I have a stairs with a switch and a bulb on each floor and i need to replace them with a wall pir sensor on each floor i need the wiring diagram

I answer questions for free.
I know electrical wiring.
I am unsure about a few things in your question.
Are you wanting to know how to wire a product you purchased?
Are looking for a wiring diagram to see if you can do what your want?

1) Is your circuit a 3-way circuit with 2 switches controlling both lights?
2) Or are there 2 different circuits where each switch controls one light?

Here is a Leviton manual with wiring for occupancy sensors:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Leviton-IPP0R-1LW.pdf
If you want sensors to replace 3-way switches, you need a control sensor and a remote sensor.

464570c.jpg
Click link below to see this image clearly
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-way-sensor-600.jpg

Add a comment and I will get back to you with specific details about wiring.
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Trying to replace Intermatic with Utilitech inwall timers. Have 2 black wires in wall box with other switches for other lights. Which of the Utilitech 4 wires- black, red, white & green get conected to...

The wires on your new switch are intended for black = power .. white = neutral . and red = lights .. with two black wires on the old switch I am assuming that there is a bundle of white wires in that wall box, the white timer needs to join that bundle ... then you need to determine which black wire is the power from the electrical panel ( voltage tester) and connect to the black timer wire .. the red timer wire connects to the other black wire in the wall..

Please Vote !!
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LOOKING WIRING DIAGRAM SL-6107-IV-C

This is a 3 pole switch, made by Cooper
Black = Hot or Load
Green = Ground
Brown and Red are travelers.
Link to proper literature regarding this switch:
http://solutions.cooperwiringdevices.com/webDB/documents/cwd%20residential/instrSheets/469MT-PTA%20(REV.%20A).pdf
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