Question about Whirlpool LCR7244H Top Load Washer
When filling the cold water won't shut off to the selected water level, continuing to fill to over flow. I thought it may have been the shut of valve, which I replaced to no avail. Has anyone experienced this problem and advise what was done to overcome.
Dont want to endorse a commercial site, but you can by a generic part for a bit over $10 for this problem, so do some seraching for a reasonable site (other sites are charging 40-50 dollars for a fill valve.
Posted on Aug 09, 2007
Littleone.. please check your instructions.. some washers now dont need Hot water connection to them...they heat their own as part of the efficiency settings on the wash programmes themselves!
Posted on Mar 19, 2008
The fill switch is a very sensitive device. You can test it by blowing into the tube, listen for the switch to click, or use an ohms tester. They are actually adjustble, the adjuster screw usually has glyptol (thread lock) on it. I would replace one before trusting an adjusted one.
Posted on Jul 29, 2008
The pressure switch (also called the "water level switch") determines the point at which the water level should turn off. It will be located behind the water level or load size knob inside the control panel. You can view it by removing the back of the control panel. NOTE: Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before removing the back of the control panel). If you have tried various load levels and the water still cuts off at the same point every time, you may have a pressure switch that is malfunctioning or, an air dome hose that has something clogged or kinked, causing the switch to trip early.
The air dome hose is a clear plastic hose that attaches to the pressure switch and runs down to the right hand side of the wash tub to what is called the air dome. Pressure builds up inside this air dome as the water level rises and is sensed by the pressure switch. Depending on the water level you have selected, the switch will cut off the inlet water at the prescribed level. You need to take a look at the entire length of the air dome hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged. To do this you need to remove the exterior washer case. It sounds intimidating, but its actually a simple process. Just follow these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
The air dome hose will be attached on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. Follow the entire length of this hose and make it is not kinked or pinched anywhere. Also make sure there's nothing in it like lint or insects (I've seen it happen).
To re-install the washer case, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If any of these preliminary steps don't work, you may have to replace the switch. Replacements can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $22. The part number is 3366845. Just use the "Search by Part Number" feature.
NOTE: Another problem that causes the washer not to fill properly is called siphoning. It comes from improperly installing the drain line which causes water to siphon out of the wash tub as it tries to fill. The following link explains:
Usually when a washer siphons, however, it never reaches the cut off stage and continually tries to fill. Or, it fills and shuts off, but loses water during the wash and starts filling again. I don't know if these are the symptoms you are experiencing, but it may be worth the effort to double check your drain line to make sure you have a proper air gap. You may avoid having to replace parts.
If you have questions along the way, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on May 04, 2009
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