I have a super II pump for an inground pool. It was leaking so I replaced the seals. Now I want to start up again but I can't turn the plastic lid to open the volute to prime it. I got a plastic wrench that seems to fit but it wont budge. Any tips on loosening the lid? My Model # is K48M2N123 Ser 8K99. Thanks
Open the air relief on the suction side of the pump, take a big pair of channel locks....22" and give her a good nidge... she'll be alright... good idea at that poihnt to take some lubricant and lube the oring or just replace it...
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use a garden hose connected to house supply to fill the housing and pump head , after that Pump should be able to take over and use water pulled from skimmer , if all your joints and seals are good , if it looses prime ,even after resting for a little while , ck all your joints and seals for leaks ,remember not all leaks ,Leak Out some leak In !!
most all pumps need to be primed the first time before use, and every time after a repair !! you fill up the tank with water (about 3 gallons?)first this gives the pump suction it needs to start pumping IF YOU don't prime it it will burn up the shaft seal (in just a few minutes) and it will be slow to start pumping or leak OR not pump at all. if you ran it dry you will need to replace the shaft seal, you can split the pump at the seal plate leave the plumbing portion hooked up and bring the motor att. to the seal plate to your local pool pump motor repair guy and have him replace the shaft seal ..BEST CHOICE $20 and ask him how 2 take better care of it (priceless )..hope this helps ... jay the pump repair guy in longwood fl
1. You only should have one check valve; the one in the water is best, remove the other if you can.
2. Make sure there are no leaks in any of the piping between the water and the pump inlet.
3. Take the pump apart, thoroughly clean the new seal, the two halves of the pump that go under the metal band, the inside of the metal band.
4. Lubricate the new seal, the outer sides of the pump halves where the metal band squeezes together, the inside of the metal band where it contacts the halves and even the screw on the tightening device using petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or equal. Make sure the pump literature does not recommend against whatever you use.
6. Fill the pump with water, open the discharge on top of the pump if possible and prime.
Normally, a pump, even with a long run will prime in 5 minutes or less.
Sounds like you have an air leak. First check your fittings, next carefully run water over the pump seals (avoid getting water on the motor or you'll hurt yourself and the pump if not worse) the pump will prime if the leaking seal is covered with water. Take your time and be careful and it should only be a matter of a loose fitting or simple seal swap.
looking at he face of the impeller turn counter clockwise, with a large set of
CHANNELLOCK 20" Pliers Channel Lock Model 480 cost about $70.00 there is a notch on the back of the motor shaft for ether a 1/2 or 7/16 open end wrench to fit in to hold the rotor from turning.
warning ! these pumps are hard to find parts for so you want to have the right tool so you don't break anything.
your best bet is to bring it to your local pool pump motor repair guy and have him do it, if its just the seal you are trying to replace it should be a $20 job
if'n i was any help vote ... thanks ..jay .. and prime the pump after a repair !
I'm not sure what your humming is much louder than. But if you had a freeze your pump may have froze and you will need to ck for leaks after thawing. You could have cracked your pump or hurt the seals. After you check for this, you can check for a weak start capacitor in your motor, as the cold can affect these also. Good luck.
Your motor is going bad if it get's that hot. It is kicking off when it get's hot enough to the heat switch in the back of the motor. This resets it self and the motor probally comes on again after a few minutes. The wireing in the motor has a small short that will get worse soon enough and may even catch fire if the conditions are right. So you should get a new one and replace your seal kit and "O" rings at the same time. Odds are a small water leak got this started. Good luck
You need a 201 seal for the pump. Most electric motor shops that work on pumps and of course pool store carry these. If you are unfamiliar with how to change the seal, the charges to have it done are usually low. We charge $15 - $30 depending on how much of the pump is brought in and therefore remains to be taken apart to replace the seal. The seal is about a $5 item.
If trying yourself, you will need to completely disassemble the pump, lock the motor shaft at the rear of the unit, spin off the impeller, and replace both halfs of the seal.
If you notice bubbles in the water returning into the pool from the eyeball/discharge, or water in the strainer basket is visibly swirling (bubbles visible) odds are you need you replace the o-ring on the lid of the strainer basket in the front of the pump. This basket may also be clogged with debris, which also effect pressure. Could also be a cracked or warped strainer lid. Should be easy to see when you remove to check o-ring. Once you remove the strainer o-ring make sure you lube it with a good silcone based lube.
You need to change your pump seal. It goes on the shaft of the motor as it enters the rear housing of the pump. If it has been leaking for a while,and started to get really loud you might want to replace the motor while you got it apart.