Question about KitchenAid K45SS Classic Stand Mixer

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Kitchenaid K5A mixer 10 speed only runs on fast, no slow speed

It runs on fast only. The slower speeds do not work. Model K5A KitchenAid Stansd Mixer

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  • bennettsfour Mar 31, 2009

    I'll give it a try... joyof baking, this is a K5A it is the exact model number that is on the placard. This is a hand me down, so I'm not sure if there are any other areas that have the model listed.

  • joyofbaking May 11, 2010

    What is the exact model number?  I have a KP26M1XPT and had a similar problem that I fixed by reseating the Hall Effect sensor, which controls the mixer's speed.  However, without knowing your exact model, I can't honestly say that this solution would fix your problem.  If you can provide an exact model number, I can possibly help.

  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    replace speed control lever on kitchenaid mixer model ksm150pser

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Pull the back off and there will be two screws at the top of the Speed Control Plate and a 3rd screw at the bottom. Tighten the top two screws down. bakerboy49203@yahoo.com. Let me know if it works.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

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  • bakerboy4920 Apr 01, 2009

    Ok, after further consideration (as I have the same circumstance with a recent hand me down) I'm thinking that the speed control plate needs replaced. When I pulled off that back cover and pushed that plate in and out as I switched speeds it would adjust the speed just fine, but if I left it to it's own device it won't work. So I think I need a new plate. Let me be honest I really don't know for sure. But if you decide to try to get and install a new plate, Follow this link... http://buyitnow64.stores.yahoo.net/ki41m....

  • der_Teufel Oct 06, 2010

    I've had this same problem on a couple of older KitchenAid mixers (A K5 and a K45). The symptom was that the mixer would only run at high speed, regardless of the speed selector setting. I never ran it very long under that condition, so I don't know if it would quit at some point. The fix was to replace a capacitor. The capacitor was in a cardboard tube/sleeve over the motor. Remove the rear cap by taking out the screw at the top rear of the mixer and then pulling the rear housing cap off. Make sure the mixer is not plugged in! Find the capacitor (in the cardboard sleeve). In the case of the k45, there were several wires joined together with screw-on terminal caps on each side of the motor. On one side the insulation was red, on the other side it was yellow. Remove the screw-on caps and pull out the wires from the capacitor. I got a replacement capacitor at Radio Shack for about $1.50, their part number was 272-1053. I had to solder on some additional wire because the leads on the new part were too short (the capacitor itself was quite smaller -- technology has progressed). I slid the insulation off of the old capacitor leads and slipped it onto the leads of the new capacitor, then put the leads back together with the screw-on terminal caps.
    To see if this is the problem, before you go to too much trouble, simply remove the capacitor and try running the mixer. If the speed control now works, the capacitor is the problem. DO NOT simply use the mixer without the capacitor -- you may eventually burn up the motor controller. The capacitor is there for a purpose.

  • Edward Miller Sep 20, 2013

    I'm not an electronics expert but why put a DC capacitor on an AC device...I had the same problem and took the capictor off. An electrician friend of mine told me capacitors are usually used to store electricity to start the motor more effiediently. Mine is working great without it and he said it would probably not be a problem if the motor is starting right up. I would imagine this would be more of an issue with a significant load in the bowl.

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My solution is the one by "der_Teutel". The price on the capacitor has risen to $1.69. The original was 1uf and the replacement a .01uf. I'm back from a 1 speed to a ten speed. There were a lot of solutions that ended up going to a repair center for a 30+ year old mixer and $$$. Thanks again. It's purpose is to reduce burning of the contacts on the govenor plate.

Posted on Jul 08, 2012

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My solution was just tightening the screws behind the cover. The problem was that it was not going back to it's original position thus not allowing lower speeds to engage. Once I tightened the 2 flat head screws and one fillips screw all was well.

Posted on Jun 06, 2013

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  • Edward Miller Aug 14, 2013

    Thank, I also had this problem on my old K5-A. It looked as if someone had backed out the two upper screws too far so the speed control plate was on a significant slant. I turned those in quite a bit but I could not back the lower screw out enough to get all the speeds. I replaced it with a longer screw and I was in business. I also had to tweek the end of the speed control linkage rod (my term) as the screw point kept dropping off of it. After a little bend here and there it should be fine for a while.

  • Lula Couvillion Sep 18, 2013

    How do you remove the housing to a K5-A to put new grease I remove the screws but it want come loose I don't want to force it and break it

  • Edward Miller Sep 20, 2013

    You also have to tap off the chrome ring and remove the screws that are revealed.

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It worked! It's kinda scary though because I really had to tighten them a lot. I hope I didn't over tighten. Thanks for your site!

Posted on May 22, 2015

  • Jill Chadbourne-Parks
    Jill Chadbourne-Parks Nov 12, 2015

    Well, it happened. I did tighten it too much so now I have to replace the entire plate!!! rats, I'm too strong for my own good.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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