Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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First off how do you get the front or sides off so you can see inside where the belts are? Then the problem is it won't spin at all and makes a grinding noise like maybe the belt is off or something. I have lost the manuel.

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1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Inspect both halves of the coupling for signs of wear. Replace if necessary (part #285753A).

10. Uninstall the motor mounting plate from the gearcase by removing the two bolts.

11. Remove the agitator by removing the center cap. Locate the center nut under the cap and loosen with a socket and ratchet. Lift both portions of the agitator straight up, exposing the gearcase center shaft. Remove the agitator clip and agitator washer from the shaft. NOTE: If there is a recessed square slot under the agitator cap, use a 3/8 inch to ½ inch socket adapter with extender to remove.

12. Now take the washer and lean it backwards so that you have full access to underside of the washer. Loosen the three bolts holding the gearcase in place. When you get the last bolt, loosen slowly as the gearcase will begin to drop from under the washer. Slide the entire gearcase and shaft out of the washer.

13. Remove the clutch and brake assembly from the top of the gearcase by removing the retaining clip. Do not forget to retain the washer that is under the clutch.

14. Inspect new gearcase assembly. Open the breather hole (covered by a dab of paint) using an awl or similar tool. Install washer on gearcase shaft and install clutch and brake assembly. Slide gearcase shaft up through the agitator shaft from under the washer. Hold in place and get one bolt started. Insert remaining bolts and tighten them all evenly.

15. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

16. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

17. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

18. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

19. Re-install agitator washer and retaining clip on the gearcase drive shaft and then re-install agitator. NOTE: DO NOT over-tighten center nut. You can crack or break the agitator.

20. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

21. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

22. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

23. Reinstall console.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple repair if you follow the instructions step-by-step. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

NOTE: Under Line Item 10. - after you remove the motor mounting plate, make sure you disconnect the wiring harness from the the gearcase housing if it is mounted to it. Otherwise, you may damage the harness when you remove the gearcase assembly. Make sure you re-install the wiring harness in the fashion when repairs are completed.



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Posted on Sep 14, 2010

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you don't go through the back on you dryer style. Here is a list of possibilties that could be making the noise your hearing:
1) Drum rollers - These are located inside the machine on the rear wall and sometimes on the front panel as well. The rollers should be free spinning when you have gained access to them.
2) Idler pulley - This is what keeps tension on the belt and is located inside the machine in the vacinity of the motor, usually directly in front of it. This should spin freely with the belt removed.
3) Blower wheel - This is located inside of the machine on the lower left side. This is connected to the motor and should be easily turned. You'll want to check that this is free of any obstructions
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To access these parts you first need to first lift the top up. This is done by pressing the clips inward. These are located on the left and right side in between the top and front on the dryer. When this is done the top will left up and backwards. Next, on the upper inside there are two screws, usually 5/16" bolts, that will need to removed to take the front off. Now you'll will access to the inside of the dryer. The belt will have to be removed to to take the drum out to test the rollers.

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2) Idler pulley - This is what keeps tension on the belt and is located inside the machine in the vacinity of the motor, usually directly in front of it. This should spin freely with the belt removed.
3) Blower wheel - This is located inside of the machine on the lower left side. This is connected to the motor and should be easily turned. You'll want to check that this is free of any obstructions
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We have the LG Tromm DLE2512W dryer. It was working great until one day it sounded like a big thud, and the drum stopped spinning. We can turn it on and set and start it, but the drum isn't spinning at...


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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/belt-config.JPG

If you hear a loud bang while your dryer is working, and you notice that the
drum has stopped turning, chances are the drivebelt has snapped.
Fortunately, replacing the belt is a fairly straightforward operation that
can be handled with a few simple tools.
First, unplug the dryer. Lift the lint-screen cover and pull out the lint screen
If your dryer has a lint screen on the inside of the door, skip this step.
Then remove the two screws that are under the cover. To unlatch the dryer top,
insert a thin-blade putty knife between the top and front panel,
about 2 1/2 in. in from one corner. Push in on the knife to release the locking
clip, lift the corner, then release the clip on the other side. Swing the top
up and lean it against the wall.
Next, move to the lower toe panel. Slip the putty knife between the lower panel
and the door panel at one side and twist the knife to release the clip
Then release the opposite clip and lift the panel up and off the hinge springs.
To support the dryer drum while the belt is being replaced, place scrap wood
under the front of the drum.
Loosen the two screws at each side of the bottom of the front panel.
Move to the top of the panel and remove the screws from the inside of the
cabinet that hold the front panel to the sides.
Slide the old belt off the drum.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Installing the belt
Lean the front panel out slightly and allow the drum to rest on the scrap wood
support. Drop the new dryer belt between the front panel and the drum, and
loop it over the drum. Then, lift the drum slightly while pushing the front
panel back into position.
Replace the screws at the top inside of the front panel, tighten the lower panel
screws and remove the scrap wood from under the drum. Check to make sure that
the rear drum seal fits properly over the lip on the rear bulkhead.
Position the new belt where the old belt was, with the grooved side of the belt
facing down.
Now, move to the motor area and pull out the old belt. To route the new belt
around the idler and drive pulley, first pass the entire belt, doubled up,
under the idler pulley. Then, push the idler belt toward the motor, slip the
belt around the motor pulley and release the tension on the idler pulley.

Open the dryer door and rotate the drum counterclockwise a few times to make
sure the belt is tracking properly. Lower the top and press down at each
corner to engage the clips. Lift the lint-screen cover, replace the two screws
and reinstall the lint screen. Finally, secure the lower front panel and turn
on the dryer for a test.
This is a FREE answer
Please RATE me

Jan 07, 2011 | LG Dryers

1 Answer

Inside wont spin, it kinda was, but then quit, still heats and all just not spinning


http://www.applianceaid.com/images/belt-config.JPG

If you hear a loud bang while your dryer is working, and you notice that the
drum has stopped turning, chances are the drivebelt has snapped.
Fortunately, replacing the belt is a fairly straightforward operation that
can be handled with a few simple tools.
First, unplug the dryer. Lift the lint-screen cover and pull out the lint screen
If your dryer has a lint screen on the inside of the door, skip this step.
Then remove the two screws that are under the cover. To unlatch the dryer top,
insert a thin-blade putty knife between the top and front panel,
about 2 1/2 in. in from one corner. Push in on the knife to release the locking
clip, lift the corner, then release the clip on the other side. Swing the top
up and lean it against the wall.
Next, move to the lower toe panel. Slip the putty knife between the lower panel
and the door panel at one side and twist the knife to release the clip
Then release the opposite clip and lift the panel up and off the hinge springs.
To support the dryer drum while the belt is being replaced, place scrap wood
under the front of the drum.
Loosen the two screws at each side of the bottom of the front panel.
Move to the top of the panel and remove the screws from the inside of the
cabinet that hold the front panel to the sides.
Slide the old belt off the drum.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Installing the belt
Lean the front panel out slightly and allow the drum to rest on the scrap wood
support. Drop the new dryer belt between the front panel and the drum, and
loop it over the drum. Then, lift the drum slightly while pushing the front
panel back into position.
Replace the screws at the top inside of the front panel, tighten the lower panel
screws and remove the scrap wood from under the drum. Check to make sure that
the rear drum seal fits properly over the lip on the rear bulkhead.
Position the new belt where the old belt was, with the grooved side of the belt
facing down.
Now, move to the motor area and pull out the old belt. To route the new belt
around the idler and drive pulley, first pass the entire belt, doubled up,
under the idler pulley. Then, push the idler belt toward the motor, slip the
belt around the motor pulley and release the tension on the idler pulley.


Open the dryer door and rotate the drum counterclockwise a few times to make
sure the belt is tracking properly. Lower the top and press down at each
corner to engage the clips. Lift the lint-screen cover, replace the two screws
and reinstall the lint screen. Finally, secure the lower front panel and turn
on the dryer for a test.
This is a FREE answer
Please RATE me

Dec 21, 2010 | Roper RES7646KQ Electric Dryer

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