Question about Maytag Dependable Care LAT9706
The problems persist.
Is my check switch okay? Between the white/green stripe and the redwire, it is 0 ohms when depressed (lid open position). This is what itshould be. However, there is 2000K Ohms between the black wire and thered wire when the white plunger is let out, which should be zero (doorclosed position). Pushing the white plunger in (opening door) does notchange anything.
If the check switch does not have continuity when the door is closed, then why is my fuse blowing?
Is my motor the real issue? How do I test the motor/motor overload protector?
(My lid switch moves freely and the resistance between terminals whenthe white plunger is depressed is 0 ohms and more than 200K ohms whenthe white plunger is let out. I think it is okay)
(Please note that while I was testing the tub for water drainage in thespin cycle, I filled the tub to the top and measured how much time ittook for the tub to empty in the spin cycle. It took more than 2 minsand hardly emptied (there was a sock stuck which has been removed).While this test was going on the motor sort of labored trying to spin atub full of water. It did for 2.5 mins and then stopped which is whenthe fuse blew)
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
this washer has a 2 switch system for making sure the lid is closed. you wont be able to just "bypass" it as they designed it to not allow that. what you need to do is replace the whole switch assembly. it comes with both switches and a fuse all together and that should make your unit run again.
you can change this yourself but be careful to get the wires onto the new assembly n the right places.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;
The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.
Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.
I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079
I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at firstname.lastname@example.org. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich
Posted on Jun 20, 2009
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SOURCE: Maytag Washer lid switch
Ohm out the blue/ blk terminals on the sw (remove wire harnes first and notate wire color connection) with an ohmmeter-- Reading should be zero (closed lid position)
Then ohm the ylw and white sw terminals-- reading should be 0 as well.
If I am not mistaken this sw has a plunger that sticks out, if hte unit goes off balance this could push the plunger in. to reset- pull the plunger out
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Posted on Jun 20, 2009
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