Freezeless yard hydrant constantly drains is there any adjustment
Thought I had a leak ground was wet around hydrant, dug a hole to see if line was cracked or hydrant busted and found nothing, turned well pump on and found that the weep hole at the bottom of hydrant keeps draining, is there an adjustment that I can make without changing entire hydrant?
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Re: Freezeless yard hydrant constantly drains is there...
Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.
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Pool liner has a hole in it....you keep adding water far too many times a week running up your water bills far to high....you call a pool guy and he recommends a "Diver" to call, when you call the diver you fall through the floor when he tells you the initial cost no matter whether he finds the leak or not.
This is what i have learned from the experts....had a pool diver come over and all he did was 'Nothing"...he charged me $400.00 took out and resealed my lights...broke my brick stones around the pool in various places due to his removal of the air tanks, talked a good line of balogna, took my check and left....left me $400.00 lighter in my wallet and no better off then I was before concerning my pool liner leak, he even told me after he came back to find it three times again that the leak was all in my mind and that the dropping of the water level was due to evaporation... this is all good fior someone who is new to a pool...but I have had this inground pool for 10 years prior to him telling me he usually always finds the leaks....he did not and tried to cover his inadequecies with a ration of bull stories...I was adding at least 2-3 hundred gallons of water everyday whether it was hot out or cold out, and this only started happening after about 10 years of owning the pool, in this case it didnot pay to have someone dive the pool because when you can see a real strong discoloration in your liner and the water level starts to drop all of a sudden every other day to at least 1/2-1.0 inches it is time to replace the liner.
If you have a newer then 8-10 year old liner by all means have it tested before you replace it, a cheap and inexpensive way to do this is to start at some point... I would first buy a $4.00 rubber plug to plug up the bottom drain....see if the water level drops...if it does problem is someplace else if it stops dropping the prblem is in the drain lines and that can be an expensive fix for an inground pool short of just leaving it plugged and never using the bottom drain feature again.
If the drain plugging doesn't fix the problem try blocking off the lines with plugs one at a time until you find the level stops dropping indicating which line is culprit, including the skimmers and please be sure you leave the filter off while doing these tests.
If none of the above finds the leaks get in the pool and being very still discharge a small puff of red food coloring under water around the light lense frames...trying to see if it gets sucked into a leaking area, also around the stair case if so equipped doing the same thing with the dye around the seams etc.
You may even find the filter is leaking at a joint causing the leak, or like i once found.... little under ground critters ate my skimmer lines... they punched pin holes into the rubber buried lines with there teeth...they were small moles, nocturnal like rodents that burrow under ground causing havoc on anything that is buried beneath the surface....I found this problem easily...the ground all of a sudden became wet and damp and eventually started to pool up with water for no apparnt reason...when I dug into the water pool I found a little gusher of water coming from the lines, these critters ate into the lines...had to cut them and couple them with a sleeve for the fix.
Yes you can, just don't pull them out of the ground, dig around them and deep enough to keep most of the roots intact. Dig the holes where you want to replant them first before digging the yuccas out!!! Once you have your plant dug out replant it in the new hole as soon as possible, use some good potting soil to fill around it and water it.. Yuccas are very tough plants so you should be OK.
Loosen the packing nut at the bottom of that rod that goes into the pipe/handle. Go to an autoparts store and buy a slide hammer. Unhook the handle from the rod and connect the slide hammer using any bolts etc that you have. Use the slide hammer straight up to free the rod. Tighten the packing nut back down to stop leaks, or DIG the whole thing up.
Internally there is a long stem that operates a lever valve which is under ground. Which opens & closes as you pull open the handle, and push to close the handle.
The connection at that Rodney some sort, either at the valve or the handle has broke.
it might be able to be located? For repair, if not, it might be time to spend another $50 - $125 or so for another one. There are so many varieties and qualities. I personally would try for the repair, as the repair kits are FAR less expensive. You just have to dig it up and remove it. Then once repaired, reinstall. Just remember: Turn the Main Off.
here is an example of what a repair kit looks like...
check the rubber seal that line around the trunk. and check to see if you have a drain hole on the outer side of rubber seal if so check for blockage, also the rubber is removable look to see if there is any rust preventing the rubber seal from sitting on lip snug.
Make sure the bulb is correctly seated in the housing. I had the same problem with mine and it turns out the previous owner didn't seat the H3 bulb correctly so it wasn't lined up 100% so it wasn't getting aimed correctly within the projector.,,
Norm, I expect you will find a one inch or three quarter inch pvc line running from the meter or pump to your house. If you dig fie feet fore and aft of the affected area you should have enough flexibility in the lines to make the repairs. Yoou will probably nee two to three slip by slip couplings and a tee and elbow of the appropriate size and a short length of pipe. It really depends on where the break is but more then likely it has occurred just behind the hub of the tee. You can possibly gain enough flexion in the lines to reduce parts cost but remember putting something in a state of stress already will greatly increase the possibility for future failure in the area again. Below is a picture of what I think you will find aand how I the repair will look.