I have a Kitchen aid KUDL02IRBS1 dishwasher. We lost power in the house and when it finally came back the dishwasher never worked right again. The "Normal" light flashes continually. When I flip the breaker of and back on it sounds like it's trying to finish a rinse cycle the the light flashes again. Sometimes if I press enough buttons on the panel I can get it to reset, but it doesn't always work when I need it to. The High temp, heated dry, high temp, heated dry button sequence does not reset it.
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I have had this problem. Mine didn't work for over a week and by the time the repair man came over to 'replace the board' it suddenly worked. The guy told me that if you use ANY type of liquid dishwashing soap (for your sink) and any residue/bubble is on the dishes, it can cause your dishwasher to break. I have no idea why but I've been really careful to make sure I wasn't using dish soap prior to putting them in the washer. I've had 3 service calls on this dishwasher since I purchased it 3 years ago. I'm having similar service issues with my Kitchen Aid Fridge. And of course no help from Kitchen Aid.
I found this post elsewhere. It seems to have worked for me:
Our KitchenAid KUDP series dishwasher went into a mode where it would
not start and would only respond to the cancel/drain button. The clean
light would flash 7 times in a row, stop, and then repeat. I read that
the 7 flashes indicates an error code and that the dishwasher has
detected a problem in the heater element circuit. I tried to reset the
error mode by turning off power for 15 minutes, however, that did not
called for a repair. The service person found that the dishwasher was
completely fine except that it had gone into an error mode. The
technician reset the error mode and charge us $115.00.
The reset sequence used was reported to be the following: 1) Crack the door open. 2) Within 3 seconds press the following sequence - Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry, Hi Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry 3) Close and latch the door 4) Press the cancel button (the circle with the triangle in it)
were told the dishwasher expects to see the dish water temperature rise
in a certain way. If the water does not heat in this way, the
dishwasher becomes confused and thinks the heater element has failed.
In deed, this happened just following and extended power failure and
our hot water tank was cool. I am curious if this code will work for
anybody else with the same problem and save a service call and 115
bucks. Overall, this seems to be a serious logic flaw in the design.
Did you try turning off the power and then connecting it again?
If still problem is there open the door.
Press the following sequence of buttons HI Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry,HI Temp Scrub, Energy Saver Dry.
Now close the dishwasher door and latch it too and press the cancel button. This must reset the dishwasher.
Hi, The clean light usually will blink due to a failure to heat the water properly. This dishwasher looks for a temperature rise of the water during a heating cycle if it fails to see this rise for multiple cycles it may shut down and blink the clean light. There are a few things to check before resetting the control. -The unit not being level so both door switches do not make contact - The sump plugged up so water is not pumping across the heater (see sump clean out below) - Not enough water filling the dishwasher - The heat element is not working To reset the control use this key dance within 5 seconds press:HEATED DRY, NORMAL, HEATED DRY, NORMAL This will cause you to enter the diagnosis cycle once this is finished or you hit cancel the control should be unlocked and ready to use. Thank you !
Hi, The door latch pulls the door tightly closed to prevent water leakage around the door. It is also designed to prevent operation while the door is open. The door latch works in concert with the door switch to ensure that the door is tightly closed and latched.The door switch is a separate part from the door latch and is found inside the cabinet. The switch is off when the door is open. Depressing the switch closes the circuit and enables dishwasher operation. Closing the door does not depress the switch all the way. Only when the door is closed and latched, does the door fully depress the switch. If the door latch is not properly aligned it may not pull the door tightly closed and the door switch will not be fully depressed. Unless the switch is fully depressed the dishwasher will not operate.It is a simple matter to determine whether the door latch is the problem. Simply open the door, close the latch and select a cycle and depress the switch. Note that if the test is successful, with the door open, the dishwasher will operate and water may spray out. Make sure to first remove all tools from inside the dishwasher. Do not reach inside the dishwasher during the test. Now, inspect the cabinet where the door makes contact with it and locate the door switch. It may have a protruding button or spike or more likely it is a hole with a piece of metal or plastic inside it. You must fully depress that switch. If the switch is recessed, then use a non-conductive object, such as a wooden pencil, to depress the switch. Thank you !!
To invoke the diagnostic cycle, perform the following key presses in less than 6 seconds while in standby.
Heated Dry -> Normal -> Heated Dry -> Normal
Invoking the diagnostic cycle clears all status and last run information from memory and restores defaults. It also forces the next cycle to be a sensor calibration cycle. (quoted from service diagnostic cycle notes in troubleshooting guide)
It depends on your water pressure. Mine runs a cycle in about 25 minutes, with 92 psi water pressure. Before changing all the pipes in my house, I had about 30 psi and it took about 45 minutes. The longer it takes to fill, the longer it takes to do a wash.
I ran into this same problem. Cutting the power didnt reset it.
After power reset, mine had the normal led blinking. If I pressed cancel, then the cancel and china button leds would start blinking too.
I pulled out the trouble shooting guide (from behind the baseboard kick panel under the dishwasher door). It that if the dishwasher wont run and button LEDs are blinking there is a short circuit in the keypad. It gave a keypad diagnostic sequence which I followed. (disconnect keypad and try to initiate the diagnostic cycle without the keypad by disconecting the yellow leads to OWI sensor twice in less than 6 seconds.
I could hear the diagnostic cycle start, so the problem is a bad keypad. Will order a new one tomorrow and let you know if it works.