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Replaced faucet stems still leaking.Need installing infomation on plastic inserts

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Faucet stems have an O-ring on the outside that seals against any leaking around them. You don't say if the leak is around the stems or from the spout. If it is from the spout, you may have replacement cups and springs under the stems that also need replacing. Also ensure that there is no dirt/sand inside when replacing them. This also can cause scratches which will cause dripping.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

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How to install a danco 10472 4z-24h/c hot & cold faucet stem


  • Shut off water supply
  • Open faucet
  • Remove knob
  • Unscrew old stem
  • Use flashlight to inspect seat for damage and corrosion. Dress or replace seat if necessary.
  • Install new stem
  • Reinstall knob
  • Turn on water supply and check for leaks

Feb 09, 2014 | Danco Faucet Stem

Tip

Diagram-Type Faucets


DIAPHRAGM-TYPE FAUCETS

  • The diaphragm faucet is washerless but is similar to washer-type faucets. A rubber diaphragm between the stem and seat creates a straight-down, frictionless close. As with washer-type faucets, diaphragm faucets have two handles.

  • Remove the stem by following the steps outlined for washer-type faucets. Instead of a washer on the end of the stem, you'll find a swiveling disc. If the rubber diaphragm doesn't come out with the stem, it is still inside the faucet.

  • If the diaphragm didn't come out with the stem, use pliers to peel it from inside the faucet and pull it out. Install a new diaphragm around the swiveling disc, then replace the stem in the faucet.

  • If the faucet is leaking around the stem, replace the stem's O-ring before reinstalling the stem.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

Tip

How to repair a washer-type faucet


REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-TYPE FAUCET

  • Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.

  • To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.

  • Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.

  • Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's dirty.

  • Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it–this should stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, too, replace it with a new brass screw.

  • The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer replacement obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2) until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.

  • Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. However, if the seat simply has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future repairs.

  • It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1, bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or (B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action – this allows it to outlast fixed washers.

  • Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.

  • If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings–their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig. 1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

We installed the tub faucet and the hot water does not stop dripping


it is due to the rubber seals on back of valve stems, they are not seating right to stop complete flow of water. just remove stem and replace. if it still leaks, the valve seat may need be replaced. most just turn out to replace ( with a square tool ) found at most hardware stores etc. good-day !

Aug 26, 2011 | Banner Plumbing

1 Answer

Leaky moen 2 handle faucet


if memory serve's me,you will need to remove a stem extension,screw in center,and you may need a tool #103462 to remove cartridge.1'st stem ex't is red,(hot) blue (cold), remove, look down,white piece w/ 2 notch'es, this hold's cartridge down, ya might try needle nose plier's to remove,a little lube help's upon re assembly, carefull w/plastic thread's

Apr 26, 2010 | Moen Monticello Single-Handle Kitchen...

1 Answer

I have replaced the o ring that was broken.still leaks


on the outer of the stem there should be a hard plastic washer. Is it there? If not that is the problem. Or you may need to tighten the packing nut. (the farthest nut out on the stem towards the handle).

Nov 08, 2009 | Cascade Faucets Cascade Style Cr1 3x12...

1 Answer

Replace inside stem on hot water Eljer shower faucet


Sounds like you might need a gear puller -- hardware stores would have them -- or auto parts.
Spray with contact cleaner wd-40 first, then install puller, depress ring and crank away at the puller.

Apr 21, 2009 | Home

2 Answers

Single handle faucet is leaking from the center.


You need to get a kit to rebuild the faucet which may sound daunting but actually is not. Since you did not state the brand of faucet, which I assume you do not know since you just moved in, you will need to go to a home depot or lowes and find a similar faucet to know what brand you have. Then ask the plumbing expert there how to proceed.

Apr 02, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Replaced stems and still leaking...


Hello Matg55,

If the seat came out with the stem, you will need to reinstall it.
The valve's disc needs a seat to seal properly.
Is the seat threaded on the side opposite the bevel?
Do you have a seat removal/Installation tool?

Kind Regards,
IT_handyman

Oct 20, 2008 | American Standard Bath Faucet Ceramix...

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