Question about Samsung TXE2746 27" TV

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SAMSUNG TXE2746 Switch makes click sound and does not switch on

I have a similar power switch problem. I do not have a remote but once I switch it on with my finger by pushing the switch button, it makes a click sound. This sound then continues on and off, on and off and goes on indefinitely.[click, click, click and no sound or pictures come on]. It only stops if I pull off the cable from the wall plug. Is there any solution? Or should this TV be dumped. Was bought in 1997.

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I was thrilled reading our kind Forumite's instruction on how to get my broken Samsung txe2746 wiht the above problem repaired. The cylinder specified located at C858 supposed to be numbered 470 turned out to be the wrong one. The one with that specification is C808 with the number 470, and 25V. Did I misread your instructions or it could be that mine is a different model? Should I go ahead and change the C808 just for the sake of trying. Is this recommended?

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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It's fine to take the capacitor out and test it before replacing it, since that's a few bucks for a replacement there. Clearly from the startup halting like that, one of the circuits fed by the power supply is either shorting it directly or providing a not-ok-to-proceed signal to the supply, which knocks it back a second to try again (to protect the stuff that hasn't failed yet, and prevent a fire!)
Electrolytic caps don't live forever like resistors. They're good candidates to replace, esp. if they look burnt/popped/hideous. The other things that'll keep a CRT from coming up include tube gun problems from overheating (shorts; resistors will overheat, though take care to test temps with resistance and distance please) having enough metal dust on the back outside of tube, which is cured with ammonia wash (compost the rag directly when done) and of course a shorted horizontal or vertical deflection transistor (or its bias circuit.) Scoping out the amps on the flyback or deflection makes for an easy tell there even if the chip package is undamaged.
Failing that just debug the power section of the set by isolating it (at least by shunt resistors) and looking at its signaling and performance.

Posted on Jan 27, 2011

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Hi,

I have fixed this problem many times. To start you must unplug the set and take the back off.
Close to where the AC plug cord goes in next to the relay which is in a small plastic box about 2 inches long and 3/4 inch wide and 2 inches high there is a capacitor which is a cylinder type component that has the location of c858 and it has two connections one positive and one negative. You can see the negative sign on the side of it. It should have the number 470 and 25 V on it too. This part is bad and must be replaced. Unsolder old and solder in new. You can get at Radio Shack for around a dollar. When you put the new one in it must be correct negative and positive as the one took out. Be sure to make good solder connections

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