Question about Whirlpool LSN1000LW Top Load Washer
Initially the waher would not pump out all the
water after the spin cycle.After reading that one has to first see if
the pump is pumping out all the water in the tub within 90 secs, I let
the tub fill fully and it hardly let out an inch of water. Water was
splashing over the sides of the top of tub and onto the sides of the
outer tub. Then after 2 mins the whole unit went dead.
I opened up the control panel and saw a fuse back there that had blown. Not knowing the amperage of the fuse, I removed to brown wire to the water level switch and the 2 white wires with green stripes (coming from the check switch and the water valve). These were the wires connecting to the blown fuse. When I taped them together, the circuit breaker for the house blew.
I suspect the high water level and splashing around, made the check switch/water level switch or water valve short out and blew the fuse. The condition has not been recitifed so the fuse blew again.
I fixed the water stagnating in the tub. It was due to a sock between the inner and outer tubs.
But why did the tub lid fuse blow?
Why does it keep blowing?
Why does one have to replace the tub lid switch and the monitor switch?
Can someone explain this to me?
Where the front panel and the top of the machine meet, there is a crack. When using a flashlight, you will see 4 items in this crack. 2 are green 2 are black. The black peices are support studs, ignore them. The green one's are clips that hold the top to the front. Using a putty knife (easier) or a small flat head screw driver (a bit more difficult) push one of the green clips towards the rear of the machine while lifting on the top. Only lift slightly (too far and it will bind on those support studs I told you about) Now press the clip on the other side and lift the top up. Now you should see your tub (from a new perspective) you will see a plastic ring around the top of the tub. Disconnect the green clamp on the hose towards the left rear using a pair of pliers or channel locks. The ring is held down with clips all of the way around the tub. By pressing down over each clip and pulling the lips slightly forward, you can remove the top ring. The rest is the easiest part. In the center of the basket, there is a small cap. Rremove this with a small flat head screwdriver. Remove the bolt that is underneath the cap. Now lift the whole basket out. If your small items get too far (ie, the pump), remove the back panel. On the left hand side you will see a small black hose towards the botom. this connects to the pump. Forign objects can ldge in here keeping it from draining also. If you disconnect the hoses, have something handy for all of the water to go into (large wet vac is usually the best). Drop the 3 #20 torx screws and the pump will come down and you can remove the obstructions.
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
You said,washer is full of water and will not spin. You hear the lid switch
clicking. When you start it on spin cycle and hear a hum, the tub moves a
couple of inches and then stops...shortly after it shuts off.
Some reasons this may happen
Washer won’t drain or spinn
1. Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of the drain hose
more than 72 inches (183 cm) above the floor?
2. Is the lid open? ............Also the lid switch can be faulty!!
The lid must be closed during operation.
3. Is there excessive sudsing?
Always measure detergent. Follow manufacturer’s directions.
4 If you have very soft water, you might need to use less
Sounds to me like the lid switch can be faulty!!Then it acts like the lid is open.
Posted on Oct 14, 2008
If it stops filling when it is full, doubt if water level switch. Take clear hose off of side of tub and blow into it, if you hear a clicking noise, it is not the water switch. The capacitor can be checked by placing a test cord on both terminals and applying 110 volts for a second to it. Then using screwdriver, short across the two terminals, if it sparks, it is okay. (be careful to hold the screwdriver handle, it packs a pretty good punch). If that those check out, remove the motor and the rubber coupling. Spin the coupling on the transmission with a large socket both ways. One way should make it spin and the other should make it agitate. If it does not agitate doing this, it is the transmission. If it checks out, then probably in the timer. Good luck
Posted on May 05, 2009
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