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There is something wrong with the auto load sensing switch which is part of the generator. That is the sensor that detects when current load from the generator drops as in when you strike an arc or turn on a power tool and cranks the throttle to full power. It is obviously working on manual because the manual switch is cranking the revs up so the solenoid that operates the throttle is ok. My advice is to take it to a service centre that deals in welder/generator sets as you are playing with dangerous voltages and may possibly damage the machine by tinkering with it or fry yourself (nasty)
Believe it or not call Wallmart, they just might have the tires you need. Or try one of the tire .com places, just enter your tire and rim size, most the time they will be tax free with no shipping charge. automotivewarehouse.com might carry them. Hope this helps, please post solved on fixya.com. So I get credit for a solved problem if it does.
If the front DOES NOT say "chopper technology", then the fine control knob MUST be turned all the way up for full aux power. Low engine RPM can also cause this issue. If your meter can read frequency, it should read a little above 60 Hz at full speed with no load.
There are two wires comming from the circuit board to the wire feed motor. You can try running the motor directly from a 12v battery or two for 24 volts. You might want to look at the name plate on the motor to check the normal DC current it draws. If you do not have an ammeter, you could use a fuse close to or just under the normal current. If it runs and draws too much current, then you know you have motor problems. If it runs well and draws a fraction of normal current,you know the motor is good. Before you condem the circuit board, check that it is receiving the correct input voltage. If the welder is dual voltage,then somebodys mistake making voltage change could send 240 v to the board that is meant to receive 120v. Hope this helps, Robert
Hi, Check the current control resistor with an ohm meter. The center terminal should have a smooth rise or fall of resistance when measured to one end or the other of the resistor. If the resistor and the wiring to it are OK, check the shunt in the output it'll be by the "electrode" terminal. If both are OK you probably have a bad control board.
Trigger the wirefeeder while listening for the contactor on the CP302 to close, if it does start looking for loose, bad or missing ground connections to the work, then look for the power connection from the CP302 to the wirefeeder to be bad. If the CP302 contactor doesn't close look at the control cable between the wirefeeder and the CP302, try a different one if possible. If you hear the contactor close, and everything else is good, check the voltage at the CP302 output terminals to see if you may have a bad contactor.