Burner comes on for 30 secs or so and shuts off. Ignitor cycles
Ignitor comes on and burner ignites for 30 secs to 1min and then shuts down. Glow ignitor cycles several times but burner does not ignite. Also sound lile slight rattling when ignitor cycles on. This is an older whirlpool gas dryer 5 cycle-3temps, Heavy duty super capacity
Re: burner comes on for 30 secs or so and shuts off. ...
It sounds like the gas valve solenoids are shorting out. there are two coils that operate in tandem to allow gas flow. these coils can eventually overheat and cause the gas not to flow as well have a rattling sound from the plunger inside the coil trying to move inside the weakened coil. the coils can be replaced and will come in a pair with guide pins to help you put them in correctly. one coil will have three wires going to it and the other coil will have two wires going to it. pretty simple fix and should solve the problem
hope this helps....jay
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Ignitors don't "blow flames". But a defective ignitor can glow but not draw enough current to allow the gas valve to open to the burners. Replace the ignitor. It's the "weakest link" and most likely part to wear out through use in the ignition system.
Do you see the actual ignitor glow? You must be saying that you sanded the sensor. The ignitor, after the little inducer fan comes on will begin to glow a bright orange until the burner lights. If the ignitor is broken, you will NOT see a glow, and you may smell a faint smell of gas.
when you say it doesnt want to shut off i'm guessing you mean the fan. the fans run on a timer when the thermostat calls for heat it will come on 90-120 sec.later. turn your t stat down below room temp and it will shut off in 30-60 sec.your ignitor is most likly bad. turn your t stat back up and look at it. it should glow. furnace will try to light 3 times,you may hear the gas flow for 3 sec.during this cycle. if no glow good chance that is your problem and you will need to replace it.be carefull it is very brittle and breaks easy if tapped. be sure to turn the t stat down again or the fan will start running again.
the ignitor should glow bright orange.it sounds like you have a weak ignitor but if the flame lites within 20 to 30 seconds it sounds like it's ok,it could be braking down though when it gets hot,it doesn't matter if it glows,it has to be putting out 3.2 amps,if you have an amp meter with a clamp on it you can read out the amps,if the broiler works ok i would change out the ignitor,then follow the tube down to the bottom and stick a paper clip in the orifice hole where the gas comes out and make sure that's clear,also there's a shutter on the tube to adjust the air flow,see if it's closed,it's usually almost wide open,check the tube to make sure the ignitor didn't burn a hole through it.i've found tubes with holes in them from a lazy ignitor,most of the time if there's a problem it will be the ignitor
The easiest way to check the ignitor is to observe it. Remove the small access panel in front, select a high temperature setting and start the dryer. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow or spark. If you see it glow or spark, then the ignitor is working. If the ignitor did not appear to function and it is the spark type, it may be out of adjustment which generally requires professional service or it may require replacement. If the ignitor is the glow type, you can test it for resistance with a multimeter.
The ignitor has two wires connected to it.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading anywhere between 50 and 600 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinity, the ignitor is definitely bad and will need to be replaced.
(((If the ignitor is optimal, this will confirm a faulty set of coils. replace them all if this is the case))).
AFTER THE BURNER SHUTS DOWN THE 1ST TIME IT SHOULD COME BACK ON WITHIN 1 TO 3 MINUTES. WHEN THE BURNER TRIES TO COME BACK ON YOU'LL HEAR A CLICK AND THE GLOW OF THE IGNITOR SHOULD BE VISIBLE. AFTER 30 TO 60 SECONDS IGNITOR SHOULD FADE AND THE BURNER SHOULD FIRE. IF IGNITOR FADES AND BURNER DOES NOT FIRE YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE BURNER COILS #279834. IF IGNITOR DOES NOT COME ON YOU WILL HAVE A T STAT OR SENSOR ISSUE. SOUNDS LIKE COILS TO ME. HOPE THIS HELPS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTAT ME HUBAPPLIANCE@COMCAST.NET. PLEASE RATE MY RESPONSE.
Yes. Gas ignitors either spark or glow. Find a way to look at the ignitor, even if you have to use a mirror. If it sparks or glows, figure out why the gas isn't getting into contact with the ignitor. If it doesn't spark or glow, the ignitor is probably bad, but the controller might not be sending it electricity (bad controller). This is what electrical meters are for. Checking for voltage at the ignitor will tell you if the controller is telling it to ignite.
more than likely your glow bar ignitor has stopped working or at least pulling enough amps to open the safety valve. The floor of the ovens come out may have a couple screws toward the back. take the floor out if a diffuser is on top of the burner remove it. the glow bar ignitor is mounted on the burner turn the oven on and watch it should glow bright red and in about 30 secs open the gas safety valve. If it does not glow you may want to verify power to the ignitor, more than likely the ignitor is the problem. If it glows but does not open the safety valev still replace the ignitor not pulling the required amps to open the safety valve. just put a little dish soap on the screws to the ignitor to help from srtripping them out