Freezeless yard hydrant constantly drains is there any adjustment
Thought I had a leak ground was wet around hydrant, dug a hole to see if line was cracked or hydrant busted and found nothing, turned well pump on and found that the weep hole at the bottom of hydrant keeps draining, is there an adjustment that I can make without changing entire hydrant?
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Re: Freezeless yard hydrant constantly drains is there...
Bear with me. The hole is not a weep hole, but a drain. When you shut the valve off, the water in the pipe should drain out this hole so the pipe doesn't freeze. When you lift the handle the rod in the center of the pipe raises a hard rubber bulb that lets the water flow and covers the drain hole so it doesn't run water all the time. To service the valve shut the water off, take the handle pivot bolt out. Loosen the packing nut in the center over the pipe, screw it out, lift the guts, - handle, rod and nut, out of the pipe, now you can see the rubber bulb. Screw it off and go to a good plumbing shop or plumbing supply. Replace the bulb and put it back together. The nut in the center tightens a packing to keep water from leaking around the rod. Too tight and it is too stiff. Too loose and it will leak. Also, where the center rod meets the handle there is an adjustment that allows you to lengthen the rod a little so the bulb is pushed down a little more. Maybe this is all you need. Anyway, you just got the whole load of hay. You can also screw the top part off the pipe and you don't have to disassemble the head. Put gravel around the bottom so when the pipe drains the water can get out. Don't leave a hose connected when it needs to drain.
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A picture, model, or brand of the type of faucet you have will be helpful as there are only three types of faucets. One hole, two hole, and three hole faucets. The one hole ones have two types: a single hot or cold, or a mixer valve to combine hot and cold into a single faucet. Each have a surface mount or wall mount version.
They all follow the same similar installation method. Turn off water supply. Unscrew supply lines from supply to underside of the faucet. a Plumber's wrench is needed or a spanning crescent wrench to remove the supply lines.
-Unscrew whole assemble from the sink.
-insert new one into the same hole as old one.
-from underneath, install the new faucet using the supplied hardware.
-Use plumbers tape (Teflon tape). It's often a white or pink silicon tape around the threads prior to screwing the supply lines back in. Re-connect the supply line.
-Open hot water faucet to maximum. Slowly turn on the water supply. Watch for leaks and drips. If any close the water supply and undo the supply leads and apply more Teflon tape.
- to apply tape. Start at the end and pull tightly, wind the tape into the threads in the direction of the turn. Do not wind in opposite direction.
-Try to turn on water again, turn slowly until it is at maximum, watch for leaks and drips.
-now slowly close the faucet and continue watching for leaks and drops.
If the faucet is fully closed and there is no leaks, you've done a good job... basic plumbing 101.
Now if your pipes are solder types and not screwed in supply line, and you're not confident with a torch or have little experience, ask for help from a friend who has some torch knowledge or hire a plumber. It is simple to do but requires a lot more steps than simply screwing in and unscrewing supply lines.
If this was a totally new installation, there is debris from the water lines. If you disassemble the unit, just crack the 2 supply lines just enough to get water flowing with valves removed, it should clear the debris in a few seconds. You may want to close the sink drain in the event any small parts dislodge. If it is a chunk of teflon tape, or small streamer it can get caught inside the stem.
Then just inspect each stem closely for damage or debris that has hooked a seal and remove it or repair it as needed and reinstall.
They are factory tested so any leaks are the result of debrs from your plumbing lines. It is a common occurance. It is not always possible to "police" every bit of plastic or copper that may be created in the process of a faucet installation.
The first thing I would do is to locate source of the leak. Look carefully at faucet when it is on and see if you have any water leaking from areator and running back down the underside of spout and leaking around base of faucet, also see if you have any leaks around handle. If the leak is from the areator you can just replace it and not have to remove the faucet. when you check under sink on faucet supply lines make sure they aren't leaking at that point. I would use paper towels or rags to wipe everything dry under faucet and let it set for 1/2 hour then check again. If it.s still dry run some water and use both hot and cold water seperatly,checking underside in between. If you determine that leak is coming from top side and leaking thru. Shut off water supply valves if available if not shut off supply to house, make sure water is off before proceeding. Disconnect supply lines from faucet,Remove retaing nuts on either side of base,and remove washers. Remove faucet and check for any obvious faults. If you think it was leaking around base get a small tub of plumbers putty. Most hardware stores stock it. Remove a golf ball sized portion or larger and knead in your hands until it is warm and pliable. Press into place in faucet base. Continue doing this until it's full. Reinstall plastic or rubber base gasket and put faucet back in place Put washers and retaing nuts back on a tighten till snug. Center faucet where you want it and tighten securely. Scrape off excess putty with knife point and wipe with paper towels till clean. Hook up supply lines and turn water back on. Check for leaks and good luck. Thank you
was the base installed under the faucet..is there a single hole in granite...faucets usually come with a long base to cover the holes in sink..or with one round ring for granite installation..which the faucet should be mounted on..
If you go to any hardware store they sell exactly what you are talking about. It is called plumbers putty. Super easy to use, you just pull some out of the container, roll it up so it stretches out into a long tube with your hands (kind of like when we used to do in kindergarten with playdough. Once you have a long strip wrap it around the sink bowl pull off the excess and tighten the nut on under the sink. You will have some of it squish out on the edge that you can pull off with your hands take a razor blade and you can clean it up to where you can't see any sealant at all.
If it is running constant, Check the toilet(s) flappers in the tank(s). If warer is leaking in the wall, You would know it, trust me.. To ck the house, Turn off the water to the house and then go ck the meter. Walk the yard and around the house looking for water perking out of the ground.Don't turn the water off at the meter. There should be a valve at the point the pipes enter the house or foudation.Good Luck_Ned_
hello , usually there will be water supply lines coming in from behind the wall area and if it isnt leaking at the supply valve it self then you may need to open up the wall area behind the sink and find out what is leaking it depends on what type of pipe is used most likely you have cooper tubing and sometimes these tubes after a while may leak or form small holes or it may be a leak at a soldered joint remeber there are 2 lines one for hot one for cold and you can turn the off by shuting off your water at the main valve then repair the leaking area.