1997 villager quits after riaching runing temp

Could be any number of thing's on the vehicle . When it won't start you need to see what's missing Spark or fuel pressure . Then diagnose the system not function properlly . Lets say the ignition system is the problem , no spark . Could be a bad coil breaking down when it get's hot , or crankshaft position sensor or any sensor for that matter . There are good videos on youtube on finding which system is not working .

No Start Diagnostic Basics EricTheCarGuy

Check Maf sensor and crankcase breather POV valve

Check your fuel pump relays and fuses and make sure they don't have play

take that stinking van back and replace it with a ride you like and tell them what it was doing because that is crazy

First thing i would try is to carry a can of WD-40 or quick start with me and when it quits and won't start, remove air intake hose at throttle body opening, open throttle enough to give a good spray inside throttle body, release throttle, then try to start it . If it starts and runs momentarily, you have a fuel delivery problem. If not you have an ignition problem. Then you can start troubleshooting from there.
Or you can carry something to test for spark. I just find this way easier. Don't know when/if fuel pump has ever been replaced, but not uncommon for them to work when cool and quit pumping when they get warmed up, even though they sound like they are still working. That's where a fuel pressure test would also confirm, keeping in mind pressure may read good when first started but will drop later when warmed up and engine quits.

you didn't say if it was hot on the temp gauge? no matter, it sounds like you have a stuck t-stat. when the engine is cold, a mechanical valve keeps the water from coming out of the engine block until warmed up, then opens and lts the cooler water in. this cools down the engine and the colder temp of the water shuts the valve again. this happens constantly while the engine runs, and if your t-stat is stuck, the engine heats up the water in the block, but with nowhere to go, simply overheats the motor. a good repair book will locate the thermostat housing for you and should you the repair procedure. (i assume you have checked the water in the rad. low water will give you same symptoms). good luck.

it could be your coil. if it is shorting out internally

you have air trapped in the engine. very common. park van uphill, fill radiator & reservoir, turn on heater, leave cap loose. wait for engine to warm up to burp air.
also see

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

It may be the camshaft sensor in the distributor. Sometimes the optical sesor can be cleaned. Most times, need new distributor or reman from ebay.
do not replace the knock sensor, it is never bad. ANd, it is in the middle of the engine. $1000 repair for nothing.

See this ste too.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Charlie. You have replaced the ECM on your van?.
Kedwin,, Your problem is, the computer on that 3.3 L.
Need to be programed with the VIN nember of your car.
The Antitheft System will disable the injectors due a incorrect VIN, Bucause the body computer is not recieve the correct pasword between 5 seconds after start up.
YOU have 2 options. 1 get a ALOHA Smith. some of they have the computer required to program ECMs.

The other option is: Get a new ECM from the dealer, They will program if ask for that.

NOTE:::::: Other way is . Put the body control module with the computer from the same car.

OK... I hope this work for yours.
If NOT letme know I can look for more information.
Thank you.