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Re: freeer motor wont operate, motor ok,
Check the connections to the sensors inside of te evaporator compartmnet to the freezer. the fan won't come on untill the evsaporator temperayture is 0 degrees. hAVE YOU CLEANED OUT THE CONDENSER IN THE BACK LATELY? it may be dirty.
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Twin Cooling System
·The refrigerator and the freezer have two
evaporators. Given this independent system, the
freezer and the refrigerator are cooled individually as
required and are, therefore, more efficient. Food
odor from the refrigerator does not affect food in the
freezer due to separate air flow circulation.
Because of the dual system one of your evaporators may need servicing.
It most likely is the fan motor. When the bearing wears out, the fan motor shaft tends to run "off center" every few seconds and it sounds like a "chirp". See if it stops when the door is open and starts after the door switch is held closed for a minute or so.
If it is the motor, find a replacement online.
The accumulation of ice on one side indicates a refrigerant problem. Basically there is a refrigerant leak and some of the refrigerant has been lost.
A technician can repair the leak and re gas the refrigerant for you.
Is it a side by side? Do you have model number? Was the control board replaced because of this issue? Does the fan motor in freezer operate? Open freezer door and push in door switch to operate fan motor. If it is a side by side sometimes when the fan motor goes bad it damages the motherboard. Is their ice build up on back wall of freezer?
All cooling takes place in the freezer (bottom, in your case). Freezer air must be circulated into the fresh food compartment to cool it. There is a fan in the freezer called the evaporator fan, which is supposed to do this job.
1. You have a blockage in the return vent to the freezer. Remove item that is on the floor of the fresh food section and find this return vent (hole or passageway) and prove to yourself that it is clear.
2. Freezer fan is not working. You should hear it when opening the freezer door. Some units shut opff when the door is open, so see if pushing the button that turns off the freezer light does that too. If not working find out why. Fan blade stuck on something? Motor seized? Replace failed motor.
3. Defrost system has failed, allowing ice build-up on the evaporator (behind freezer back wall). Test heater, defrost limiting thermostat, and defrost timer circuit. If a circuit board determines defrost cycle timing, replace it if the def. thermostat and heater are good.
Check the door switch is operational by pressing it with your hand. When you press it, it should turn off the light. If it does that, then check the door if the door braket is worn or loose or is not hitting the door switch when closing.
This is pretty normal unless you are having problems below the refrigerator fan. Good air flow equals more efficient. What you feel is call a yoder loop and that is hot Freon coming from compressor and circulating around doors to prevent moisture. If it becomes hotter and temperatures begin to increase inside freezer and fresh food compartments is really when you should be concerned. If the pipes were not there you would beging to see moisture form around door seals and rust also. At this point I believe your refrigerator is OK. Just watch for changes in temperatures inside combined with the heat around door frame. Other model refrigerators use electric heat strips to do the same thing and they can be switched off at a switch called energy saver. Your model does not have that and hot days the hotter it seems. Let me know if you have a safe temperature of 38 degrees inside fresh food compartment and if that changes we may need to clean dust and check condenser fan motor. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Check to ensure that the freezer fan motor is operable (you may need to open the freezer door and activate a button inside the freezer door frame in order to make the fan operate). If the fan works, then you may have an issue with the damper assembly (located in the fresh food compartment at the top left side). It will either be a "manual" or "electronic" concept. Adjust the temperature settings for both the freezer and fresh food compartments at the "half-way mark". You should also have a vent or two at the bottom left side of the fresh food compartment (check to see how far they are openend or closed and adjust accordingly). If the aforementioned doesn't help, contact an appliance service company.
I have same fridge freezer & luckily a extended warranty, engineer has been out on numerous occasions & the motor is getting freezed up, which is why the noise stops when the door is opened. Get rid of it! No solution to the problem...its a faulty appliance & a well known fault with this model or so I have been told. Good luck.
I fixed my problem with the fan not working in the refrigerator section. It ended up being the fan motor. The way I nailed it down was to temporarily switch the wires to the fan motors in the connector on the circuit card. This electrically powered the freezer fan from the refrigerator side and visa versa. The fan still worked in the freezer side (running of the refrigerator circuit) and was still inop on the refrigerator side proving that there was nothing wrong with the circuit card or possible other factors driving that circuit (other than the fan motor). I ordered and installed a new fan motor (about $50) and now everything works fine. It seems that the original problem caused the circuit card to shut down voltage to the bad fan motor that's why when you checked the voltage from the circuit card, it was nill causing you to falsely believe that it was not the fan motor. Yes, I did a resistance check on the fan motor and it was very close to being the same as the freezer motor (same part number).