Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer

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I need to replace the coupler on my direct drive whirlpool washer

I am trying to get the motor of to get to the coupler
How do I get it off

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The easy way to get to it is that there are 2 Philips screws on the front or the back of the head take those out flip the head back you will see 2 brass clips stick screwdriver in the front and pop the clips and unclip the lid switch. than grab the lid of the washer and tip it forward. than if you look down you will see the pump take the 2 clips off of the pump and do the same for the motor that is where the drive coupler is located. you will need a 3/4 socket with extension to tap the drive coupler into place then repeat steps to put back together

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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Access to the motor is better from the bottom. Lay the washer on its side.

Posted on Mar 06, 2009

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SOURCE: washer wont agitate. fills, then a faint hum. it

If it stops filling when it is full, doubt if water level switch. Take clear hose off of side of tub and blow into it, if you hear a clicking noise, it is not the water switch. The capacitor can be checked by placing a test cord on both terminals and applying 110 volts for a second to it. Then using screwdriver, short across the two terminals, if it sparks, it is okay. (be careful to hold the screwdriver handle, it packs a pretty good punch). If that those check out, remove the motor and the rubber coupling. Spin the coupling on the transmission with a large socket both ways. One way should make it spin and the other should make it agitate. If it does not agitate doing this, it is the transmission. If it checks out, then probably in the timer. Good luck

Posted on May 05, 2009

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SOURCE: motor overheating after replacing the direct drive coupler

Yes, what has happened is that the coupler has not been fully seated on the gearbox shaft, the motor shaft, or both. you should use a socket and hammer to firmly seat the plastic coupling on each shaft. If the coupling is not properly seated, the washer will work, you will get rotation, but there will be constant back pressure on the motor shaft, pushing it against the rear bearing race and the pump at the rear, the added friction causes heat buildup in the motor and eventual overtemp switch operation. Just solved this tricky problem myself. another clue that the coupler isn't fully flush and seated is the last motor retention strap is very difficult to get on, due to the 1/8-1/4 inch extra length.

Posted on Apr 13, 2010

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1 Answer

Does this washer have a belt?


No it does not it is direct drive. Here is a link that will show you how it works and how to replace the motor coupler ( the piece that usually breaks)

Motor coupler video

Jan 10, 2011 | Whirlpool Estate TAWS750PQ 27-Inch Washer

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Washing Machine Motor Coupling Repair


How do you tell if your washer motor coupler has gone bad? Motor couplers are used on "Whirlpool" direct-drive washing machines. In some Whirlpool or Whirlpool-made washing machines, the motor coupler connects the drive motor to the transmission. It operates under extreme conditions and stress. Mostly during start-up and stopping of the motor. The main symptom of a bad motor coupler in the Whirlpool made washing machines is that there is no agitation or spinning action, along with the sound of the motor running. Since the motor is running, but there is no connection to the transmission, the machine will not agitate or spin the clothes out. The motor will simply run, but nothing else happens. In this case, the coupler is most likely cracked. To replace the coupler in the Whirlpool made washer, you must first unplug the washer, remove the top console by either removing the screws or using a putty knife to unsnap the top clips, rotate the console back, pull the washer front off by tilting back,and set the cabinet aside. Remove the clips holding the pump and motor on. Remove the bolts holding the motor on. Inspect the coupler and replace with a coupler if necessary. Re-assemble the motor and pump assembly. Re-assemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly. Plug in and test by running the washer through it's paces.Here is a video on repairing the motor coupler.

on Oct 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to remove and replace clutch on kenmore washer 110. series direct drive


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Before assuming that the problem is the clutch, I'd check the Motor Coupler first.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Nov 18, 2010 | Kenmore 16812 Washer

1 Answer

Agitator doesnot move, water will go into washer, agitator doesnot spin and water will not go out of washer. can this be repaired? Do I need to replace the washer?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities:


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

If this is a basic top load, direct drive washer, luckily most mechanical parts are relatively easy to access and fix or replace. I'd hold off looking for a new washer until I checked the Lid Switch and Coupler. These are the two parts that tend to break on top load washers.

Aug 22, 2010 | Kenmore 24622 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Motor overheating after replacing the direct drive coupler


Yes, what has happened is that the coupler has not been fully seated on the gearbox shaft, the motor shaft, or both. you should use a socket and hammer to firmly seat the plastic coupling on each shaft. If the coupling is not properly seated, the washer will work, you will get rotation, but there will be constant back pressure on the motor shaft, pushing it against the rear bearing race and the pump at the rear, the added friction causes heat buildup in the motor and eventual overtemp switch operation. Just solved this tricky problem myself. another clue that the coupler isn't fully flush and seated is the last motor retention strap is very difficult to get on, due to the 1/8-1/4 inch extra length.

Mar 01, 2010 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer will fill with water and do nothing else what could be wrong


It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these: Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys

Jan 17, 2010 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

1 Answer

My washing machine doesn't spin any more


If you hear it doing something and im assuming it fills with water ok then I think the coupler on the direct drive has broken.....

Motor coupler
Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Nov 18, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

I HAVE A WHRILPOOL TOP LOADER MODEL # LSQ9564MQ0 , THIS MACHINE WILL NOT AGGITATE OR SPIN OUT, JUST MAKES A LOUD GRINDING NOISE, WHAT IS GOING ON, AND CAN IT BE FIXED OF SHOULD I JUST REPLACE. PLEASE...


Your washer is a basic Whirlpool / Kenmore top load, direct drive, neutral drain machine.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts. Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

See the following Whirlpool PDF on installation and service of these machines.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


Following is the Whirlpool parts list for commercial direct drive washers although the consumer versions are basically the same. See the part number for the motor coupler, a set should cost around $15 at a local washer parts store or on line.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

3978849 Coupling, Motor And Isolation

Oct 13, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Will not agitate or spin


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission as a fail safe device.

If the coupler (a three piece part) is broken or worn, the motor cannot transmit power to the transmission for either agitating or spinning.

Following is a Whirlpool PDF describing the operation and maintenance of top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

This is an ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Follow the directions to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate. You'll see the coupler as a three piece unit.

The two plastic pieces with three prongs each fit on drive shafts on the motor and transmission and the rubber piece with six holes fits between them.

If the coupler is worn or damaged.

This is a relatively easy fix for the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool washers.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


Oct 08, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to replace coupler


Edward You can find complete instructions here: http://www.askgene.com/2007/02/07/whirlpool-washer-direct-drive/how-to-replace-the-motor-drive-coupling-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer/ Gendos...post back

Feb 06, 2007 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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