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I need part number & wiring diagram of samsung defrost timer.

The fridge seems not defrosting properly as it builds up ice in the cooling tube compartment down to the drain pipe.

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  • Shane Seaman May 11, 2010

    Can you give more detail as to the type of fridge.

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5 Suggested Answers

SOURCE: Amana ARB2217C Fridge

its under the light bulb assembly in the frigidare compartment

Posted on Dec 29, 2007

  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore C978-66792-1 fridge: defrost ices and stops fan

It should just be your ice maker wires and wouldn't be the issue with this fridge

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: water in freezer compartment

your drain line is clogged

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: bosch classixx frost free fridge freezer

i cannot set the temperature from -12'o to -24'o

Posted on May 28, 2009

  • 245 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer compartment ice build-up

too defrost just open the doors for a day with the unit unplugged. as far as why it is frosting up check door seals make sure they are all good and seal it up well and that should take care of it.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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1 Answer

Not cooling in fridge,fridge temperature in freezer


Self defrost mechanism has a problem. Check the defrost timer and defrost heater element for proper operation. Ice buildup is the culprit.
If you unplug and defrost overnight, replug, it will work fine till the ice builds up again.

Nov 26, 2013 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

My side by side Fridge has been running at 13 degrees for a few days.,the freezer is normal. We noticed some "ice build up , took the cover off and all the elements etc... were iced over, we have...


This is what is happening. All "frost free" refrigerators are not truly frost free. The cooling comparment elements frost up with moisture from the air. Every 6 or 8 hours or so the fridge shuts down. then . small electric heaters fitted into these cooling elements melt the frost away. The water goes down a tube into what is called a drip pan mounted underneath the fridge. If the drain tube clogs with a piece of paper, or food or algae. The water from the frost melting stays in the pan because the drain is clogged. So each time the fridge defrosts, it builds up ICE not frost and eventually it completely clogs with a block of ice.
The other thing that can happen, is that the timer that controls this cycle fails and the heating elements never turn on. The the fridge then clogs with frost. The fridge will clog with frost if any of the following parts fail. The defrost thermostat which opens up the heater circuit when the coils reach
around 40-50 degrees, the defrost heaters mounted in the cooling coils, or the defrost timer fails.
If your fridge works normally after this, then the drain hole was clogged and you unclogged it. If it gets colder and colder again. Then the timer, defrost thermostat, or the defrost heaters have failed.
Hope this helps. You are welcome to write back to me and tell me what is happening with your fridge. I hope this helps, Best Regards, Mark

Dec 28, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi, My fridge ( 420 ltrs) Top Freezer making constant humming noise ( like a dieasl car engine)like the engine keeps running and try to cool the fridge. 1 year old. When I open the freezer or the...


Hi,
The noise is the fan hitting ice build up on the coils... it is no defrosting properly...
Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

Oct 14, 2010 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

My GE GSH25JFTC side by side freezer/refrigerator has ice accumlating in the area around the ice maker both above and below the ice maker and in the door shelves in vicinity of the ice maker. It's three...


DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Sep 11, 2010 | GE GSH25JFT

1 Answer

Refridgerator just stop cooling...it got warm and the ice melted. When I unplug an plug back up it starts cooling again an seems to work fine but as soon as it gets to -4 freezer and -38 it will work for a...


Hi,,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout......

Aug 14, 2010 | Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

French doors with freezer at bottom. Not cooling properly, have on highest number to cool. Freezer seems to be fine


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.



Hope this helpout......


Aug 13, 2010 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Samsung model RB193KASB Fridge seems to be not as


Hello,
Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout...

Jul 11, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Bottom freezer section iced up solid.-- Fan inside bottom section o.k.--- upper section won't cool . Defrost timer runs and seems o.k.---What is the function of the clip-on device(defrost terminator?)in...


DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Feb 19, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My Samsung side by side fridge is not cooling properly. The freezer is fine but the refrigerator does not cool enough. I cleaned it recentley but just wiped it down - nothing odd


If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, ie defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

Aug 11, 2009 | Refrigerators

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