Question about Rival CZF530 Deep Fryer

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Came on, started to heat oil, then quit working. AC wire is good and slide in underneath shows good continuity. cannot find reset switch referred to in operators manual control panel seems to be fault location. just got as gift. no box. noone around here sells this model.

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  • Anonymous Apr 19, 2009

    how do i get a new one

  • cmwalkey Apr 28, 2009

    I had the same thing happen to me last night. Any advice?

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  • 173 Answers

The reset switch is a miss print in the manual. call this number 1-800-557-4825 they will replace it for free if it is still under warranty

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

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My GE oven JTP14 is not heating. Oven temp shows 100F, but elements not heating. The top element works when switched to broil.


It is a good chance the bake heating element is bad. they can look fine and be bad. usually they are very easy to replace. Just make sure the power is off to the oven before attempting to remove the element. There is usually enough lead wire to be able to pull the element out from the front and disconnect the wires. If it has continuity the element is most likely good if not replace the element. If the element has continuity the problem is most likely in the control or wires from the control to the element..

Nov 19, 2013 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Techko shredder model #SH4205PD. The shredder stopped working. After unpluggung it and sliding the switch back and forth a couple of times it worked. Now it has quit working again. what coulf be the...


The micro switch referred to is to triggers from the presence of a piece of paper in the slot when on 'Automatic'. If this is stuck in the closed position it will easily be verified by placing a piece of paper in the accepting slot on the top of the machine. If it turns on it is stuck in the closed position. These shredders obviously get quite dirty and may simply need cleaning. Be Very Careful when working on any shredder! Also. the slide switch while basic in design has a number of wires on 8 poles and could also be the problem. As well if you these machines are protected by a thermal cut-off circuit if you overworked it give it sufficient time to cool down and reset. These are the most probably things to look at however, more in depth Dx may be necessary.
Good luck.

Mar 07, 2011 | Techko Office Equipment & Supplies

3 Answers

Onan generator emerald III genset. I push the start button and the generator comes on as if it has started, as soon as I let the button go, it shuts down.


Here are the most common reasons for your condition.

CHECK IF ENGINE KEEPS RUNNING The most common complaint is that the engine starts but will not keep running when the START switch is released. This happens because the control board will not allow the engine to continue running if the generator is not producing voltage or if the oil pressure signal is not present. See CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING on the Troubleshooting Chart for your model. If the engine will not keep running, do the following:
A1. Generator AC Output Check the generator AC output voltage as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "B1-B2 Volts" or "L1 AC Volts" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need this AC voltage to keep running. Read between the points shown on the Troubleshooting Chart. If the AC voltage readings are good, proceed to "B" below.
A2. Field Flash If there is no AC, check for 10-12 VDC at the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board during cranking. If the field flash voltage is not present, the control board is defective. If the field flash voltage is present, the wiring or regulator may be defective. To eliminate the wiring, check continuity between the FIELD FLASH pin of the control board and pin 7 of the regulator. If the continuity is good, either the regulator or the field circuit (rotor and brushes) may be the problem.
A3 Field Circuit Check the field circuit by unplugging the regulator and measuring the resistance between pins 9 and 10 of the regulator’s mating plug. This reading should be 22 to 28 ohms. If this reading is too high, check the brushes and/or clean the slip rings (use the Slick Stick, or a similar tool). If this reading is too low, there may be a short in the rotor. Also, check the resistance from pins 9 and 10 to ground. This reading should be very high or infinity. If not, there is likely a ground in the rotor. If these readings are all good, the regulator is likely defective.
3
A4 External Excitation To confirm that the regulator is defective, turn off the generator’s AC circuit breaker(s), reconnect the regulator and apply 12 volts through a diode to pin 9 of the regulator plug (see illustration) while attempting to start the engine. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt this without the diode. If you do, there will be fireworks! Remove the 12 volts within 1-2 seconds after the engine starts. If the genset now continues to run and produces normal AC voltage, the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If the genset does not continue to run but produces about 40% of normal AC voltage, again the generator is OK and the regulator is defective. If no AC voltage is produced, the generator may have a problem that is beyond the scope of this guide. Re-check all wiring for security and signs of damage. It may be necessary to take the unit to a qualified repair shop.
B. Check the oil pressure switch as soon as the engine starts. Models showing "LOP to GND" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need the oil pressure switch to be closed to ground when running. If the voltage on the LOL/LOP SW pin of the control does not go to near zero, the switch is not closing. These switches sometimes stick open if the generator has not been used or exercised often enough. Multiple start/stop cycles and/or tapping on the oil pressure switch will sometimes fix it. It may be necessary to temporarily jumper the switch to ground to keep the engine running. This can be done at the switch or at the OIL LOL/LOP SW pin on the control board. Models showing "LOP Open" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING have electronic governors and require the low oil pressure switch to be closed at starting but open during running. When the switch opens, the governor module places a ground on the oil pressure input of the control board (P1-5). It is OK to temporarily ground P1-5 on this model to keep the engine running. NOTE: See chart for oil pressure and oil level switch locations.
C. If there is AC voltage present on B1-B2 or L1 AC, as applicable, and the correct oil pressure/level signal is present at the OIL LOL/LOP SW input of the control board, and the engine will not keep running, the control board is defective.

This should help you get it going.

Kelly

Mar 08, 2010 | Watts Onan Portable Generator - 5000 ,...

1 Answer

How do i troubleshoot my kenmore model 110 electric dryer. it does not heat while it tumbles. How do I know for sure that it is the heating element.


ok first unplug dryer on the side of the heating element housing you will see the high limit switch black plastic with a sticker and a metal nose pull the 2 wires off check for continuity with ohm meter should be closed if it reads closed put wires back. Now look for a white ceramic rectangle piece it is a thermal fuse pull the wires and chech continuity if it shows closed it also is good. if either of these show open they need replaced. Now if both showed closed unplug wires from heating element check continuity should read continuity. if open element is broken. Now assuming this all shows good. Then it could be the timer or the centrifical switch on end of motor.

Jan 08, 2010 | Kenmore 84832 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Heat will not stay on


Top ten problems:
1) Dead:
If a dryer is not working at all thats not good! But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet. It may be something very simple like a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator, in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time, also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. The fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down. 2) Runs but drum dont turn:
Usually this means the belt is broken,the belt may have just been old and worn out and it was time to replace it,or perhaps the wheels locked up or the idler and caused the belt to break. Look around for stiff wheels, bad bearings, glides and idlers. Its a good idea to oil the rollers with some temp resistant oil such as zoom oil. Dont use WD40 as this stuff is highly flamable and may cause a fire.
3) Runs but dont heat:
Ok maybe the heating element got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it may not be the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poormans meter. You can make your own poormans meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, thats right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lites up you have a circuit! You now have a poormans meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the little black thingies attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poormans meter) If you come across any little thingie near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, well that a sensor, a safety (Now so as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thingie you check) where was I? oh yeah.It safe guards you from having to call 911. These things blow because of lint and too many clothes or blocked vent going out the house or all of the above.
4) Runs but takes a long time to dry the clothes:
Sometimes blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them or you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel, its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half *** work and take fifty forevers to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!
5) Squeals,Scrubs,Squeeks:
All dryers have to have a way of allowing the tumbler (thats the thang you put the clothes in) to turn freely, not all of them are the same tho,some use bearings, some use slides,others use rollers. Over time these rollers will need to be oiled,the slides will get thin and start metal to metal contact causing a noise, The rear bearings will then start to make their way to china and cause the tumbler to rub into the heating element and OUCH! These things will cause the motor to prematurely DIE! Its best to examine the dryers, rollers, and slides when you first hear the noise, but who does?
6) Runs and never stops:
In all probability this may well be the timer motor has quit,and thus the timer needs replacing right? Maybe, but you need to first check to see if your dryer has a moisture sensing system, If the sensor board contacts get corroded or goes caput, then the dryer wont know when to advance and shut off in newer models!
7) Runs for a few minutes then quits:
This is probably the motor going bad. The sensors wont cause this to happen. The start switch either, replacing all the sensors in the world wont make the motor be good again. But their is something you can do to try and make the motor last a while longer,their isn't any holes to oil the dryer motor so you must make some,using a 1/8th inch drill bit make a hole in either end of the motor where the bearings are (taking care not to hit the shaft), then add some hi temp oil such as zoom-oil, (dont use WD-40) and work the motor free as you can by hand. If this frees up the motor it may go a while longer. Also oil the rollers and check the slides to make sure they are not pinching and stalling the motor. If the motor can't reach top speed it will get hot,overload and stop.
8) Runs only if you hold the button down:
this is the motor trying to get up to top speed but it cant for some reason do it, some models will not run unless the button is pressed if the belt is broken (also,see above). Some folks try and trick the dryer into staying on by lodging something in between the switch and letting it dry, but the sad reality is the motor is probably shot and needs to be replaced. The switch itself is not the fault, all it does is start the motor up and then the secondary windings in it take over, if the motor is dragging it will not switch over to the run mode, it soon will die anyway.
9) Runs but KEEPS blowing fuse:
Almost all the time this is because of a heavy lint problem some where in the housing of the lint trap. Keeping the lint filter housing clean will stop the fuses from blowing. THIS MEAN REMOVING THE HOUSING AND WASHING IT OUT THROUGHLY!
10) Runs beautiful at repair shop, dead at home:
This an electrical problem usually caused by a bad breaker or a bad receptacle where the cord is plugged in. In fact bad breakers can cause you to have fits trying to figure out why the dryer wont work. If the dryer breaker is over 20 years old it may need replacing. General Electric dryer repair pix Kenmore.Estate/Roper/Whirlpool repair pix Frigidaire/Westinghouse/Gibson/Kelvinator repair pix Maytag/Admiral/Crosley/MonkeyWards dryer repair pix

Sep 03, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Need to know which terminals run what


Had similar problem, continuous fan, turn off power, then won't start up. Replaced thermostat, no change. The main controller board in the furnace went bad. What was weird was that it happened in the summer, while the heat was turned off. One day I noticed that the fan was running. The thermostat was in the off position, and I had to shut off power to the furnace to make it stop. I forgot about it till heating season came along and it wouldn't start up. The preliminary blower would start, the gas would click on, it would light, then quit. After tracing and checking the various safety switches, etc. it became apparrent the main board was bad. I found one on ebay, replaced it, [a simple job, unplug, a few screws, replug] and it's been working fine..good luck, John

Nov 07, 2008 | Honeywell Focus 6300B 5-2 Days...

1 Answer

High Pressure cutoff


YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,

Oct 26, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Blower motor for heat and ac would only come on when I messed with the tilt wheel. Now it wont work at all.


Try the ignition switch, dodge has them on backorder so there is a problem that just has not got big enough to recall. The switch is only $14.30 unless you have a V10. Mine started off as the turnsignals quit working unless you moved the tilt steering and the the heater would only work in the tilt up position.

Sep 29, 2008 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

Slide projector won't stop auto-advancing


The problem is "continuous cycle", a fairly simple adjustment to the cycle switch lever. Remove the lamp module & unplug the projector. Turn it upside down. Remove the 6 T-15 TORX screws from the bottom cover. The lever is a "J" shaped wire near the center of the projector. Refer to the attached diagram for help locating. You will have to carefully(!) bend the wire down - a very little at a time. After each bend, plug the projector in and cycle it a few times. If it continues to cycle, shut it off - unplug it - and bend a little more (too much is bad: the wire can break or "trap" the cycle mechanism. You want to get it in the center of the pad, as the picture illustrates. Good Luck !!
jauburn.gif

Sep 12, 2008 | Kodak Carousel 4600 Slide Projector

2 Answers

Lakewook oil filled radiator heater


Here is your problem and yes it can be fixed.

More than likely your thermal cutoff tripped because your heater got too hot.

Solution:
1. Unplug unit.
2. remove front support feet and screw underneath face plate will slide off.
3. You will see the heating element, a white wire is coming out of it. There is a white sleeve on the wire tucked up into the element. Pull the wire out and slide sleeve off to expose the thermal switch labeled (S.W.C. sw-120t ect.) You can google it to learn more about the cutoff. If you know how you can test the cutoff with a ammeter or voltmeter, If you don't google how to test electrical systems. Remember "first do no harm"
4.
a. If you can replace the cutoff do so (this is the recommended way)
b. If you don't want to replace it cut the cutoff out and solder the wires back together. (be warned that this will bypass the safety system) If you do this be careful to not leave your radiator unattended.
5. After soldering the wire, taping it will electrical tape. Replace face plate from step 1 and 2 and your heater will work.
P.s. If your heater is still under warranty just contact lakewood.

Jan 20, 2008 | Lakewood (5500) Oil Filled Radiator Heater

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